Clutch rattle driving me NUTS!!!

[RollinTurbo]

2018 Btx SE

Does anyone else get super agitated with the clutch rattle in this thing.... I'm in love with sled But damn!

I have looked into it and it appears the 2018 "update" included longer spacers and loose rollers in primary, I assume this is intentional to rattle rollers and keep them rolling

But I can't stand this rattle... most prevalent at idle - mid throttle range while riding, Yami dealer said I could have the spacers shaved down so the bolt can be seated against clutch vs. loose and rattling but this may effect the rollers im not sure

Anyone fixed this issue.... I've tried rubber o-rings and such with nothing working yet!

Cross posted in trail for more help

 

[vector boy]

2018 Btx SE

Does anyone else get super agitated with the clutch rattle in this thing.... I'm in love with sled But damn!

I have looked into it and it appears the 2018 "update" included longer spacers and loose rollers in primary, I assume this is intentional to rattle rollers and keep them rolling

But I can't stand this rattle... most prevalent at idle - mid throttle range while riding, Yami dealer said I could have the spacers shaved down so the bolt can be seated against clutch vs. loose and rattling but this may effect the rollers im not sure

Anyone fixed this issue.... I've tried rubber o-rings and such with nothing working yet!

Cross posted in trail for more help

Just hold the throttle wide open and don’t stop riding. Problem solved!

But in all seriousness, in order for your clutch to work properly, chances of changing anything to get rid of the rattle is slim to none.

 

[RollinTurbo]

The more I learn about the clutch and look at it (Havnt taken it off and apart yet) but I am finding your probly right If the clutch was setup not to rattle it prob wouldn't work as well...

I'm gonna leave it and run the TD 265 kit next year to drown the noise!

 

[74Nitro]

2018 Btx SE

Does anyone else get super agitated with the clutch rattle in this thing.... I'm in love with sled But damn!

I have looked into it and it appears the 2018 "update" included longer spacers and loose rollers in primary, I assume this is intentional to rattle rollers and keep them rolling

But I can't stand this rattle... most prevalent at idle - mid throttle range while riding, Yami dealer said I could have the spacers shaved down so the bolt can be seated against clutch vs. loose and rattling but this may effect the rollers im not sure

Anyone fixed this issue.... I've tried rubber o-rings and such with nothing working yet!

Cross posted in trail for more help

Much of the noise is from any clearance between the spider buttons, and it doesn't take much. Something I m going to try on mine is put a shim behind the button. These shims are available from Polaris, and I are available as thin as .002 of an inch.

 

[lund]

I'm surprise from a Yamaha forum the lack of good info here or on anything on this forum.
Anyhow the rattle your hearing is a Yamaha trait.
Nytro's do it, Viper's do it and yes the Side winder will do it.
Here is WHY;
The 4 stroke cranks all run on a BABBITT bearing, this style bearing work's perfect for its intent, the crank BUT cannot handle the loads applied by the clutch system that is required on a snowmobile.
So what to do, simple Yamaha incorporate's a STUB shaft that the clutch slips on to, the stub shaft is SPLINED with the crank shaft. The stub shaft uses BALL bearings to support the loads of the clutches.
The rattle you hear is the play between the stub shaft and the crank shaft....the SPLINES.
The noise can be eliminated virtually 100% by pulling the stub shaft out and using 640 green loctite with a loctite primer. BUT it will return after a few hundred miles, it is not a permanent fix.
The rattle is inherited, nature of the beast.

No clutch issues there.

 

[74Nitro]

I'm surprise from a Yamaha forum the lack of good info here or on anything on this forum.
Anyhow the rattle your hearing is a Yamaha trait.
Nytro's do it, Viper's do it and yes the Side winder will do it.
Here is WHY;
The 4 stroke cranks all run on a BABBITT bearing, this style bearing work's perfect for its intent, the crank BUT cannot handle the loads applied by the clutch system that is required on a snowmobile.
So what to do, simple Yamaha incorporate's a STUB shaft that the clutch slips on to, the stub shaft is SPLINED with the crank shaft. The stub shaft uses BALL bearings to support the loads of the clutches.
The rattle you hear is the play between the stub shaft and the crank shaft....the SPLINES.
The noise can be eliminated virtually 100% by pulling the stub shaft out and using 640 green loctite with a loctite primer. BUT it will return after a few hundred miles, it is not a permanent fix.
The rattle is inherited, nature of the beast.

No clutch issues there.

The splines are only part of it. I've shims dozens of the clutches over the years, and the customers said the noise was greatly reduced. If it was just the splines, Yamaha would never have came out with the update 0-ring spider kit in 2006

 

[Snowaddict]

I'm surprise from a Yamaha forum the lack of good info here or on anything on this forum.

You cannot be serious.

 

[lund]

You cannot be serious.

Not directed to you personally, so please don't take it that way but YES i'm very serious.
This guy posted Febuary 22 and yet no one on this forum could give him a good straight technical answer of what going on and be able to support it.
OHH, its the clutch shims, fair enough, why do they all doit?
Prove it to your self, do the clutch shims and post back your results. Then do the fix i suggest and post back...100% noise gone.

 

[Snowaddict]

Not directed to you personally, so please don't take it that way but YES i'm very serious.
This guy posted Febuary 22 and yet no one on this forum could give him a good straight technical answer of what going on and be able to support it.
OHH, its the clutch shims, fair enough, why do they all doit?
Prove it to your self, do the clutch shims and post back your results. Then do the fix i suggest and post back...100% noise gone.

