upei93
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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2009 Nytro XTX
Need to replace the front end bushings on my XTX and I'm looking for some opinions on different options. I know about Ulmer’s and Pioneer performance bushing kits…I have warrantee but I refuse to put the OEM ones back in even if they are free unless they have been improved. So any comments on the above mentioned kits or other options would be appreciated. Thanks!!
APEX 06
TY 4 Stroke God
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Go with Ulmer’s they are the best for the cost.
dirkdiggler
Suspended
upei93 said:Need to replace the front end bushings on my XTX and I'm looking for some opinions on different options. I know about Ulmer’s and Pioneer performance bushing kits…I have warrantee but I refuse to put the OEM ones back in even if they are free unless they have been improved. So any comments on the above mentioned kits or other options would be appreciated. Thanks!!
I installed the Ulmer Bushings last year. The OEM bushings are junk.
xf800spro
Extreme
How old are your sleds and how many miles? That's just crazy that Yami doesn't put better bushings in for the price they are getting for the sleds.
upei93
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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- 2015 Viper X-TX LE MPI turbo
2009 Nytro XTX
xf800spro said:How old are your sleds and how many miles? That's just crazy that Yami doesn't put better bushings in for the price they are getting for the sleds.
Mine is an 09 with about 3000 miles...when instaling my Roest skid plate I checked the a-arms while the front end was off the ground, the free play was enough that I could see the top of the a-arms move from side to side.
grizztracks
Tech Advisor
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I installed Pioneer Performance bushings in my Vector and they've held up well. I was going to install them in my Nytro but Pioneer didn't have any in stock and according to Bruce won't until this fall so I installed Ulmers instead.
If you go with Ulmer bushings be careful when installing the upper a-arm set. The bushing flange is thin and cracks very easy.
If you go with Ulmer bushings be careful when installing the upper a-arm set. The bushing flange is thin and cracks very easy.
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
upei93 said:xf800spro said:How old are your sleds and how many miles? That's just crazy that Yami doesn't put better bushings in for the price they are getting for the sleds.
Mine is an 09 with about 3000 miles...when instaling my Roest skid plate I checked the a-arms while the front end was off the ground, the free play was enough that I could see the top of the a-arms move from side to side.
X2 about 3000 miles and the bushings are shot, tie rods/ball joints are loose, and exhaust donuts were shot as well.
Got a set of ulmer bushings to put in this fall. We're not sure what to do about the tie rod ends/ball joints... probably going to look into one of the options that allows them to be greasable
upei93
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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2009 Nytro XTX
We're not sure what to do about the tie rod ends/ball joints... probably going to look into one of the options that allows them to be greasable.
Any ideas??? Grease would be nice!!
If you go with Ulmer bushings be careful when installing the upper a-arm set. The bushing flange is thin and cracks very easy.
Thanks for the tip! I had contacted you about your subframe kit but went with the Roest skid plate and can't see how I could make both work (I don't want to drill into the tube). Any ideas??
Any ideas??? Grease would be nice!!
If you go with Ulmer bushings be careful when installing the upper a-arm set. The bushing flange is thin and cracks very easy.
Thanks for the tip! I had contacted you about your subframe kit but went with the Roest skid plate and can't see how I could make both work (I don't want to drill into the tube). Any ideas??
Im on my 3rd set of stockers this year. My 08 has 2k miles now and 1600 was this year. Every ball joint is bad and bushings are gone. We need a better ball joint option!
grizztracks
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upei93 said:Thanks for the tip! I had contacted you about your subframe kit but went with the Roest skid plate and can't see how I could make both work (I don't want to drill into the tube). Any ideas??
I would not recommend drilling any holes in the subframe. If you bolt the skid plate to the 09 center gusset plate I'd install the Roest plate then tack weld the two mounting nuts to the center gusset before welding in the subframe support gusset. I'm thinking about installing the Roest skid plate also but I've already welded in my gussets. I'll install nutserts or use speed nuts on the center gusset if I can't reach in through the hole to tack the nuts.
I don't believe the skid plate will add any strength to the frame but I like the protection it provides for the motor.
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
upei93 said:We're not sure what to do about the tie rod ends/ball joints... probably going to look into one of the options that allows them to be greasable.
Any ideas??? Grease would be nice!!
If you go with Ulmer bushings be careful when installing the upper a-arm set. The bushing flange is thin and cracks very easy.
Thanks for the tip! I had contacted you about your subframe kit but went with the Roest skid plate and can't see how I could make both work (I don't want to drill into the tube). Any ideas??
I know there is a place that is making better ball joints that are greasable, but I will have to find the thread again that had the link and phone number. If I find it I'll let you know. I'm not in too big of a hurry though, since I found the fix to all of these problems... a new ski-doo!
haha, sorry, I couldn't help myself, but I'll find the thread and let you know.
revster
TY 4 Stroke God
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sleddingfarmer said:upei93 said:We're not sure what to do about the tie rod ends/ball joints... probably going to look into one of the options that allows them to be greasable.
Any ideas??? Grease would be nice!!
If you go with Ulmer bushings be careful when installing the upper a-arm set. The bushing flange is thin and cracks very easy.
Thanks for the tip! I had contacted you about your subframe kit but went with the Roest skid plate and can't see how I could make both work (I don't want to drill into the tube). Any ideas??
I know there is a place that is making better ball joints that are greasable, but I will have to find the thread again that had the link and phone number. If I find it I'll let you know. I'm not in too big of a hurry though, since I found the fix to all of these problems... a new ski-doo!
haha, sorry, I couldn't help myself, but I'll find the thread and let you know.
Oh yeah trust me ski-doos are completely void of any wear-and-tear issues.
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
revster said:sleddingfarmer said:upei93 said:We're not sure what to do about the tie rod ends/ball joints... probably going to look into one of the options that allows them to be greasable.
Any ideas??? Grease would be nice!!
If you go with Ulmer bushings be careful when installing the upper a-arm set. The bushing flange is thin and cracks very easy.
Thanks for the tip! I had contacted you about your subframe kit but went with the Roest skid plate and can't see how I could make both work (I don't want to drill into the tube). Any ideas??
I know there is a place that is making better ball joints that are greasable, but I will have to find the thread again that had the link and phone number. If I find it I'll let you know. I'm not in too big of a hurry though, since I found the fix to all of these problems... a new ski-doo!
haha, sorry, I couldn't help myself, but I'll find the thread and let you know.
Oh yeah trust me ski-doos are completely void of any wear-and-tear issues.
haha, yeah, its going to be an interesting year... if I break down a lot, I'll never live it down!
here is one number I found for a greasable ball joint, I'll probably just use these
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... all+joints
whitedreamz
Newbie
What's the best way to install the Ulmer bushings back into the A-arms ?
And should i put some type of lube on everything when putting back together?
And should i put some type of lube on everything when putting back together?
grizztracks
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whitedreamz said:What's the best way to install the Ulmer bushings back into the A-arms ?
a bushing driver set works the best but you can drive them in with a socket and hammer. make sure you keep them squared up with the a-arm and be careful with the smaller ones, the flange is thin and brakes easily.
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