The 153 Alpha I rode did 65mph max fully shifted. So shoot for less than that gear wise. Look for snow intrusion and use flat weights for smooth early engagement
PowderFalcon
Pinnin' it!
has anyone considered snow dust getting into the clutch compartment as a cause for belt issues? If there is moisture on the belt/sheaves, can this cause belt failure? (i am asking!)
I noticed a lot of cracks and voids in the and around the plastics where they join where snow could definitely get in both when riding pow like the mountain guys or behind someone on the trail. look around the upper shock and A-arm mounts and also lower in the side panel where it meets the chassis. lots of potential for snow to get in there. should these voids be sealed up?
Food for thought
I noticed a lot of cracks and voids in the and around the plastics where they join where snow could definitely get in both when riding pow like the mountain guys or behind someone on the trail. look around the upper shock and A-arm mounts and also lower in the side panel where it meets the chassis. lots of potential for snow to get in there. should these voids be sealed up?
Food for thought
ROCKERDAN
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has anyone considered snow dust getting into the clutch compartment as a cause for belt issues? If there is moisture on the belt/sheaves, can this cause belt failure? (i am asking!)
I noticed a lot of cracks and voids in the and around the plastics where they join where snow could definitely get in both when riding pow like the mountain guys or behind someone on the trail. look around the upper shock and A-arm mounts and also lower in the side panel where it meets the chassis. lots of potential for snow to get in there. should these voids be sealed up?
Food for thought
Not sure about it with belt life...
But I will say, in the recent ultra cold temps...riding close, more snow dust then ever lingers. I had most ice on intercooler then anything previous, and morning 2, my tie rods would barely move, as ice/slush had formed at very bottom of rubber boots where tie rods and A arms enter boots, and were solid blocks...Steering was hard all day. I spent some time with hairblower yesterday melting it all out. I have never had this before, only these cold temps had fine enough snowdust to do this.
Also, when sun sets....coming home, the fine snowdust lingers so badly, Hi beam LED headlight, becomes like driving thru fog. So had to back off til dust settled. grrr
Dan
Jacob Hinrichs
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Hurricane bar is accurate for belt alignment at 1:1. Set it up like this and let the driven float outward 1.5mm and it will line up at engagement. Pull the clutch guard off and look at how it all works. You will see. If you are inclined, line it all up without springs or at least a very soft spring in the driven and mock it up and line it all up. You will understand it all better.
The problem you are having is severe slippage at engagement speed now, and fighting how the factory belt deflection operates with the large washer pushing the driven completely inward at low speed on the helix.
Eliminate the factory style deflection adjustment pushing on the helix, set it up for old style Cat reverse deflection washers in between the secondary sheaves for belt deflection, float the driven a couple mm so it lines up at engagement after setting it up with the Hurricane bar. It also has to line up at 1:1 shift ratio too. Here is the problem with floating though. If the driven sticks outward and does not float inward under power and 1:1 or full shift, it will still pop belts from misalignment if it sticks outward under power from the float outwards.
Keep in mind a winder is not made to go slow and idle around slipping the clutch and belt either. They are geared way to high for that slow speed stuff. There is no difference on how this works, whether its a mountain sled or a trail sled. Its all the same mechanically.
I understand what you are saying to do, but if I bring my secondary in that far(where the hurricane tool) tells me to, the secondary would have to be able to float out (away from the motor) at a minimum 4mm or more to line up at engagement. I have the clutch guard pulled off and see how it is all lined up or not for that matter, lol
Any snow melts on clutches and will cause belt to stick in too high ratio.
alpineviper
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Never really had any snow melt on the clutches to the point where they slipped bad enough where I noticed. Even on this day.
They won’t slip. They will stick then smoke.Never really had any snow melt on the clutches to the point where they slipped bad enough where I noticed. Even on this day.
View attachment 145234
alpineviper
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Forgot to put my panel on one day after letting it cool down. It slipped.
alpineviper
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has anyone considered snow dust getting into the clutch compartment as a cause for belt issues? If there is moisture on the belt/sheaves, can this cause belt failure? (i am asking!)
I noticed a lot of cracks and voids in the and around the plastics where they join where snow could definitely get in both when riding pow like the mountain guys or behind someone on the trail. look around the upper shock and A-arm mounts and also lower in the side panel where it meets the chassis. lots of potential for snow to get in there. should these voids be sealed up?
Food for thought
I have taken silicone and filled as many voids as I could and have never really get much snow or ice around the steering linkages to the point where the steering is stiff.
WVTurboLTX
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I've been on here for 3 or 4 years now and just this minute realised that you could do this.Lol I'm retarded
ROCKERDAN
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Just moved mine outward to 58mm now, as It was rubbing at full shift. Grrr. Just goes to show these clutches overshift without ever hitting 126mph. Added back in 1mm of float for a test and went to 6/3 with B/O(90degrees) for testing.
Also made a new clutch vent and CAI design.
Dan
Also made a new clutch vent and CAI design.
Dan
1049triple
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Dan, is there a minimum amount of shim needed before the sheaves start to separate?
Or what total thickness is needed for about correct deflection?
I am far away of my sled so I cannot mesure before ordering.
Thanks
Or what total thickness is needed for about correct deflection?
I am far away of my sled so I cannot mesure before ordering.
Thanks
Hammer70
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Dan do you have any pics were it’s hitting. I’m going to pull mine apart and see if any issues hitting.Just moved mine outward to 58mm now, as It was rubbing at full shift. Grrr. Just goes to show these clutches overshift without ever hitting 126mph. Added back in 1mm of float for a test and went to 6/3 with B/O(90degrees) for testing.
Also made a new clutch vent and CAI design.
Dan
Thanks Pan
1049triple
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Sorry I was talking using old Arctic Cat shims betwen the sheaves to set deflection. Just added as my post was missing information.
OK maybe so but when mine got wet it sucked belt down in secondary and it would not return. You will spin the belt at that point and yes then it will slip like crazy. Smoke too. Like trying to take off in 6th gear. This was extreme. Point is this could be happening and you may not even notice. Like taking off in 3rd on a Dirtbike. Enough throttle and it works well but a sled will never work well taking off shifted out at all. Just a suggestion. Lot of other reasons for keeping snow out also.Forgot to put my panel on one day after letting it cool down. It slipped.
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