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Curve leading edge install

I do believe suspension setup effects how well the leading edge works. I found that the Curve skis work well enough without them installed and as long as the sled is setup properly there is virtually no darting.

Mr Sled, what sled do you run the Curves with Dual carbides on? I didn't find a need to go that direction on my Nytro. The only time I had darting was when I ran the stock skis with a single.

I just picked up a New Viper RTX SE and probably will ditch the Tuner skis and install Curves before next season. I'll start with the 4" carbides that Curve sells for their ski unless others have found a better setup.
 

I do believe suspension setup effects how well the leading edge works. I found that the Curve skis work well enough without them installed and as long as the sled is setup properly there is virtually no darting.

Mr Sled, what sled do you run the Curves with Dual carbides on? I didn't find a need to go that direction on my Nytro. The only time I had darting was when I ran the stock skis with a single.

I just picked up a New Viper RTX SE and probably will ditch the Tuner skis and install Curves before next season. I'll start with the 4" carbides that Curve sells for their ski unless others have found a better setup.

I had great luck with them on the Nytro. Could run leading edge with single carbide and Zero darting but without the leading edge it would dart. On my 06 Apex with the M10 Airwave it did not matter toe in or out or even the leading edge, that sled would only work with curves if they had slim jim duallys or it would dart .

My Viper never put the leading edge on because I wasnt going to spend the money if I had to go to duallys so I just put them on right off the bat. I love it... so I set both my Vipers up like this.

I have 2 EPS Apexs and those sleds both work great with either the leading edge or the duallys.

So in conclusion, would I rather run the leading edge or the Slim-Jim duallys?? Well the way I ride and the way I want the sled act in all the conditions we ride in... the Curve Ski with the Slim-Jim Dually is the way to go. If you are hung up on running a single bar then maybe the leading edge is worth the price.
 
Thanks Tom, I may look into the dually setup with the Curves for my Viper.
 
I have Curve skis on my 2o14 ltx, with 6" shaper bars, darts a fare bit.Installed quarter inch shims, helped a lot but still darts a bit.Did not realize slim jims were available for these skis, will try them next.
 
have Curve skis on my 2o14 ltx, with 6" shaper bars, darts a fare bit.Installed quarter inch shims, helped a lot but still darts a bit.Did not realize slim jims were available for these skis, will try them next
X2 ;)!
 
I have Curve skis on my 2o14 ltx, with 6" shaper bars, darts a fare bit.Installed quarter inch shims, helped a lot but still darts a bit.Did not realize slim jims were available for these skis, will try them next.
Found out from Kevin (Port-Parts) that C&A, Slydog and Curve all use the same bolt pattern for wear bars so find the correct ones and have at it..........
 
I ran the Curves w/o the leading edge in Muni this past weekend. Darting was minimal with the exception of hard decal. When you chop the throttle and the weight transfers forward they get a bit squirrely. I'm going to give them a while before trying any changes like the dooly bars as my shapers are brand new. My toe out is 3/4" but if I pull the loops together and release it's more like 3/8". Good old AC tie rods...


I was able to get the dimensions from Nathan with Curve and I did predrill the 1/8" pilot holes so I have them marked.
 
I bit the bullet and ordered the 4" leading edge and also got the template. I have to say that little hunk of aluminum for $15 is the biggest ripoff lol, but I wanted to see what this template was all about. If anyone would like the dimensions of it toss me a pm and I would be glad to measure it. There is no reason they needed to make it out of aluminum. Plastic at 1/3 the price would be a much better option in my eyes or better yet dimple the hole location on the skis right in the molding process and bag the need for any template.
 
I bit the bullet and ordered the 4" leading edge and also got the template. I have to say that little hunk of aluminum for $15 is the biggest ripoff lol, but I wanted to see what this template was all about. If anyone would like the dimensions of it toss me a pm and I would be glad to measure it. There is no reason they needed to make it out of aluminum. Plastic at 1/3 the price would be a much better option in my eyes or better yet dimple the hole location on the skis right in the molding process and bag the need for any template.

but then they wouldnt make as much money.lol lookin at a pair of used curves right now.
 
So Curve has a template that they instruct you to use when installing their leading edge. It seems they really want you to use this. It's $15 and doesn't look like anything special though. Am I missing something here? :confused: Wouldn't it be just as easy to have a print sheet and use that to determine the attach points? That or dimple the ski at the factory. Or better yet instead of a Curve sticker how about a template sticker?

I don't want to sound like a cheap SOB because I'm not, but things like this are hard to justify owning and something that you would expect automatically with a premium product.



I have the 6" shapers mounted up. I suppose I should try them without first..

I have emailed them about putting a mark on the factory ski, I got no response back.
 
Im sorry but I have been running these for years .... and I have had zero problem. Works better then a single bar to prevent darting.... A slim jim dually works better in all cases on the same ski but the leading edge still work for me.

Mr. Sled: What is the length of the Slim Jim Dooly carbide that you use on your Nytro?
 
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