YamaDom
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I purchased a 2017 Sidewinder xtx Le this fall with 1000 miles on it and noticed it had some belt fragments in the belly pan so I ordered a offset tool from hurricane to check alignment. Have a couple questions for the people that have used the tool. I'll add pictures at the bottom of the post to explain the questions.
The first picture is the measurement with the tool before machining, no washer behind the secondary but bearing circlip still in. Measured out to a little over 4mm. I wanted to make sure I didn't machine off too much so I got 3mm machined off. The second picture is the tool reinstalled with 3mm machined and I removed the bearing circlip to get the gauge to fit closer. It's hard to tell from the picture but I can still wiggle it maybe 0.5mm.
I'm just debating whether to run it the way it is without shims or circlip behind the clutch or machine another 1mm off the hub and maybe put back in the circlip? I'm a little hesitant to machine more off the hub as when the clutch is fully shifted out its flush with the sheave. (3rd picture)
4th and 5th picture is of the clutch bolt plug. It was flush with the clutch before machining and the bolt with washer fit tight against the clutch. Do I have to machine the same amount off the plug?
Last picture is of the stock spring. Does it look like it had some coil bind? Does the Dalton Black/orange spring fix the coil bind problem or is there some machining needed there as well?
The first picture is the measurement with the tool before machining, no washer behind the secondary but bearing circlip still in. Measured out to a little over 4mm. I wanted to make sure I didn't machine off too much so I got 3mm machined off. The second picture is the tool reinstalled with 3mm machined and I removed the bearing circlip to get the gauge to fit closer. It's hard to tell from the picture but I can still wiggle it maybe 0.5mm.
I'm just debating whether to run it the way it is without shims or circlip behind the clutch or machine another 1mm off the hub and maybe put back in the circlip? I'm a little hesitant to machine more off the hub as when the clutch is fully shifted out its flush with the sheave. (3rd picture)
4th and 5th picture is of the clutch bolt plug. It was flush with the clutch before machining and the bolt with washer fit tight against the clutch. Do I have to machine the same amount off the plug?
Last picture is of the stock spring. Does it look like it had some coil bind? Does the Dalton Black/orange spring fix the coil bind problem or is there some machining needed there as well?
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KnappAttack
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I'm betting your stub shaft has moved in after blowing a belt or two. Pop the clutch and have a look, you'll see a gap on the housing where the bearing has slid in. If so pop the stub shaft out, clean up and use green loctite on assembly.
You'll need to machine the plug depending on where you end up once you get the stub shaft back where it belongs. (Hint, that its moved), they shouldn't need that much machined off when stub is in proper position! You could end up wearing sheave on bearing housing if you don't get it setup properly.
Rubbing paint off on one coil behind the hook is not coil binding. All coils on both sides will show signs of paint gone if its coil binding. Dalton Black/Orange will not come close to coil bind if you want to go that route.
You'll need to machine the plug depending on where you end up once you get the stub shaft back where it belongs. (Hint, that its moved), they shouldn't need that much machined off when stub is in proper position! You could end up wearing sheave on bearing housing if you don't get it setup properly.
Rubbing paint off on one coil behind the hook is not coil binding. All coils on both sides will show signs of paint gone if its coil binding. Dalton Black/Orange will not come close to coil bind if you want to go that route.
YamaDom
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ClutchMaster
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Remove the entire bearings housing and stub shaft. Press out the stub from the bearing and the bearing from the housing. Clean with brake cleaner and use green 609 lock tight, made to strengthen press fits. Inter and outer race.
Then I would lap the clutch taper, Knapp can tell ya what he uses? I use fine valve lapping compound, eBay is your friend.
Then I would lap the clutch taper, Knapp can tell ya what he uses? I use fine valve lapping compound, eBay is your friend.
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ClutchMaster
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I doesn’t look like the bearing moved much in the housing but it could have moved on the shaft. You can’t really tell if the shaft has moved in the bearing but I would say yes with it being that far off.
rtx moose
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just go buy a new one for what its worth,thats an area not worth a band-aid!!!
ClutchMaster
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New what? Band aid? What other options does he have to lock the bearing and shaft in place?just go buy a new one for what its worth,thats an area not worth a band-aid!!!
KnappAttack
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just go buy a new one for what its worth,thats an area not worth a band-aid!!!
What? One blown belt latter and your in the same boat. They all should be loctited, even from new. New will do nothing in this case. It's an easy fix to clean it up and loctite.
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I agree, loctited is better than new, nota bandaid IMO
Sidewinder Bob
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I think it should be part of the yearly maintenance. with having the primary off, easy to do.
YamaDom
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I’ve got it apart now does it look like it moved?
There is no way to press out the bearing on the outside race. If you press out using the inside race would that put too much stress on the bearing?
Also the last picture there is a chip on the end of one of the splines. The chipped piece was in the splines of the stub shaft so nothing fell in the engine. Should I be concerned about this chip?
There is no way to press out the bearing on the outside race. If you press out using the inside race would that put too much stress on the bearing?
Also the last picture there is a chip on the end of one of the splines. The chipped piece was in the splines of the stub shaft so nothing fell in the engine. Should I be concerned about this chip?
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rtx moose
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buy a new one and loctite it!!thats just me being OCDI agree, loctited is better than new, nota bandaid IMO
ClutchMaster
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You can press on the inner race, it won’t hurt the bearing.
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Seeing you have a broken spline I'd get another one if it were me......and loctite it
ryama
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I think that spline shaft is actually the end of his crank.Seeing you have a broken spline I'd get another one if it were me......and loctite it
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