Clutching on the cheap

[cannondale27]

Yes.

 

[Studroes144]

Gotcha I'll give that a try later and report back

 

[stingray719]

Has anyone else tried the Orange Yellow Orange spring? Really like the engagement vs Orange Pink Orange.Very little effect on top rpm.

OYO spring is 81.1 long
GWG spring is 89.8 long

I found the length of the Orange series to be short for the clutching on the cheap with 8FP weights. Please do experiment but the Orange series is not recommended for the COTC cheap at this time. As with Barry or other non COTC kits the orange series might work great, just trying not to confuse people.

 

[chad26]

E="bleedyamaha, post: 1196434, member: 20523"]Are you running stock helix ?[/QUOTE]
Yes I'm running the stock helix.

 

[bleedyamaha]

E="bleedyamaha, post: 1196434, member: 20523"]Are you running stock helix ?

Yes I'm running the stock helix.[/QUOTE] I ran stock helix and my rpms were low so when I switched to my 45/41 helix I was very happy. Helix makes makes a big difference. Just something to think ahout.

 

[NOS-PRO]

I ran stock helix and my rpms were low so when I switched to my 45/41 helix I was very happy. Helix makes makes a big difference. Just something to think ahout.

Perfectly said

 

[stingray719]

Please note that Pioneers Helix has spring pocket cut to eliminate coil spring bind, no machining of secondary's is needed to prevent spring bind in the secondary clutch. Just found that out today.

 

[NOS-PRO]

****Important note****

There have been some that have had problems with their primary clutches being really tight and there is a lot of drag when the primary is disassembled.

Stingray mentioned this to me when his sled was new and it was messing up with his engagement. Thought this may have been a "one and only" case, but seems to be more common than we think. My clutch was always snug and I went to a 911 cover to eliminate the binding. With the different clutching I am doing, switching covers back and forth, the primary is nice and free now. I'm still under 3,000 miles.

Received a call last night mentioning his clutch is engaging over 3,400 rpm's with the COTC kit with just 200 miles on his sled...there is definitely some drag or binding going on there. This kit engages at 2,700-2,800 and is not jerky....it's very smooth.

Another issue is all the belt residue can make the clutch hang up, bind or not engage correctly.

Just wanted to point this out

 

[stingray719]

****Important note****

There have been some that have had problems with their primary clutches being really tight and there is a lot of drag when the primary is disassembled.

Stingray mentioned this to me when his sled was new and it was messing up with his engagement. Thought this may have been a "one and only" case, but seems to be more common than we think. My clutch was always snug and I went to a 911 cover to eliminate the binding. With the different clutching I am doing, switching covers back and forth, the primary is nice and free now. I'm still under 3,000 miles.

Received a call last night mentioning his clutch is engaging over 3,400 rpm's with the COTC kit with just 200 miles on his sled...there is definitely some drag or binding going on there. This kit engages at 2,700-2,800 and is not jerky....it's very smooth.

Another issue is all the belt residue can make the clutch hang up, bind or not engage correctly.

Just wanted to point this out

And the tightness gets much worse if you have a bunch of belt dust in it. I had to take steel wool to the shaft on the primary under where the belt rides to get the black lines off. If the outer sheave on the primary does not move in and out by hand with the spring and belt off it is not going to work correctly.

 

[STAIN]

Did that 911 cover cure the binding? Or was it the buttons getting dirty? I have on cover on my shelf.

 

[stingray719]

Did that 911 cover cure the binding? Or was it the buttons getting dirty? I have on cover on my shelf.

Mine was bound up the worst on the bushing on the outer primary sheave, cover wasn't bad.

 

[NOS-PRO]

Did that 911 cover cure the binding? Or was it the buttons getting dirty? I have on cover on my shelf.

It is a nice cover and it seemed like it did, but switching back and forth between the stock and 911, even tho it seemed better it had same results (rpms, engagement,,,etc.)

 

[TJ-R]

Finally got to log some miles this past weekend and I can say that the clutch mods works great. Engagement is super smooth, it can creep along with no belt squeal or slippage and it pull hard and strong right up to 8,700 and 80mph. I only had a couple of opportunities to hold it to the wood and saw 87 once. But I got to tell you it is a true 87, no BS lying speedo, you can feel it and it gets there real fast. I have no doubt that in better conditions with a longer straight away (only had 1/2 mile at best); there is more to be had .
For the trails where I ride and what I like do, it is a great improvement. You get great corner to corner pull and still can mess around off trail in the trees without frying the belt.

• I still have the shims in the secondary with the 8dn belt so it ride higher;
  
• Running two 1mm shims in the primary (all I could get at the time, have more now and will go to 3 this weekend).
• GWG spring
• 8fp weights with 3 gram rivet in tip
• Black Diamond Extreme 45/39 helix with spring in the 2-3 holes.

These two slight deviations in the setup recipe are probably helping the good low rpm smooth engagement and hindering top speed/rpm.

Thank you NOS PRO & STINGRAY & SHAGMAN!

Axis shocks up front last Sunday; unbelievable improvement.
Rears shocks are mounted in the skid on the workbench and ready to install back under the sled.
MBRP Trail can is here, that and air box mod are next.

Enjoy!

 

[NOS-PRO]

Finally got to log some miles this past weekend and I can say that the clutch mods works great. Engagement is super smooth, it can creep along with no belt squeal or slippage and it pull hard and strong right up to 8,700 and 80mph. I only had a couple of opportunities to hold it to the wood and saw 87 once. But I got to tell you it is a true 87, no BS lying speedo, you can feel it and it gets there real fast. I have no doubt that in better conditions with a longer straight away (only had 1/2 mile at best); there is more to be had .
For the trails where I ride and what I like do, it is a great improvement. You get great corner to corner pull and still can mess around off trail in the trees without frying the belt.

• I still have the shims in the secondary with the 8dn belt so it ride higher;
  
• Running two 1mm shims in the primary (all I could get at the time, have more now and will go to 3 this weekend).
• GWG spring
• 8fp weights with 3 gram rivet in tip
• Black Diamond Extreme 45/41 helix with spring in the 2-3 holes.

These two slight deviations in the setup recipe are probably helping the good low rpm smooth engagement and hindering top speed/rpm.

Thank you NOS PRO & STINGRAY & SHAGMAN!

Axis shocks up front last Sunday; unbelievable improvement.
Rears shocks are mounted in the skid on the workbench and ready to install back under the sled.
MBRP Trail can is here, that and air box mod are next.

Enjoy!

Awesome post TJ

 

[superb]

I have a 2015 DX LTX with the same set-up and it does run a lot better than stock, my sled has the Hindle power up kit with PCV and air box mod. I also own three Vector ltx's a 2010,2011 and a 2012, which are all stock. Any one with stay with my Viper in the midrange and walk away from it on top end. I have done it all, My Viper rolls free, the clutching is not sticking and is decent on fuel. So what is the problem here, is it the chassis that is slowing this thing down, a friend of mine rode a new 800 cat last season and he told me it would only run 100mph on top end and he could only get 104 miles per tank. Might be the nature of the beast. Next week I am installing a Hurricane 190 turbo kit. I sure hope it will run at least 110mph or I will be pissed. I mean 110mph on a hard packed trail, not on ice.