Clutching on the cheap

[Studroes144]

Ya they got some forecasted, we'll see if the snow shows.

 

[shagman]

Stud. It's only a 14 hr drive over here. Ty ride Jan 9-11. You should make a trip sometime.

 

[Studroes144]

Bachelor party that weekend for a bud of mine, and well...I don't won't to miss those festivities..we'll leave it at that lol even tho a nice new riding area sounds like a blast!

 

[jim rice]

The neck on my stock helix has been machined to match the exact specs of a dalton helix, so chances are I should leave it at that. Especially now with the 21/41 gearing coming I won't need to worry about freeing up that last few mph in the clutches. Right now with the spring out and the helix bolted on and sheaves opened all the way there is roughly 1/4-1/2 inch gap between the belt and center hub so it's still in safe territory.

Did you try the Gearing yet now that you have snow just wondering how it is working out for you?

 

[Studroes144]

I have 21/41 gears ordered, ulmers secondary spring is on the way and I got a few primary springs and other helix combos to try, 109 mph in 1000' and completely done with the secondary spring bound up

 

[Blue Dave]

OK guys my head is spinning trying to decipher all of this information which seems to cover many different applications (stock, mods, turbo's) and I really do not have the desire to read all 26 pages to attempt to figure it out.

I have a completely stock '15 RTX DX that I plan to stud next week. The sled only has 10 miles on it so I realize that the rivet weight will need to increase as the sled breaks in and gains power. I ride almost exclusively on groomed trails. I don't care so much about top speed. What I really want is arm stretching acceleration from a dead stop or from corner to corner on a trail!

Therefore I have the following questions pertaining to "clutching on the cheap" for my particular application. Specifically:

8FP weights, correct? If so, what is the Yamaha p/n?
Green/White/Green secondary spring, correct? If so, what is the Yamaha p/n?
Shim helix with three washers, correct? If so, how thick?
Which rivets in which holes to start with?
Primary spring shimmed with 1 mm shims (90201-483P9-00), correct? If so, how many?
Stock primary spring? If not, which one?
Stock helix? If not, which one?
Anything else?

Thanks in advance for the help. TY members are the best! I have learned so much from you guys over the years and that is why I love this site so much!

 

[NOS-PRO]

I know they are here, I will repost them. WIll respond with the setup I believe you should have

 

[NOS-PRO]

8FP Weights Part number 8FP-17605-00-00 are $55.99 each retail ($167.97 for a set of 3)
GWG Primary Spring Part Number 90501-603L3-00: $24.49
Primary spring shim from Yamaha Part Number 90201-483P9-00: $6.95
3.6 gram rivet Part number 90269-06006-00: $2.95 each ($8.85 for a set of 3)
Dalton Helix 46/40 (or similar angle): $125
Helix Shims so secondary spring doesn't coil bind: $1

Blue Dave, I found a set of (3) 8FP weights from Hibishman, he is a vendor here and I got my weights from him slighlty used for under $100.

These are what you will need, but with your sled not having many miles, If you aren't worried about top end....I would go with the 3.5 or 3.6 gram rivot right away and let the sled break in. You will still have your arm pull and great fuel mileage. Remember, this is with the 8DN belt also which isn't listed above. I have also found a place where you can get a brand new 46/40 helix for $70. He was informing me that he will be a vendor here and have sent him to the TY Admin to sell here....but haven't seen his vendor staus yet.

 

[Blue Dave]

8FP Weights Part number 8FP-17605-00-00 are $55.99 each retail ($167.97 for a set of 3)
GWG Primary Spring Part Number 90501-603L3-00: $24.49
Primary spring shim from Yamaha Part Number 90201-483P9-00: $6.95
3.6 gram rivet Part number 90269-06006-00: $2.95 each ($8.85 for a set of 3)
Dalton Helix 46/40 (or similar angle): $125
Helix Shims so secondary spring doesn't coil bind: $1

Blue Dave, I found a set of (3) 8FP weights from Hibishman, he is a vendor here and I got my weights from him slighlty used for under $100.

These are what you will need, but with your sled not having many miles, If you aren't worried about top end....I would go with the 3.5 or 3.6 gram rivot right away and let the sled break in. You will still have your arm pull and great fuel mileage. Remember, this is with the 8DN belt also which isn't listed above. I have also found a place where you can get a brand new 46/40 helix for $70. He was informing me that he will be a vendor here and have sent him to the TY Admin to sell here....but haven't seen his vendor staus yet.

