Exhaust/muffler removal

[steveg_nh]

So the bolts I circled are the correct ones meaning both have to come out. That's what you're saying? At least I'll have the skid half out.

 

[CaptCaper]

Yes the ones you circled...There are two more way up front ( so three down each side) that go into the front pivot arm. You can leave them in and just drop the #*$&@ end if you want. But when putting the skid back in either way you should loosen the transfer rod at the base so the skid will collapse enough get it back up and lined up. Put the upper wheel bolts in last or the track will fight you.
I'm off to bed now and will be gone all day tomorrow. Good luck..

 

[steveg_nh]

I need to brush up on all the terms. I'm not clear on what the transfer rod is.

 

[steiner]

 

[steveg_nh]

Excellent thank you. I've always had torsion skids before.

 

[CaptCaper]

Also if you drop the skid intirelly you put the front two bolts in first. Then the rear ones then the upper wheel bolts. hook up transfer rod. Good thing about your machine there are tons' of articles ,how to's etc. here after many years..

 

[steveg_nh]

There are. It's great. I plan on taking the entire skid out for maintenance and to replace all wear bearings and hyfax. I plan on adding the 4th wheel kit too. Should I get that direct from Yamaha? I see some folks sell them but not sure if they are oem parts. I like oem.

 

[CaptCaper]

There are. It's great. I plan on taking the entire skid out for maintenance and to replace all wear bearings and hyfax. I plan on adding the 4th wheel kit too. Should I get that direct from Yamaha? I see some folks sell them but not sure if they are oem parts. I like oem.

If the wheels are oem them you'll find them or some non replaceable bearings. Yami changed that afterwords. You can get the newer wheels from Port Yamaha Kevin is great in giving you just what you need. I did that. I can't remember which are or aren't but you'll find out or ask Kevin. The OEM from yami or ebay is the way to go. Some made there own and there is directions here but you have to be precise.. that's not me. Ha.
Great machine we have tho.. I had a 07 Attak bought new..from LLcote in 07. put 9998 miles on it..not one issue besides pipes wheels and arm bushings.
I bought another one with 800 miles on it and now have close to or 8k .. I took the wheels,etc. off old one onto this one and sold the other one.. so it cost me about $$500 to get into a machine with 800 miles and upgraded parts. I was happy.. I'm about or thinking of doing the same again as you know. Neigbhor has 07 Gt with 2700 miles wants $3700. New studs,duallys,cooler garaged..nice clean machine.

 

[steveg_nh]

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone. Got it done today. Piece of cake once the skid was out. All done and MICH quieter. I also made sure the bushing that's behind the tank is in good shape. No play at all. Good to go.

 

[CaptCaper]

Great to hear.. How'd you put the skid in? Front bolts first like I said?

 

[steveg_nh]

Not back in yet. Doing all the bearings and hyfax. But I will yes.

 

[Teamblue4]

That is a mountain Apex muffler, do you have the correct exhaust tips for that?

 

[steveg_nh]

Gulp. Uh oh. Probably not. I have the same ones that were on the sled. Is the only difference between the mountain exhaust and regular the tips? It fit like a glove so far. Please don't tell me I'll have a problem and can't use this.

 

[Teamblue4]

yes you can use that muffler, the only difference is the black tips that bolt on.

 

[steveg_nh]

Whew. Although, I just bought two new tips because the original ones were all scratched! LOL. Shopping again I guess.

Is the only reason the regular Attak tips can't be used because of the longer neck beyond the mounting plate? Couldn't you just use a pipe cutter and shorten them down so they are like the regular exhaust?

As for internals, I assume the sound level and all is identical because this exhaust (mountain) and the regular apex exhaust. Is that correct?

Thanks