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flat spot on driven roller


Picked up the cat torlon rollers yesterday. Only about 70 miles on my sled so far...but figured as preventative maintenance I'd switch them out before any flat spots happen. Haven't had this yamaha secondary clutch apart yet. I see the 3 torx head screws near the roller...how do you remove the pin that the roller sits on? Probably a dumb question..but just want to ask before I take apart. I usually pony up and buy a service manual for all the sleds I own...but none available yet from local dealer.
 
Picked up the cat torlon rollers yesterday. Only about 70 miles on my sled so far...but figured as preventative maintenance I'd switch them out before any flat spots happen. Haven't had this yamaha secondary clutch apart yet. I see the 3 torx head screws near the roller...how do you remove the pin that the roller sits on? Probably a dumb question..but just want to ask before I take apart. I usually pony up and buy a service manual for all the sleds I own...but none available yet from local dealer.
they should almost fall out. i used a paperclip from behind to start them moving. clean any loctite out first or they aren't gonna slide out.
 
1 mile in the back field, pulled the secondary, notice the pic that doesn't have full roller mark, the roller is free floating and can spin by finger easily at rest! The other two rest on ramp can not spin and shows full roller mark. If I get time going to pull it apart and digitize helix angles,centers and rollers to find out what's the issue.
Junk.jpg
junk 2.jpg
 
After digital measuring with a "Faro-arm probe" the helix is way out of wack! The one free float roller is not even the same curve radi. So its a junk helix "casting", all rollers need to be touching when only two roller under tourque causes sheves to flex warp. Plus the bushing with the allowed factory slop makes it even worse.
This is my clutch! only 1 mile ive not rode enough to conclude if I would have the issues some are having.
 
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After digital measuring with a "Faro-arm probe" the helix is way out of wack! The one free float roller is not even the same curve radi. So its a juck helix "casting", all rollers need to be touching when only two roller under tourque causes sheves to flex warp. Plus the bushing with the allowed factory slop makes it even worse.
This is my clutch! only 1 mile ive not rode enough to conclude if I would have the issues some are having.

one of mine does not touch either, noticed i could spin it with the new rollers installed.
 
I have the Torlon rollers on both my 2012 F1100 Turbo and on my 2014 XF800. The F1100 turbo has 3500 boosted miles on it and the rollers appear fine. Not sure why Yamaha went a different direction.
 
Okay guys... here is my come back... tried torlon roller today. Man its really smoother than oem roller. Work very well. I going to a trip tomorrow and will test again much more. But so far. ... 200km today with it and still good and work very well ! Very happy to have read this tip and tried it. Thanks ty guys!!!

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I ran 125 miles today with the cat rollers and clutch set at 6-1 and the sled was awesome. Anytime I punched it it would swing 8750 to 8900. Lots of on and off wot runs on the R/R grades. No issues so far.


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After digital measuring with a "Faro-arm probe" the helix is way out of wack! The one free float roller is not even the same curve radi. So its a junk helix "casting", all rollers need to be touching when only two roller under tourque causes sheves to flex warp. Plus the bushing with the allowed factory slop makes it even worse.
This is my clutch! only 1 mile ive not rode enough to conclude if I would have the issues some are having.

Guess my helix is scrap too. Checked my rollers today for flat spots before my first ride. Zero miles on my sled and only 1 roller is contacting helix......other 2 rollers are free floating and I can spin them with my fingers while at rest. I will take a closer look tomorrow but this has got to cause binding and or abnormal wear....
 
one on my dad's and my sled spin as well.
 
After digital measuring with a "Faro-arm probe" the helix is way out of wack! The one free float roller is not even the same curve radi. So its a junk helix "casting", all rollers need to be touching when only two roller under tourque causes sheves to flex warp. Plus the bushing with the allowed factory slop makes it even worse.
This is my clutch! only 1 mile ive not rode enough to conclude if I would have the issues some are having.


I think SuperTurbo may have solved the primary cause of the flat spots on the driven rollers!!

I was finally able to get a few miles on my Sidewinder today and checked my rollers after my ride. While everything is static I can spin 2 of the 3 rollers with my fingers.....only one roller is contacting the helix. The roller that is contacting the helix has the full travel roller contact track on the helix. The other 2 rollers that I can spin with my fingers do not have complete contact throughout their travel on the helix. The roller that is in contact with the helix and I cannot spin with my finger is already beginning to get a flat spot on it only after a few miles. Makes sense......this roller that is beginning to get a flat spot is getting loaded up more than the other 2 rollers....

Admittedly the Yamaha rollers are softer than the Cat rollers but I really think the primary cause of the flat rollers is a poorly cast / machined helix as SuperTurbo determined. Pressure or force is not being dispersed evenly amongst all 3 rollers. I would recommend checking roller contact on your helix. Guess I am in the market for an aftermarket helix with much better tolerances.
 


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