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Driveshaft toast bearing seems OK......

I just put in the black diamond steel shaft and new SKF bearing, it’s a tight fit, had to hit it on half way. I also bought a BOP wedge when I thought I was getting the stock shaft but everywhere was on back order. The BOP wedge does fit the black diamond driveshaft, so I put that in too. Hopefully I’m all set till I have to get the bearing off.

Travis from BOP did post the template for a puller to get the caliper housing off for those who need it. Just search "puller" in box above and you should be able to find it. I made one and it worked great.
 

I just put in the black diamond steel shaft and new SKF bearing, it’s a tight fit, had to hit it on half way. I also bought a BOP wedge when I thought I was getting the stock shaft but everywhere was on back order. The BOP wedge does fit the black diamond driveshaft, so I put that in too. Hopefully I’m all set till I have to get the bearing off.

I asked about this shaft 3 times so far and you're the first to answer.
So the bearing has a snug fit.
I will be replacing my shaft next year & i was leaning towards this part
 
So sounds like you guys got the shaft. Lol. Interested in this problem because My Slingshot suspensions are killing my back. Thanks to this site I have been interested in the Procross chassis 4 Strokes. Yamaha or Cat. I feel your frustration as the Singleshot Suspension is a joke. Glad to hear Diamond Drive offers a better shaft. I agree with your expectations from Yamaha. I would expect better support and quality from them. But now I know better. But the alternatives are worse. Doo & Poo! So I will live with what I have. And happy to have the quality of the Japanese built machines I bought. If I win the lottery. I would have a Procross 4 Stroke 137 with power steering and the King Air suspension. That's my dream sled for right now. As Roy Rogers used to say Happy Trails! Thanks to the advice I got on this site I managed to get rid of the Tuner Skis! Mohawks on mine. Powder Hounds on hers. Thanks for the advice. No more getting stuck?
 
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I just put in the black diamond steel shaft and new SKF bearing, it’s a tight fit, had to hit it on half way. I also bought a BOP wedge when I thought I was getting the stock shaft but everywhere was on back order. The BOP wedge does fit the black diamond driveshaft, so I put that in too. Hopefully I’m all set till I have to get the bearing off.
So did you put your drivers on the new shaft and how much work was it?
 
So did you put your drivers on the new shaft and how much work was it?
I did take mine off and pressed on the new one. My press wasn’t wide enough for the drivers to fit through so I cut my old shaft in half, pressed off the drivers then pressed on new shaft. If you didn’t want to cut the old shaft you would have to cut a piece of pipe length wise and hose clamp it back together and press off both drivers at once but I didn’t care about old shaft. Doing the drivers wasn’t too bad, just take lots of measurements and mark the drivers brake side and chain case side. Remember to only press on the hub of the drivers.
 
Rtbo, Good to here your drivers are changed. I am having tools made for my press for the future. Happy riding.
 
Just thinking out loud here, but I wonder if an exhaust tubing expander would function the same was as the BOP wedge? They are like 10$ at your local Harbor Freight. If it fits that is... the small one looks like it might. Swap the center hex for a grade 10.9 bolt and lock nut and it might be able to expand the driveshaft with enough torque.

Screenshot_20200106-160245.png
 
They addressed the POS roll over valve and left the #*$&@ show on the drive shafts!
exactly what I was thinking! They also updated brake lever, switch-gear, and a few other things since 2017 models that we did not even need!

At least the rollover valve is an easy fix as most of us don't want the oil going back into intake!

Dan
 
Just thinking out loud here, but I wonder if an exhaust tubing expander would function the same was as the BOP wedge? They are like 10$ at your local Harbor Freight. If it fits that is... the small one looks like it might. Swap the center hex for a grade 10.9 bolt and lock nut and it might be able to expand the driveshaft with enough torque.

View attachment 151973

BOP wedge does not expand the shaft like rubber! It only pushed out three sides, in between those three areas that gets pushed out are three areas that get sucked inward. It would take EXTREME pressure to expand the whole shaft, and if that were to happen, it would not retract back inward to get the bearing off at all.
 
BOP wedge does not expand the shaft like rubber! It only pushed out three sides, in between those three areas that gets pushed out are three areas that get sucked inward. It would take EXTREME pressure to expand the whole shaft, and if that were to happen, it would not retract back inward to get the bearing off at all.

I get that the BOP is extremely focused pressure right on the spot the bearing rides. But they only use 30ft/lbs torque to achieve proper clearance fit to the bearing race. An M14 10.9 bolt will take 150lbs torque. Maybe an engineer could calculate the exact psi needed to achieve a .010 dimensional change of the shaft or however much clearance there is.
 
I get that the BOP is extremely focused pressure right on the spot the bearing rides. But they only use 30ft/lbs torque to achieve proper clearance fit to the bearing race. An M14 10.9 bolt will take 150lbs torque. Maybe an engineer could calculate the exact psi needed to achieve a .010 dimensional change of the shaft or however much clearance there is.
It might if shaft is turned to what it should be. Problem is many vary by up to .008 undersized new! .0005-.001 it would.
 
It might if shaft is turned to what it should be. Problem is many vary by up to .008 undersized new! .0005-.001 it would.

Yes that is what some reported, but my new bearing and shaft only had .001 difference. Had to work it on with slight side to side motion for a short while. It came off and on the same. Was not a loose slip fit at all. The repair items were only the shaft and bearings though and not entire unit including drivers and all. I was very surprised after hearing how sloppy the new ones had been manufactured.
 
Wonder if this clearance fit is exacerbated by the fact that the shaft is in contact with cold snow and the bearing race is being heated with operating friction.
 
Yes that is what some reported, but my new bearing and shaft only had .001 difference. Had to work it on with slight side to side motion for a short while. It came off and on the same. Was not a loose slip fit at all. The repair items were only the shaft and bearings though and not entire unit including drivers and all. I was very surprised after hearing how sloppy the new ones had been manufactured.
Funny because my new shaft and bearing was a very tight #%^ fit. I had to really put some elbow grease into it. No way would mine slid on and off. Probably because they are both new? Could they have changed the shaft thickness? Or ?
 
Funny because my new shaft and bearing was a very tight #%^ fit. I had to really put some elbow grease into it. No way would mine slid on and off. Probably because they are both new? Could they have changed the shaft thickness? Or ?[/QUOTE

I would have been told that by my dealer. They know it is a design flaw and it will happen again. I was told to try some loctite, so I did and time will tell.

Yes I did download Travis’s puller template and printed it. Quite a simple piece. Steel plate (3/8”)with 3 holes in it. The holes are made to line up with caliper bolt pattern. Put the plate on end of shaft,
and just screw the bolts in and pull the whole caliper assembly off once you removed the bolts from track side and and take your snap ring off!!

I have bought quite a bit of stuff from that technical inventor/ 4 stroke parts guy so I did not feel like I was steeling it!
 


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