Thanks so much for the fast response and especially for sharing your set-up. Most guys that spend the amount of time that you obviously have testing and tinkering do not want to share what they have learned with others. Thank you so much for sharing!!!!

I still have some additional questions for you. Specifically:

If I shim the helix to avoid secondary spring coil binding can I run my 8JP belt with no issues?
What thickness washers under the helix?
Stock secondary spring?
How many 1 mm primary spring shims?
What will my engagement RPM be?
Is there more than one location for the rivets? If so, which location do I use?
Which holes do I use for the secondary spring (how many degrees)?

Thanks again for the help!

 

[jim rice]

Thanks so much for the fast response and especially for sharing your set-up. Most guys that spend the amount of time that you obviously have testing and tinkering do not want to share what they have learned with others. Thank you so much for sharing!!!!

I still have some additional questions for you. Specifically:

If I shim the helix to avoid secondary spring coil binding can I run my 8JP belt with no issues?
What thickness washers under the helix?
Stock secondary spring?
How many 1 mm primary spring shims?
What will my engagement RPM be?
Is there more than one location for the rivets? If so, which location do I use?
Which holes do I use for the secondary spring (how many degrees)?

Thanks again for the help!

Studoes might be able to chime in here and repost some quick tips on freeing up some rolling hp witch could change the clutching a little too

 

[NOS-PRO]

Thanks so much for the fast response and especially for sharing your set-up. Most guys that spend the amount of time that you obviously have testing and tinkering do not want to share what they have learned with others. Thank you so much for sharing!!!!

I still have some additional questions for you. Specifically:

If I shim the helix to avoid secondary spring coil binding can I run my 8JP belt with no issues?
What thickness washers under the helix?
Stock secondary spring?
How many 1 mm primary spring shims?
What will my engagement RPM be?
Is there more than one location for the rivets? If so, which location do I use?
Which holes do I use for the secondary spring (how many degrees)?

Thanks again for the help!

You will need 3 washers 2mm (.080") thickness washers. I will pm you what you will need to do with the washers as you have to grind 1 edge....nothing too complicated.

The 8JP belt can be used but the residue from the belt and inconsistant rpms is what everyone is avoiding by going to the 8DN belt (plus the 8DN is cheaper)

Sotck secondary pink spring is used

2 primary spring shims needed, 1mm each, engagement will be a nice soft and smooth 2,800

The rivots go in the tip only, there is 3 holes in each weight but you will only be using the tip.

The holes on the helix will depend on whose helix you purchase. Mostly 6-1 (6 in the helix and 1 in the secondary)

No problem We are here to help and I want to see everyones Viper running it's best

 

[Blue Dave]

You will need 3 washers 2mm (.080") thickness washers. I will pm you what you will need to do with the washers as you have to grind 1 edge....nothing too complicated.

The 8JP belt can be used but the residue from the belt and inconsistant rpms is what everyone is avoiding by going to the 8DN belt (plus the 8DN is cheaper)

Sotck secondary pink spring is used

2 primary spring shims needed, 1mm each, engagement will be a nice soft and smooth 2,800

The rivots go in the tip only, there is 3 holes in each weight but you will only be using the tip.

The holes on the helix will depend on whose helix you purchase. Mostly 6-1 (6 in the helix and 1 in the secondary)

No problem We are here to help and I want to see everyones Viper running it's best

Greatly appreciated! This is why I am a lifetime member of TY. Worth every cent IMO!

 

[NOS-PRO]

 

[Blue Dave]

Well look what I found in my stash of clutch parts that I have accumulated over the years. I have three 8FP weights and three primary spring shims!

I also found at least a half dozen secondary springs, several primary springs (but none are GWG), two additional sets of weights , and many chain case gears! I had no idea what I had on hand!

The problem with the clutch kits from vendors that I have saved from my previous sleds is that they paint the springs so that you do not know what they really are. I may have the correct primary spring but I have no way of knowing. I also may have the correct helix but they are not marked with the angles that the vendor cut into them.

I have a Hauck #4 kit that was on my 2002 SRX 700. The helix is marked with "G" and that is how it is called out in the instructions. The primary spring is painted orange and that is how it is called out in the instructions. Does anybody know what the angles are on this helix and what the Yamaha color code is on this spring?

 

[NOS-PRO]

Awesome!!!!!

I believe that orange is similar to the GWG or possibly the YGY which I would try

The helix might be darn close also!!!!!