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Clutching on the cheap


my .02

The 8FS weights are heavier on the base compared to the 8FP. The 8FP gets up to high rpm better than the 8FS, but they both are close on end result.

The key to clutching the Viper is getting to top rpm as fast as possible and then load the engine.

Examples I have been using..... Watch a top fuel dragster run, top rpm then load the engine by adding pressure to the clutches down track till you get to your final drive ratio.

or imagine you have a 3 step ladder in your kitchen, the box is on the sink and you are trying to place the box on top of the cupboard above the sink. It would be quicker and less effort to climb the ladder first without the box than grab the box first and then climb the ladder. It's that little bit of quickness and less effort to get where you want to be faster.

Yeah, I need to get out riding..... ;) :p
 
Well my G/W/G primary spring is on backorder so I will be leaving this morning with completely stock clutching for my first trip on the new Viper. I figured it made no sense to install part of the "kit" and also this gives me a chance to establish a baseline on the stock clutching performance so I have something to measure the improvement against after putting the "kit" in.

I did put my MBRP race can on and I am excited to see if that alone raises my RPMs which would be an indicator that the can is allowing the engine to make more power with a less restrictive exhaust. I also realize that the RPM's will also be coming up on their own during break in since the sled only has 50 miles on it.

I have the 8FP weights with the correct rivets and the primary spring shims. I have a Hauck 49/41 helix that I was going to try but I am thinking that I want the 46/40 helix so I have the exact same set-up that has already been proven to work best.

I have a vendor that is willing to make me a 46/40 helix with a deeper spring "pocket" so that I do not have to add the three 0.080" shim washers to prevent coil binding.

I am assuming that you guys would agree that this is a better way to go, correct? If so, I am assuming that I should I have him make the spring "pocket" 0.080" deeper, correct?

Dave
 
Yes, have them make the spring pocket deeper :)
 
Looking for a G-W-G call Ulmer Racing, I got one for my mountain setup from him and he said he had plenty on hand (as I saw they were back ordered as well).
 
Blue Dave said:
Well my G/W/G primary spring is on backorder so I will be leaving this morning with completely stock clutching for my first trip on the new Viper. I figured it made no sense to install part of the "kit" and also this gives me a chance to establish a baseline on the stock clutching performance so I have something to measure the improvement against after putting the "kit" in.

I did put my MBRP race can on and I am excited to see if that alone raises my RPMs which would be an indicator that the can is allowing the engine to make more power with a less restrictive exhaust. I also realize that the RPM's will also be coming up on their own during break in since the sled only has 50 miles on it.

I have the 8FP weights with the correct rivets and the primary spring shims. I have a Hauck 49/41 helix that I was going to try but I am thinking that I want the 46/40 helix so I have the exact same set-up that has already been proven to work best.

I have a vendor that is willing to make me a 46/40 helix with a deeper spring "pocket" so that I do not have to add the three 0.080" shim washers to prevent coil binding.

I am assuming that you guys would agree that this is a better way to go, correct? If so, I am assuming that I should I have him make the spring "pocket" 0.080" deeper, correct?

Dave
Click to expand...


If you are under 9k on rpm put whatever primary spring shims you have up to 6mm in for a quick test, I think you will be surprised. Have fun!
 
Blue Dave said:
Well my G/W/G primary spring is on backorder so I will be leaving this morning with completely stock clutching for my first trip on the new Viper. I figured it made no sense to install part of the "kit" and also this gives me a chance to establish a baseline on the stock clutching performance so I have something to measure the improvement against after putting the "kit" in.

I did put my MBRP race can on and I am excited to see if that alone raises my RPMs which would be an indicator that the can is allowing the engine to make more power with a less restrictive exhaust. I also realize that the RPM's will also be coming up on their own during break in since the sled only has 50 miles on it.

I have the 8FP weights with the correct rivets and the primary spring shims. I have a Hauck 49/41 helix that I was going to try but I am thinking that I want the 46/40 helix so I have the exact same set-up that has already been proven to work best.

I have a vendor that is willing to make me a 46/40 helix with a deeper spring "pocket" so that I do not have to add the three 0.080" shim washers to prevent coil binding.

I am assuming that you guys would agree that this is a better way to go, correct? If so, I am assuming that I should I have him make the spring "pocket" 0.080" deeper, correct?

Dave
Click to expand...

Dave, try to keep a record of fuel mileage before and after your changes :)

Also, since you don't have a GWG spring yet, try Stingray's shim mod with the stock clutch setup

Take good notes as I am really anxious to hear bone stock results from the 2015 Viper. call me with any questions
 
would a 45/39 helix work ?? or just get the 46/40?
 
46/40 is what I am using right now
 
Well I went for a ride in a freshly groomed ditch. I got in to some powder and pinned it. Heard the rev limiter so I stopped and check the recall. 9340. Wow never seen it that high. Did a cpl hole shots and never heard it on hard pack. Will keep an eye on tach to see if I am going to have to add weight. If you break traction should you expect to bang rev or if clutched right it wong get that high?
 
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