Clutching on the cheap

[wavemaster]

1. No, just remove the belt.
2. Not if they still grab. I use locktite on everything that vibrates and spins fast.
3. Yes, use blue or pink, not straight red. Red tends to be permanent and often requires heat to get undone.

AAGR, the higher the locktite number, the harder/more permanent it is.

 

[TD Max]

Hey if you need any help setting up your clutch and have any experience with tools we can help.

Nothing wrong with buying a kit we are just do it yourselfers.
Stage 1 - by taking off the primary clutch cover (6 bolts) and put in a 4mm or 6mm shim (available at http://www.benderracing.com/Clutch_Shims_s/38412.htm or you can make one out of the last coil on an old spring). That gives you the big change. Approx. cost $0 to$10.00
Stage 2 - put shim from stage 1, green/white/green spring, and 8FS or 8FP (8FP are cheaper) weights in. Approx. cost $195.00
Stage 3 - like NOS-PRO and mine are, stage 2 with MBRP can (others may work as well) and Airbox mod. If interested the airbox mod is explained here http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/air-box-mod.129365/ in detail. Stage 3 in my opinion is the way to go. (Fuel controller most likely will be needed depending on altitude, add another $249.00 for PCFS) approx. cost $460.00 - approx. cost with fuel controller $710.00
Obligatory disclaimer, not responsible for damages up to and including including if this causes your dog to have puppies.



EDIT: all above assumes 8DN belt but not required

Might I suggest editing this first post to include part numbers including rivets etc so that it is right up front and easy for newcomers to see?

 

[yamaha06]

What have you guys found the be the best amount of shims under the primary spring, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6mm? I know the more shims you add the higher then engagement and the top rpm is. I was thinking of trying to start with 2 or 3mm to begin with.

 

[Kerrdog569]

What have you guys found the be the best amount of shims under the primary spring, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6mm? I know the more shims you add the higher then engagement and the top rpm is. I was thinking of trying to start with 2 or 3mm to begin with.

Stingray says 4mm so I would start there

 

[edc]

Thanks for the info.

 

[stingray719]

Want to do clutching on cheep set up . my questions are:
1. do i need to pull the clutch to change the weights ? (need clutch puller?)
2. do i need to replace the nut on weight bolts or use lock tite or just put nut back on and tighten.
3. do i have to lock tite the two set screws that hold each weight bolt from turning?

want make sure i get every thing i need .

1. no, take off cover and you can pull the weights.
2. I like to use a drop of blue locktight.
3. Once again I like to put a drop of blue locktight on those too.

Some don't use locktight and I am not saying that is wrong, I just tend to use a lot of it.

 

[NOS-PRO]

LOL! A clutch weight is a clutch weight.

I have two friend's with Viper's that we have been working on, They respond to clutch component's EXACTLY the same as any other clutch! How many STM weight's have you tuned?

You are dead wrong....if this is so then why does Yamaha have so many weight profiles? A clutch weight is not just a clutch weight. I have tried every aftermarket weight out there in this Viper! Went all over the board with the STM weights and got it to work better than *&^%$ kit, but still doesn't compare to the 8FP kit.

Your friends with Vipers are not making the changes we are and I want to see their 99+ mph consistantly, back to back with their clutch kit.

Your friends aren't changing weights and total clutch configurations like we are to find what works the best. That's why they are not seeing the big changes we are.

The results are in again from this weekend in Munising....and based on top speed, drivability, smooth engagement, not hitting the rev limiter, rpms hold steady making the 8FP kit consitantly seeing the same speeds and rpms over and over....the 8FP "Clutching on the Cheap" came out once again #1

 

[NOS-PRO]

Update on MPH with the "COTC" 8FP setup, 104mph on perfectly groomed and setup trail with a 153" 2.25 inch paddle Power Claw track. Temp was about 4° F and was done on trail 7 just south of the Buckhorn in Michigan. This makes me very happy!

Verified by Shagman right next to me with his turbo sled.

 

[kviper]

Of course I'am wrong!LOL! As I said a weight is a weight as in it applys force. I'am very aware of what profile and weight does and how it pertains to acceleration and as you said the combination of cam's and spring's compliment the weight and there is the key.
One of our Vipers runs just over 100 un touched. As far as MPH is concerned a flat profile does MPH well if that's all you wan't? An agressive profile will out accelerate, this is a fact!

I don't doubt your gain's just pointing out that there is no one cenario that is the best of all worlds. My quest is to have the best trail/drag race set up with the best MPH I can have with that set up.

 

[NOS-PRO]

What have you guys found the be the best amount of shims under the primary spring, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6mm? I know the more shims you add the higher then engagement and the top rpm is. I was thinking of trying to start with 2 or 3mm to begin with.

Right now at 3 shims (3mm)

 

[NOS-PRO]

Might I suggest editing this first post to include part numbers including rivets etc so that it is right up front and easy for newcomers to see?

Good thought TD

Hey Stingray....can you copy and post these parts numbers/prices in your 1st post?

 

[stingray719]

Of course I'am wrong!LOL! As I said a weight is a weight as in it applys force. I'am very aware of what profile and weight does and how it pertains to acceleration and as you said the combination of cam's and spring's compliment the weight and there is the key.
One of our Vipers runs just over 100 un touched. As far as MPH is concerned a flat profile does MPH well if that's all you wan't? An agressive profile will out accelerate, this is a fact!

I don't doubt your gain's just pointing out that there is no one cenario that is the best of all worlds. My quest is to have the best trail/drag race set up with the best MPH I can have with that set up.

This was good for a laugh this morning thanks! You just quoted "out accelerate" to the undisputed fastest normally aspirated Viper on an asphalt 1/4 mile, while he was running the same kit he does on snow. I wasn't going to answer you again but I had too, this was just too funny.


This is NOS-PRO time slip from last summer on his Viper with can and my air box mod, notice the 98 MPH at the 1/8 mile mark. 109 mph in 1/4 mile with Clutching on the cheap, MBRP can and my air box mod. Same setup he runs on snow, our point is and has been the correct clutching adjusts to where you run it.

 

[kviper]

stingray, once again your true colors shine through. You have jumped on me and others in non clutching on the cheap posts generating my aditude with you however I still try to treat you with respect. I'am not going to wast any more space on this site arguing with you because you obviously know it all.

Also please don't respond to any of my posts again and I will do the same with you!

 

[nherbst454]

Back on topic, for those with more miles on their sleds have you had to add weight to keep the R's down below the rev limiter?

 

[NOS-PRO]

yes, add weight to the tip. if you are just touching the rev limiter I would take out existing rivot and install next size up rivot.