This entire website (TY) has more info than most of the other sledding websites combined. Not to mention, a lot of friendly members. As for this specific topic, it has been discussed pretty heavily. A simple search is all it takes. I would suggest the Sidewinder trail section for most general sidewinder info, as that probably gets the most traffic. The OP's question isn't mountain model specific. So, that's a good place to look. Also, this is the time of year where traffic on the site in general is dying down somewhat due to most people's season coming to an end. Thanks for sticking around though, and your input is appreciated.

 

[74Nitro]

I can't speak on behalf of the 998 turbo, but I installed a Power Bloc 80 on my Vector, which has no traditional fly weights, rollers or pins, and the rattle is still there. It sounds exactly like the stock clutch did. The rattle comes from the splines hammering.

I've lived with it for 10 years.

While that clutch doesn't have a spider, there is still moving parts in that clutch that mimic the spider noise.

 

[1nc 2000]

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/official-clutch-rattle-removal-thread-w-pics.114990/

 

[Redbeard]

While that clutch doesn't have a spider, there is still moving parts in that clutch that mimic the spider noise.

That is incorrect. Below are three videos of my 3 cyl Vector running with and without a PB 80 clutch, which has no traditional flyweights, rollers, pins or spider.

Video #1 - Sled is running with the complete Power Bloc assembly. The rattle is obvious and sounds just like it did with the Yamaha clutch.

Video #2 - Sled is running with ALL internal clutch components removed. There is absolutely nothing left on the remaining fixed sheave to rattle, but the rattle we all hear is still there. This tells me the rattle is coming from somewhere else other than internal clutch components, regardless of the clutch being used.

Video #3 - This video is with all clutch components removed from the stub shaft. While not as pronounced, the rattle is still there.

I feel this proves the rattle originates from the stub shaft assembly. It's not from a stock Yamaha clutch, an aftermarket clutch, or any of the internal components. The only way to fix it, is to Loc-tite the splines. Unfortunately, reports claim the Loc-tite is only a temporary fix.

As mentioned before, I cannot comment on the 998 turbo, as I have no experience with it. If the 998 is in fact built with a stub shaft assembly, like the older 973 & 1049, then I'm afraid there's nothing that came be done for the rattle. It's just the nature of these engines. Yamaha engineers designed this feature for a reason. Is it noisy? Yes! But this has been a rock solid, reliable engine! It still runs like new!

 

[yamadoo]

Agree with Red Beard, I have 4 3 cylinder 1049s and the one with the most miles works great and sounds awful at idle, rattling is totally gone underway.
So I rarely let it idle except to warm up

 

[74Nitro]

That is incorrect. Below are two videos of my 3 cyl Vector running with a PB 80 clutch, which has no traditional flyweights, rollers, pins or spider.

Video #1 , sled is running with the complete Power Bloc assembly. It sounds just like stock.

Video #2, sled is running with ALL internal clutch components removed. There is absolutely nothing left on the remaining fixed sheave to rattle, but the rattle we all hear is still there.

You guys form your own opinion, but I feel this proves the rattle originates from the stub shaft assembly. It's not from a stock Yamaha clutch, an aftermarket clutch, or any of the internal components. The only way to fix it, is to Loc-tite the splines. Unfortunately, reports claim the Loc-tite is only a temporary fix.

As mentioned before, I cannot comment on the 998 turbo, as I have no experience with it. If the 998 is in fact built with a stub shaft assembly, like the older 973 & 1049, then I'm afraid there's nothing that came be done for the rattle. It's just the nature of these engines. Yamaha engineers designed this feature for a reason. Is it noisy? Yes! But this has been a rock solid, reliable engine! It still runs like new!

I never said the rattle can be totally eliminated as it's true that some of the noise comes from the splines. However, the noise can be kept to a minimum by keeping the spider shimmed tight. I've had dozens of customers come through my shop complaining about this noise in ever since the 05 Vector came out. When I shim the spider slides tight as possible, the noise is substantially reduced. I rode a Nytro for years, and as soon as it started to get noisy, which is every 2000 miles, I split the spider and tighten things up with the Yamaha shims, or install new slides and 0-rings.
If you look at a parts fiche for the 2005 vector compared to the 2006, you will see that there is a different slide used with an 0-ring behind it. This was a result of customers complaining of noise. 2005 models were updated with part #8ES-slidr-kt, and I actually just ordered 3 of these kits on ebay for $15 each, as that is cheap and I know they will find a home.

 

[Redbeard]

I never said the rattle can be totally eliminated as it's true that some of the noise comes from the splines. However, the noise can be kept to a minimum by keeping the spider shimmed tight. I've had dozens of customers come through my shop complaining about this noise in ever since the 05 Vector came out. When I shim the spider slides tight as possible, the noise is substantially reduced. I rode a Nytro for years, and as soon as it started to get noisy, which is every 2000 miles, I split the spider and tighten things up with the Yamaha shims, or install new slides and 0-rings.
If you look at a parts fiche for the 2005 vector compared to the 2006, you will see that there is a different slide used with an 0-ring behind it. This was a result of customers complaining of noise. 2005 models were updated with part #8ES-slidr-kt, and I actually just ordered 3 of these kits on ebay for $15 each, as that is cheap and I know they will find a home.

No, in post #11, you said my aftermarket clutch has internal components that rattle, which mimics what you call spider noise. I disproved that in the videos above.

My 2008 Vector, with 973, sounds the same way with a PB 80, as it did with the stock Yamaha clutch. All the shimming in the world won't help the rattle because it comes from the stub shaft splines.