Was hoping you had a code for pickup sensor. Easy fix.
Tknutson58k
Veteran
What's the code number for that
Code 12
Tknutson58k
Veteran
I'll have to look but that may have been 1 of the 6 that were thrown haha. Which pickup sensor is that for? the previous owner said the first time it didn't start when he tried during the summer he said something came up with the TPS but I haven't seen anything to do with that or anything wrong with that.
Tknutson58k
Veteran
If I put a bolt in the breather to plug it and try to crank I hear oil gurgling. Do these have two compression rings and one oil ring?
Tknutson58k
Veteran
Also something else I'd just saw is the line coming off of the fuel pressure regulator is cut at a 45. on any other vehicle I've had that line is a vacuum line and is supposed to be connected not just a drainage line if it fails. The compression seems to be just fine so maybe the pressure I think I hear is actually normal because I guess I've never had this thing not start to hear how it sounds when it doesn't start.
ClutchMaster
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2002 Viper W/162 A.C. skid, SRX pipes &CDI, 780 BB
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You need 2 replace that line! It shouldn’t affect the starting of the engine tho.
Yes they do and your rings are sticking.
In extreme cases like yours I have seen carburetor cleaner work. You need to use the stuff that comes in a can for soaking carbs, not spray can stuff. Take about a quarter Dixie cup and dump it down the plug holes, let it sit overnight. The next day crank the engine over A LOT before replacing the plugs, and trying to start it. You should also drain the bad gas and replace it with new seafoam laidened gas, as the injectors are probably gummed up from sitting.
If I put a bolt in the breather to plug it and try to crank I hear oil gurgling. Do these have two compression rings and one oil ring?
Yes they do and your rings are sticking.
In extreme cases like yours I have seen carburetor cleaner work. You need to use the stuff that comes in a can for soaking carbs, not spray can stuff. Take about a quarter Dixie cup and dump it down the plug holes, let it sit overnight. The next day crank the engine over A LOT before replacing the plugs, and trying to start it. You should also drain the bad gas and replace it with new seafoam laidened gas, as the injectors are probably gummed up from sitting.
Tknutson58k
Veteran
Doesn't seem short on compression, the injectors aren't shooting when I crank, but they do in diagnostic mode. Also having trouble getting the cranking speed past 320 RPM With a new battery and a new starter.
ClutchMaster
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Doesn't seem short on compression, the injectors aren't shooting when I crank, but they do in diagnostic mode. Also having trouble getting the cranking speed past 320 RPM With a new battery and a new starter.
Very little gas will come out when cranking, are you sure there’s no fuel coming out? Have you drained the old gas and put a strong dose of seafoam in?
Tknutson58k
Veteran
I did drain the gas out a couple months ago and put all new in with some sea foam. I've cleaned as many grounds as I could find and starting fluid makes it not even try to fire.
Tknutson58k
Veteran
Progress has been made, kind of. I did get it to start for about a minute but that was with fresh plugs and using a hole hawg on high to turn it over faster. As soon as I let off the throttle it died. Coming to the conclusion that it does not take long for these spark plugs to become fouled to the point that they don't fire properly even though they look perfectly fine so I have number 8 spark plugs coming hopefully that will help keep it running until it can idle on its own.
equillibrium88
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I would check the valves myself. I had left my snowblower in my shed one year without replacing my bait boxes since mice like to camp out in my shed over the winter and eat my grass seed. One of the little bastards managed to sneak into the intake and leave a bunch of nuts or something inside behind the valve. I tried to start the snowblower before realizing this only for it to fart but not start. In the end it was easy to fix but still a pain in the #*$&@ I am just glad it didn't bend the valve.
Tknutson58k
Veteran
So just coming back around to this apparently my thumbs don't hold compression back very well because what I thought to be good compression turned out to be about 40 on the gauge I got the engine out of the sled now and I'm trying to decide if it's going to be cheaper to have the cylinders replated or to buy a whole new crankcase
Add oil and try it again. Maybe it’s just a tight or dirty valve. If it goes up with oil it’s rings if not it’s valves.
Tknutson58k
Veteran
Had the dealer put a bore scope down it and according to the tech he said the nikasil coating is basically gone where the scoring occurred. So being typical me I took it to my trusted tech who has much cheaper hourly rates to see what he comes up with now that he isn't busy fixing 4 wheelers... He had a hard time believing that the nikasil coating could be compromised with how hard it is
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