Exhaust Donuts & Y Pipes....Step by step

[yamahas]

Anybody know what the torque is for the flex pipe bolts into the manifold? I read on here 16 lbs but I snapped a bolt off trying to tighten it that much

What year apex?

 

[spr5088]

I drilled out the rivets in the brAcket.. Should I replace them with OEM or buy different ones from the hardware store? If so, what size rivet should I buy?

 

[actionjack]

My bracket has been bolted for 4 seasons with stainless. No problems.

 

[spr5088]

What size bolt? And did you use all 10 rivet holes?

 

[actionjack]

I do not remember the size but something like 1/4' x 1/2". I did not feel all holes were needed and I think I only used 6 and foil taped the others.

 

[tofast]

I've received PM's about installing new DONUTS and felt this might be a good time for a step by step in detail to have for anyone here wanting to do the job.

TOOLS:
be sure to have a #3 philips(i use a #3 philips socket)as you can easily destroy the large philips black screws if you try to use a normal size screwdriver...also a 3/8'' SWIVEL will HELP to remove the FLEXPIPES from head.

This is the order i would go in for this job for someone new to the apex sleds...Ill try to go into as much detail as I can....

EDITn page 2 of this thread is a ton more pics of installing the donuts and reassembling the sled step by step in detail.
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TEARDOWN

1- remove main hood & sidepanels as usual,set aside.

2- remove chrome trim around handlebar BASE of riser(#3 philips)

3- remove top panel around handlebar riser by undoing four 5mm allen head bolts,turn them one turn counter clockwise to release.also you must remove the igntion key PLASTIC NUT,and just drop the ignition down thru,no need to disconnect wires....pull panel back to unclip from headlight pod and remove off to left side of sled,leaving the AC cigarette lighter wires connected,set off to left side hanging by those wires.

4- now unbolt two bolts of headlight pod,one on each side using a 10mm socket and extension...once these two 10mm bolts are removed you can slide entire headlight pod forward off the two METAL TABS,now you must UNPLUG the TWO WIRE PLUGINS to remove POD entirely from sled,set pod aside carefully.

5- now remove two side shrouds,which are located above each footwell....you will remove three #3 philips screws from both left and right shrouds....remove them and set aside...under the right side shroud is the tailight WIRES,UNPLUG this connection at this time.

6- now you will want to drain tank down...syphon fuel out if you have more then a couple gallons in it,as it may leak....once drained down,remove the large rubber GROMMET around the tank FILLER CAP and set aside....

7- Removal of UPPER TANK PANEL...now you can remove all of the #3 black head screws that hold down the UPPER TANK PANEL(i believe there are four)....and remove upper tank panel from sled and set aside....also reinstall gas cap at this time.

8- NOW remove tailpipe END CAPS be removing two 5mm bolts from each CAP(dont need to remove all 3 as one is a DUMMY)...set caps aside....

9- now remove the tailight shroud by removing two #3 philips screws just below tailight,then unclip each side from tailpipe painted shrouds and pivot entire shroud back and down separating it from the BUMPER shroud....you DO NOT NEED to remove tailpipe painted shrouds OR Bumper shrouds..those can stay on sled.

10- now unbolt the two nuts you see near tailight,that hold seat into main muffler...the nuts are connected to TWO long hook bolts,that connect to seat...remove these nuts allowing seat to slide back and off sled.set seat aside carefully,as it can easily RIP or TEAR material if set down wrong.

11- now you need to remove the fuel lines and wires from rear of fuel tank....start with the rear LINE and wire.....at rear of fuel tank you will see a large black foam peice,just remove and set aside(take note of how it sits before removal)

12- remove the black clip completely from line,set aside....and then you need to unclip the fuel line RED clip,this is a red plastic clip that you must slide outward,this allows the entire LINE to slide off the white plastic nipple....then unplug the elec WIRE PLUGIN also at rear of tank....set the wires and line off to left side of sled out of way.

13- now unbolt two NUTS/washers at rear of tank,that hold the tank to tunnel...now slide the entire tank backwards out from under frame,you also need to pull off the clear BREATHER TUBE near top front of tank....pull back just abit on tank,as you now need to unplug one more elec plugin near fron left side of tank.....and now you also need to remove one more FUEL RETURN LINE,which goes from front right side of tank to FUEL RAIL on motor...Disconnect this fuel return line FROM FUEL RAIL(not tank)...its easier this way....now tank should be free from sled,remove tank and set aside.

