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Clutching on the cheap


Okay this may sound like a dumb question but if I was to do just the stage 1 clutching on the cheap where its just the shim, what changes am I going to see exactly? Sorry if its been answered before tried reading all the pages and couldn't find it. also haven't touched clutches on the snowmobile before. thanks for any help guys

Just the shim will help overall and a slight takeoff rpm increase. The problem with stock though is the 8gl weights have a little bump on the heel of the weight that makes the sled rev higher at takeoff. So shim is noticeable improvement but the big change comes from weights, spring and shim.
 
Just installed clutching on the cheap
G-w-g spring with 2mm of shims, 8fp weights with 3.6 rivot in the tip, 8dn belt and mbrp can.
Alls I can say what a difference over stock! Its alot smoother engagment on takeoff.
My rpms went to 8700rpms from 8400 and speed went from 72 to 81mph, but I don't have a long enough field to check top speed.
It just keeps pulling from start till I have to shut it down. Its feels like it has alot more in to go. I have a Big smile on my face now!
 
Just installed clutching on the cheap
G-w-g spring with 2mm of shims, 8fp weights with 3.6 rivot in the tip, 8dn belt and mbrp can.
Alls I can say what a difference over stock! Its alot smoother engagment on takeoff.
My rpms went to 8700rpms from 8400 and speed went from 72 to 81mph, but I don't have a long enough field to check top speed.
It just keeps pulling from start till I have to shut it down. Its feels like it has alot more in to go. I have a Big smile on my face now!
Are you running stock helix ?
 
We will be ordering this kit for my friends new Viper. Right now his Viper is a couple of sleds behind and slower overall than my stock Nytro 13xtx. Will this kit work on a Nytro too??
 
Just curious. Why would it not perform as advertised ?

Pulled the helix angle info from the 2 stroke side. There is an "Aftermarket Helix Angle List" over there I keep going to.

I have heard this before and it's common to see some aftermarket helix companies advertise 1 angle where it is another angle to throw off their competitors (at least that's how I take it). This is why they stamp a number, letter or code on their helix because they don't want copy-cats knowing the angles (especially grass and ice racing). I try to stick with the same brand of helix.....but every dollar counts, so I look for the best deal.

This is why testing is so crutial and we try to keep the best information possible here for everyone here. All this testing with Shagman, Stingray, Cannondale and myslef want to improve our sleds drivability, fun factor and of course whoop a few butts! I want to see everyone's Viper rock on the trail!

So glad to see the members who are switching to the COTC 8FP setup and loving it :)
 
We will be ordering this kit for my friends new Viper. Right now his Viper is a couple of sleds behind and slower overall than my stock Nytro 13xtx. Will this kit work on a Nytro too??

I'm afraid to say it will not give the same results on the Nytro as it does on the Viper. The power curve is diferent. Even tho they both have the same engine, the ECU is different between them.
 
So installing the shim will help with rolling engagement? Because I've noticed when switching between a few of my family's sleds. How jumpy and hard it is to creep forward on the viper.
 
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In theory adding a shim should raise engagement but also take away some belt force..am I correct? Which will make it smoother and less "jumpy" as the weights aren't winging out quick?
Okay that makes sense thanks. Might have to get a shim then and start from there. I see there's two shims recommend. Which one is more preferred?
 
So installing the shim will help with rolling engagement? Because I've noticed when switching between a few of my family's sleds. How jumpy and hard it is to creep forward on the viper.

The GWG primary spring along with the shims make this an extremely smooth engagement. We could have went with a stiffer spring but engagement is too high and wouldn't grab the belt correctly on top end. You would think adding the shim would be wrong, but it works. Just like Cannondale mentioned, it feels like it's electric or smooth like a Lexus.

This was quoted from a member.... "The engagement is so smooth that you can creep the sled forward...like at a gas station where you can just touch the throttle, move it forward and not have it jump 20 feet like it was before"

The smooth engagement this setup has also crawls on top of the deep snow instead of digging a hole.
 
Okay that makes sense thanks. Might have to get a shim then and start from there. I see there's two shims recommend. Which one is more preferred?

Just doing the shims? my mistake...I thought you were going to install the kit....my bad. It will engage a little higher.

Where do you ride mostly? if you are looking for more speed I don't think you want the shims alone....Stingray did the shim kit to have more bottom end and mid range.....you might not gain top end mph.
 
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Terry how much rpm does just the shims gain on top end? For some folks that have totally stock sleds that aren't quite getting high enough rpm a shim may likely bring that up enough to be close to peak rpm? Just thinking out loud
 
I have seen a couple hundred rpms gain per shim....but it's hard to say with all the varrying rpms out there from people who are stock. Some are high, some are low, belt residue vrs. non residue (binding of the clutches) and glazed belts.
 
If I remember right when stingray picked up his blue viper from the dealer he did just the shim and claimed it gained more power by feel, is that because it allowed the engine to just rev up more and made it so the weights didn't shift out as fast and bog down?
 


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