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Clutching on the cheap

So what did Terry's sled run on the asphalt box stock? Or didn't he ever run it that way? Is there any other SR Viper's out there so we can compare against something?

Maybe Terry wants to meet up at the World Series of Ice Drags and run them? Then I guess we would know who is the fastest. ISR has a minimum weight for sled and driver, stock class requires stock exhaust and intake. Only modifications allowed would be ice drag track with studs, clutching, gearing, and suspension setup (using stock suspension obviously). :dunno:

I think my best runs were in the 11.40's with stock airbox, clutching and can.
 

Terry,

Assuming you run a detailed log, a list of the progression of your mods to ET's might be nice to have all in one place ;)

Not sure how much of the clutching info you'd want to give out, but if you stayed with the same weights and helix and only added weight would be nice to note.

I think the only thing missing would be pure stock clutching?
 
Morning TD - I do have to apologize to everyone and say I never did get to do all the testing I wanted too. Stock weights, can vs. stock muffler, different gearing, belt changes, different suspension setups, different seating positions and most of all clutching and other things I have purchased for the sled. Time just ran out way too fast! Never even moutned the PC5 with Autotune. Wish I could give you all what you want to hear but I'm not going to make something up to make it sound good....just proof with what I have done with a timeslip.

All I can predict is that 100% stock would have been in the low 12's.

I do have mostly everything I changed in the Asphalt Results thread under the race section with my times. I do know the 2mm shim gave me 4mph gain in the 1/8 mile, the airbox gave me better times and more mph on top end and the header/muffler improved .21 (possible .30-.40 minumum if I didn't spin) on paper. Those were the ones I really remember.

Next year is Route 66 Raceway for testing...at least a couple times anyway.
 
You should have basics though like:

Stock power w/clutching-baseline
MBRP can w/clutching (added "X" rivets?)
MBRP Can/air box mods (added "X" rivets)

Any Helix, spring, or cam arm changes or just weight?

Then the Evo stuff I assume all air box mods did you do can only, header only only combo?
 
TD -The EVO header and muffler were both used on the track with the airbox mod. The only thing I did with the EVO Muffler alone was get a video for sound and pictures of the install.

These were the setups I tried the last few times out.... Granted I worked on these and kept getting better numbers with the 8FP's so the other weights were taken out...wasn't going to spend a lot of time on them. Ask YamahaTim and Shagman, these guys saw the sled tore apart like no tomorrow.

I tried supertip weights 2 washers each side middle, 2 washers each side tip, OPO spring, red Dalton secondary spring, 45/39, 46/40 and the best I got with that from my notes was 7.169 1/8 mile @ 97.23mph, 11.573 1/4 mile @ 107.79mph, this was with a 47/41 helix.

Did the Heavy hitter 48.2 gram weights with all kinds of changes, best was a 7/16 steel in tip with 1 thin washer, GWG spring, Pink secondary spring with a 48/42 helix. 7.033 1/8 mile @ 95.38mph, 11.382 1/4 mile @ 108.32mph.

Just going through my notes .....
 
Another happy member who tried the 8FP setup :)

let's just say that "Holy #*$&@, Batman!" comment said it all ;)
 
Another happy member who tried the 8FP setup :)
let's just say that "Holy #*$&@, Batman!" comment said it all ;)

That would be ME he's talking about...........sled runs GREAT with this setup.........and I'm a really big guy for those that don't know me.........
 
I'm looking for the parts for the 8FP setup if anyone has any kicking around.
 
I'm looking for the parts for the 8FP setup if anyone has any kicking around.

I don't have any parts to sell but here is a parts list with Yamaha part numbers so you could purchase at your dealer if you like.

1 MM primary clutch shims 90201-483P9-00
Weight Comp UR 8FP-17605-00-00
Spring, Compression UR (GR-WH-GR) 90501-603L3-00
Rivet (St13.3) UR 90266-06002-00 3.5 gram rivet
46/40 Dalton helix
 
I don't have any parts to sell but here is a parts list with Yamaha part numbers so you could purchase at your dealer if you like.

1 MM primary clutch shims 90201-483P9-00
Weight Comp UR 8FP-17605-00-00
Spring, Compression UR (GR-WH-GR) 90501-603L3-00
Rivet (St13.3) UR 90266-06002-00 3.5 gram rivet
46/40 Dalton helix

Thanks for that I will take the list in tomorrow. The dealer wouldn't have the Dalton helix would they?
 
That would be ME he's talking about...........sled runs GREAT with this setup.........and I'm a really big guy for those that don't know me.........
Glad to hear it. We knew Terry could make her run sounds like a seat of the pants change NO DOUBT. At least thats my interpretation of the Batman comment.
 
Glad to hear it. We knew Terry could make her run sounds like a seat of the pants change NO DOUBT. At least thats my interpretation of the Batman comment.

Buddah's sled was a good test for those with low miles on their sleds. His sled has 1,000 miles on and I wanted to make sure that if someone put the 8FP kit in their sled....they would be happy. In this sled I have the 3.5 gram rivot in the tip and the sled pulls 8,800 religiously when I had tested it at my place. My elevation is 500 ft., very good air and when I go to see and ride with Buddah, want to see what his elevation (which is around 900ft. if I remember) will do to rpms and where they sit now.

I set Buddah's sled up this way so there is no way he will bang the rev limiter and can put on many miles while the engine will get looser and raise more rpms. For those that are looking for that ultimate rpm goal, you may want to try a 3 gram rivot in the tip. Of course this depends on elevation, snow conditions, which belt you are running and fuel.

Mark, I pm'ed you on how you should set up your rear float.... I told Buddah to drive at 20mph and stab the throttle.... His reply was "The sky looked really beautiful!" :) Run your rear float at 140-145 and you should be set there. All kidding aside, I want to see everyone happy with their Viper and safe :)
 
My dealer was able to find the Dalton helix in one of there aftermarket parts books. I also ordered 3 of those 1mm shims, seems like most people are running either 2 or 3mm

Most snowmobile places should be able to get any aftermarket part for your sled. I recently purchased a 46/40 helix from an aftermarket website the other day, he was going to machine them this week. Trying to get him to advertise here which he wants to....gave Mr SLed his info and was going to call him. His helix was $69.95
 


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