14- now remove 4 bolts that hold silver aluminum heat shield on,which are now in plain site.....careful not to drop bolts down into bellypan,remove the heat shield entirely from sled.set aside.

15- now you want to remove 4 rubber grommets from tunnel...two are round and two are oval in shape,pop all 4 out of tunnel.....the two closest to the motor are allen bolts that bolt the Y pipes to tunnel,and loosening these will allow entire Y pipes to slide back(loosen them off now).....the other two further back on tunnel are where the clamps hold the Y pipes to remaining section of exhaust...you also need to loosen these off to allow the sliding rearward of Y pipes....

16- now undo the 4 clamps that connect flexpipes to Y pipes....some have said that they have seen these swiveled downward,so you might need to use a large channel lock to swivel them around to get a allen wrench socket on them....undo them and remove from sled.

17- now you need to slide the Y pipes back away from the Flexpipes...sometimes abit tricky to do...you need some room here to remove the flexpipes easily.

18- now with enough room ,you can remove the 8 bolts that hold flexpipes to motor head....remove these using a swivel socket if you have one,otherwise tough to get the angle right(these go back on with 16lbs of torque later)....some have removed the donuts without removing flexpipes from motor,however its very tricky to do and you can very easily damage the new donuts installing them this way..so for the 2 minutes it took me to remove all four pipes from head i feel this is best...and you can re use the copper flexpipes gasket with no issues.

19- once all 4 flexpipes are removed,you can truly inspect the Y pipe flanges with a mirror and light for cracks..also inspect flexpipes to any cracks too....you can remove the spent donuts now and replace....I will be using a light bead/layer of ultra copper Hi temp silicone on each side of the donut,where it seats into Y and FLEX pipes,IMO this MAY help to reduce WEAR on these donuts....I do not FEEL it is smart to grind down the clamps to get them tighter,as IMO i think this MAY lead to clamps grinding into the expensive Y pipes....but you can use your own judgment here.
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I think that should cover it all....obviously you should be able to reverse the order above to put sled back together...I know it sounds like alot when you read this,but I have gone into much detail here to help with simple items...

EDITn page 2 of this thread is a ton more pics of installing the donuts and reassembling the sled step by step in detail.

I wanted to write this up so ANYONE with little APEX/ATTACK knowledge would be able to do this job easily......I feel now with more of us getting miles on these models,we are all seeing the DONUT WEAR issue...and some are seeing cracked Y pipes...so this may help us TYers all save some cash and learn alot about how nicely these sleds are put together and can be torn down in litterally minutes once done a few times.

Dan

I no we are beating a dead horse buy asking this question I have o6 rtx and has 2000 miles need no what part number I need for the best donut gaskets I am going just take my sled apart to do the job so please help thanks

 

[spr5088]

Sledtoyz.com has the copper donuts

 

[tofast]

My bracket has been bolted for 4 seasons with stainless. No problems.

Wear do I get the bracket my 06 dose not have one

 

[apex nate]

Are the donuts easier to replace on the 2011 and up apex's. Thank you.

 

[rxrider]

No, it's the same hassle as always With the 4 cylinder engines.

 

[Sidewinder]

Great read thanks , I just finished taking mine apart .
3 out of 4 donuts are perfect , one is junk , all of my pieces from the head to the pipe are perfect , BUT the 2nd in from the left the part the doughnut seals on has a crack and that is the one the seal is not good on .
Is that weldable? or should I just buy a new exhaust system?

 

[MrSled]

Great read thanks , I just finished taking mine apart .
3 out of 4 donuts are perfect , one is junk , all of my pieces from the head to the pipe are perfect , BUT the 2nd in from the left the part the doughnut seals on has a crack and that is the one the seal is not good on .
Is that weldable? or should I just buy a new exhaust system?

Depends on the year. If its Titanium you may as well get a new system. The new style is SS its not to bad a price considering what Titanium Costs.

 

[Sidewinder]

Depends on the year. If its Titanium you may as well get a new system. The new style is SS its not to bad a price considering what Titanium Costs.

Its a 2006 RTX.

 

[MrSled]

Its a 2006 RTX.

Those for sure are titanium. May as well replace them both with stainless.

 

[Sidewinder]

The flanges off the head are fine, it's where they meet the pipe under the tunnel.
The female side as it would be said.