Clutching on the cheap

[cannondale27]

do you mean start a new thread?

I put it all in the first post first page. I couldnt seem to get the pics to show but the links take you to the pics. Let me know if this is alright with you guys.

 

[yamamarc]

I put it all in the first post first page. I couldnt seem to get the pics to show but the links take you to the pics. Let me know if this is alright with you guys.

 

[stingray719]

I put it all in the first post first page. I couldnt seem to get the pics to show but the links take you to the pics. Let me know if this is alright with you guys.

Thanks! I fixed it but there is a 10 pic limit on the posts so two pics are still links.

 

[Jeepjklabrador]

So i finally decided to try this "clutching on the cheap" and my reaction is WOW i always thought that the stock clutching on my machines were "good enough " but when i got this viper i was highly disappointed in the mid / top end mine is a mtx, stock it was all bottom end grunt but past 30mph lazy was not what i expected from the 1049 nor what i had experienced from nytros i drove ,talking with stingray he has helped me tremendously getting my viper where i want it to be . I got everything i needed locally i had the fab shop i work at make shims , got a helix for $50, Weights for $30 and a new g/w/g spring for $30 all i needed for $110 Canadian my viper now pulls and performs way better then it did and for the first time today i really enjoyed squeezing that flipper cant wait for the airbox mod Stingray you sir are the man i cannot express my gratitude enough i now love my sled

 

[stingray719]

So i finally decided to try this "clutching on the cheap" and my reaction is WOW i always thought that the stock clutching on my machines were "good enough " but when i got this viper i was highly disappointed in the mid / top end mine is a mtx, stock it was all bottom end grunt but past 30mph lazy was not what i expected from the 1049 nor what i had experienced from nytros i drove ,talking with stingray he has helped me tremendously getting my viper where i want it to be . I got everything i needed locally i had the fab shop i work at make shims , got a helix for $50, Weights for $30 and a new g/w/g spring for $30 all i needed for $110 Canadian my viper now pulls and performs way better then it did and for the first time today i really enjoyed squeezing that flipper cant wait for the airbox mod Stingray you sir are the man i cannot express my gratitude enough i now love my sled

Now lets get that air box mod on and kick some butt in Cains Quest!

 

[niarve00]

I have XTX 2014 with COTC. 4mm shims, stock helix, 6-1 wrap. Usually it´s working fine but problem is that if I get stuck it burns belt very easily:/ Same happened with stock clucthing. What can be problem?

 

[stingray719]

I have XTX 2014 with COTC. 4mm shims, stock helix, 6-1 wrap. Usually it´s working fine but problem is that if I get stuck it burns belt very easily:/ Same happened with stock clucthing. What can be problem?

Are you running the stock belt or 8dn?

 

[Jeepjklabrador]

I have the same problem ...had it stock as well with both belts

 

[niarve00]

I have the same problem ...had it stock as well with both belts

I have the same

 

[stingray719]

These tunnels pack a lot of snow in the front when going through deep snow. When stuck I put mine in reverse and hit the throttle one time to turn the track about half a revolution or so backwards (not enough to stick it worse) then hit it forward.

 

[RTX]

Have been running the cotc set up all season
1700 miles on the sled
Set up is 2 shims in primary
8fp weight with 3.2 rivets
Gwg spring
46/40 helix set @ 6-1 shimmed .060 with stock secondary spring.

Right now im hitting the revlimiter on wide open pulls/top speed runs.
I am planning on installing either the turbo dynamics, sandale, or EVO muffler over the summer.
Obviously i need to add more weight but how much?
I was thinking about installing the 3.6 rivets in the tip but i was thinking the addition of the exhaust might require more weight than that.
Do you guys think i would be better off using the 4.5 rivets?
Any help is appreciated.

 

[stingray719]

Have been running the cotc set up all season
1700 miles on the sled
Set up is 2 shims in primary
8fp weight with 3.2 rivets
Gwg spring
46/40 helix set @ 6-1 shimmed .060 with stock secondary spring.

Right now im hitting the revlimiter on wide open pulls/top speed runs.
I am planning on installing either the turbo dynamics, sandale, or EVO muffler over the summer.
Obviously i need to add more weight but how much?
I was thinking about installing the 3.6 rivets in the tip but i was thinking the addition of the exhaust might require more weight than that.
Do you guys think i would be better off using the 4.5 rivets?
Any help is appreciated.

4.5 with aftermarket muffler should be very close.

 

[NOS-PRO]

Have been running the cotc set up all season
1700 miles on the sled
Set up is 2 shims in primary
8fp weight with 3.2 rivets
Gwg spring
46/40 helix set @ 6-1 shimmed .060 with stock secondary spring.

Right now im hitting the revlimiter on wide open pulls/top speed runs.
I am planning on installing either the turbo dynamics, sandale, or EVO muffler over the summer.
Obviously i need to add more weight but how much?
I was thinking about installing the 3.6 rivets in the tip but i was thinking the addition of the exhaust might require more weight than that.
Do you guys think i would be better off using the 4.5 rivets?
Any help is appreciated.

Just like Stingray has mentioned....you going to the 4.5 rivets will be real close if not spot on with an aftermarket can.

 

[benjamingvsu]

Thanks for the pics Yamamarc - I just noticed you put the primary shims in the cover - I actually put mine on the other end of the spring - does anyone think it matters?

I went ahead and bought the MPI rivets and put them in the tip - pricey, but hopefully gets my RPMs down enough up top.

I'm breaking rule #1 of clutch tuning and changing more than one thing at a time - I'm moving back to 4 shims, and I'm trying the soft start primary spring from Barn of Parts. I got tired of leaving rubber on the concrete when moving the sled around the garage, and I also noticed I spun the track going into my enclosed trailer. On the stand and moving the sled around the garage the engagement is definitely lower - I can move it now without spinning the track. Hopefully this set up works on the snow too!

 

[stingray719]

Thanks for the pics Yamamarc - I just noticed you put the primary shims in the cover - I actually put mine on the other end of the spring - does anyone think it matters?

I went ahead and bought the MPI rivets and put them in the tip - pricey, but hopefully gets my RPMs down enough up top.

I'm breaking rule #1 of clutch tuning and changing more than one thing at a time - I'm moving back to 4 shims, and I'm trying the soft start primary spring from Barn of Parts. I got tired of leaving rubber on the concrete when moving the sled around the garage, and I also noticed I spun the track going into my enclosed trailer. On the stand and moving the sled around the garage the engagement is definitely lower - I can move it now without spinning the track. Hopefully this set up works on the snow too!

Sounds great, I agree with what you are doing the soft touch spring rocks.