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How many have bought the Hurricane alignment tool ,and used it .?


So are you saying the info you are supplying and Dave is supplying will not work for the guys in the Mountains or off trail riding that have belt issues? To me it makes sense as the belt slips and gets heating fast when on and off hard throttle at lower RPMS all the time in the deep snow.
I’m not saying it’s not going to work for everyone but I have seen a 3 now where we shaved them down and the same results with uneven belt wear after a half a day of riding. I could see the argument of deflection too tight if it was wore evenly across the belt, but clearly it’s not.
 
Lol. That is an alignment issue!!!Some people should come ride in the mountains where there is max stress instead of trails. Weird that I put back to stock and it’s fine.

Its an alignment issue at idle and engagement. One way to PROPERLY fix it, is to shim for belt deflection inside the secondary sheaves using old Arctic Cat belt deflection shims and then remove the large washer on the outside of the helix. Use a washer only big enough to let the driven float a couple of mm.

Just putting shims behind the driven to move the driven outward is the wrong thing to do. You are now making the alignment is off and outward at 1:1 shift ratio to make up for the wear on the inside of your belt at idle.

Perfect case here to let the driven float when you run extreme low track speeds.


So are you saying the info you are supplying and Dave is supplying will not work for the guys in the Mountains or off trail riding that have belt issues? To me it makes sense as the belt slips and gets heating fast when on and off hard throttle at lower RPMS all the time in the deep snow.

The problem they are having is alignment is off at idle because Yamaha had the idiotic idea to control belt deflection on the end of the driven and push the float back towards the bearing. Not many people run that slow very often at engagement speed because the belt is slipping constantly at that very low ratio.

The Hurricane bar is properly setting them up for correct alignment at 1:1 where its important to be set for belt live and longetivity. What is happen here is float is not happening properly for these guys at that low speed as the deflection is being controlled with adjuster that some have added or the large factory washer that controls deflection. The wear is to the inside of the belt as can be seen. This way of setting deflection takes the float out of it as the belt is at an idle. Its a poor way to set deflection for this type of scenario.
 
Knappattack what would you recommend for the belt slipping at low speeds?
 
Its an alignment issue at idle and engagement. One way to PROPERLY fix it, is to shim for belt deflection inside the secondary sheaves using old Arctic Cat belt deflection shims and then remove the large washer on the outside of the helix. Use a washer only big enough to let the driven float a couple of mm.

Just putting shims behind the driven to move the driven outward is the wrong thing to do. You are now making the alignment is off and outward at 1:1 shift ratio to make up for the wear on the inside of your belt at idle.

Perfect case here to let the driven float when you run extreme low track speeds.




The problem they are having is alignment is off at idle because Yamaha had the idiotic idea to control belt deflection on the end of the driven and push the float back towards the bearing. Not many people run that slow very often at engagement speed because the belt is slipping constantly at that very low ratio.

The Hurricane bar is properly setting them up for correct alignment at 1:1 where its important to be set for belt live and longetivity. What is happen here is float is not happening properly for these guys at that low speed as the deflection is being controlled with adjuster that some have added or the large factory washer that controls deflection. The wear is to the inside of the belt as can be seen. This way of setting deflection takes the float out of it as the belt is at an idle. Its a poor way to set deflection for this type of scenario.

Makes perfect sense.
 
I thought of that. But the sidewinder dam near runs out of gear the way it is.
 
I thought of that. But the sidewinder dam near runs out of gear the way it is.

Well you have to remain fast enough to keep the clutch engaged enough on the belt to keep from slipping, this includes on decel. If you don't this is where the heat and wear comes from way down low at slow speeds.

Myself, I don't even stop at stop signs, I roll thru when possible and always keep the clutches engaged at all times. Low speed slippage creates extreme heat and wear on components.
 
My top speed is 50 mph(track speed) when I'm riding. Even riding out on the trail that is damn near my speed, I might hit 60 here and there

I thought of that. But the sidewinder dam near runs out of gear the way it is.

I live in north idaho and mainly ride the trees. I dont claim to be a clutching expert but I do know alignment, it's what I do for work. I also know that on my last ride I moved my secondary in .060 like the tool I bought said to. It made my problem worse. So I put it back out to where it was stock and the clutches were cooler. It is still doglegged into the motor on the secondary. I have checked everything, nothing else shows bad. So on Friday I am gonna take it out and start shimming it out 1mm at a time and see if it eliminates my issue.

Get it lined up perfect @ engagement and let us know how that works out for ya.
Question Jacob, as the belts move to different diameters on said sheaves, do they both move the same amount laterally?
 
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Just put on 900km this past weekend after using the hurricane bar, running the ultimax xs825 belt. Rode hard tight twisty trails, some nice power lines and constantly on and off the throttle and multiple WOT lake runs on the 270 race tune and everything held up great, clutches were the coolest I had ever felt, could of been it was also -40 degrees with wind chill.
 
So i am not having an issue with my deflection, I am not having the inside of my belt wearing either. Where my clutches were set at stock were 61mm. i rode it a few days with no issues until i rode a day where we got a couple of feet of very heavy snow and i blew 2 belts in 25 miles. So I ordered the alignment bar and set my clutches up to the bar and the go-no go tool. (i had to move my secondary in .085) i was only able to move it in .060(i pulled the c-clip in front of the bearing) Then I took it for a ride. Snow was about 1 1/2 feet deep of powder on top of a good base off trail. on the road it was hard pack. before i jumped off the road i checked my clutch temps from the road ride and my clutches were pretty hot especially my inside primary sheave. once i left the road i could only ride for a few minutes until my clutches were smoking hot and i started to delaminate the left side of my belt . So i went back to my truck and decided to put the c-clip back in and take it for a ride up the road to see if i noticed a difference in clutch temps.(i also checked my clutches when i got back to the truck/they were fairly hot again) I waited for the clutches to fully cool then wnet up the road 2 miles riding it mellow like i did coming down then i stopped and checked clutches, much cooler. So I turned around and ran the hell out of it back to the truck in and out of the thottle alot. when i checked the clutches they were still pretty cool. So I cannot move my secondary in to reduce my offset= high clutch temp=blown belts
So I am going to slowly work the other way because so far i am seeing a positive result going that way. I am going to push it out 1mm at a time from where i am now(stock setting) and see if it reduces temps.
I have checked this sled over for the last coupe of weeks and cannot find anything worn, broke , loose, out of alignment (parralism , or offset) if this does not fix it i will be taking it to the dealer.
 


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