Drive axle bearing behind disc brake

[cannondale27]

Puller if needed but honestly the bearing itself being so big a dia is a very good bearing. Is easy to clean and repack it every season by just taking Caliper and disc off. I believe if serviced every year the bearing will last 10,000 mi or more.

Another thing that would help is to shim between the snapring and the brake disk to get that disc to sandwich the bearing inner race tighter. A bolt and cup to replace the snapring would really work well if possible.

 

[STAIN]

Yes, maybe a way to sandwich the whole thing together would work and be easier to do.

 

[stingray719]

Cat Shaft size is 1.768 new

The Bearing ID is 45mm which is 1.7716

Next time mine is off I am going to take a sharp punch and pean it all over like we used to do dirt bikes. My sled was new when I had mine out so I did not notice much play, but I will check it when it comes back out

 

[yamadoo]

Cat Shaft size is 1.768 new

The Bearing ID is 45mm which is 1.7716

Next time mine is off I am going to take a sharp punch and pean it all over like we used to do dirt bikes. My sled was new when I had mine out so I did not notice much play, but I will c

So is your goal to just add some increased circumference by the micro stretching of the surface area to 'tighten it up" or are you also trying to harden the shaft. Both?

 

[stingray719]

So is your goal to just add some increased circumference by the micro stretching of the surface area to 'tighten it up" or are you also trying to harden the shaft. Both?

Goal is to make a bunch of dimples to take up slack, but yeah it does harden it slightly.

 

[TD Max]

Not sure the logic behind Cat not crushing one or both side bearings down tight to the axle shoulder with a bolt and maybe a cup washer? The loose spline/snap ring config on both ends just doesn't seem right to me

 

[deweysgt]

I inspected my bearing at the end of the first season ('14), the sled had about 1900 miles on it. I found the bearing to be almost dry inside (little lube) and not so easy to remove from the shaft but there was no sign of wear on the shaft and the bearing fit perfectly.
Because of past nightmares I've always reassembled this bearing on my Apex with anti seize lube and did the same with the Viper bearing. My thought is I want to be able to disassemble (remove) the bearing next time without any issues. With about 3400 miles on the sled now I recently completed my 2015 inspection of the bearing this year and found no wear and everything came apart as expected.
I understand the idea behind using loctite and I do use this technique in other situations. But in this situation I go the other rout and use anti seize, just my 2 cents worth. It works for me

 

[cannondale27]

I inspected my bearing at the end of the first season ('14), the sled had about 1900 miles on it. I found the bearing to be almost dry inside (little lube) and not so easy to remove from the shaft but there was no sign of wear on the shaft and the bearing fit perfectly.
Because of past nightmares I've always reassembled this bearing on my Apex with anti seize lube and did the same with the Viper bearing. My thought is I want to be able to disassemble (remove) the bearing next time without any issues. With about 3400 miles on the sled now I recently completed my 2015 inspection of the bearing this year and found no wear and everything came apart as expected.
I understand the idea behind using loctite and I do use this technique in other situations. But in this situation I go the other rout and use anti seize, just my 2 cents worth. It works for me

That's good news. Maybe it's not all the shafts that have a sloppy fit leading to wear. Thanks for the update. Haven't gotten mine apart yet other than just greasing it so hoping it's okay.

 

[RTX]

I inspected my bearing at the end of the first season ('14), the sled had about 1900 miles on it. I found the bearing to be almost dry inside (little lube) and not so easy to remove from the shaft but there was no sign of wear on the shaft and the bearing fit perfectly.
Because of past nightmares I've always reassembled this bearing on my Apex with anti seize lube and did the same with the Viper bearing. My thought is I want to be able to disassemble (remove) the bearing next time without any issues. With about 3400 miles on the sled now I recently completed my 2015 inspection of the bearing this year and found no wear and everything came apart as expected.
I understand the idea behind using loctite and I do use this technique in other situations. But in this situation I go the other rout and use anti seize, just my 2 cents worth. It works for me

I understand the point you are trying to make and agree with you on using antiseize on the apex driveshaft bearing. I do the same with my apex, but The difference between the apex and viper is, the apex driveshaft bearing is a slip fit with 2 set screws that lock it onto the shaft and keep it from spinning on the shaft.
The viper driveshaft bearing does not have any type of lock or setscrews. Because of this, any issues with the bearing can cause it to spin on the shaft and damage the shaft.
My preference on my viper would be a small fight with disassembly by loctiting the bearing to the shaft as opposed to replacing a driveshaft because the bearing spun on it.
I view bearings as a wear item with a limited lifespan and i usually replace them any time i remove them, but thats just me.

 

[cannondale27]

RTX it sounds like he does have a tight fit so maybe they aren't all a loose fit. At least I am hoping!

 

[NOS-PRO]

I will measure mine tonight to see and report miles

 

[Dreamsover2]

Wonder why not a recall for this but a recall for <200 15s for brake issue?

 

[cannondale27]

Good news. No measurable wear on mine at 6300 mi. 1.768 in. Does look like it spun at some point but maybe rust and regreasing the bearing every year saved it. I will peen the shaft and put it back together.

To inspect 3 bolts were removed from back of tunnel with a loose track.
Footwell and caliper brace removed.
Clip on driveshaft removed.
Brake line banjo bolt loosened. Mark so it's in correct position when put together.
Whole caliper and disc slid off at once.
To removed disc from assembly for cleaning and regreasing bearing remove pads from caliper and disc slides out bottom of assembly.
Make sure brakeline is in correct position when put back together.

 

[Yamadog]

Not sure the logic behind Cat not crushing one or both side bearings down tight to the axle shoulder with a bolt and maybe a cup washer? The loose spline/snap ring config on both ends just doesn't seem right to me

Yes but remember that Cat is used to owners that put 300 to 500 miles on a year. When us Yamaha guys stepped into their world it added a new dimension to them. I still have buddies on 07 and 08 sleds that have yet to break 2000 miles.

 

[yamadoo]

Yes but remember that Cat is used to owners that put 300 to 500 miles on a year. When us Yamaha guys stepped into their world it added a new dimension to them. I still have buddies on 07 and 08 sleds that have yet to break 2000 miles.

I know what you mean. They talk like they think they are snowmobilers and that 2000 miles is 5 years of good riding leading to a heavily used sled that they will trade in thinking it owes them nothing.

I am mad if I don't get that a year, like last year.