Hygear twisted springs

[jonlafon1]

On the ground.View attachment 167425

Nice upper A arms > perfectly flat.

 

[1nc 2000]

Tightened up the preload another 1/8".
Helps with not bottoming out.
Now it has a total of 3/8" preload on front springs. Hygear recommended 1/4" of preload on this setup.

 

[1nc 2000]

Well, broke the sway bar today.
Cranked the front shocks up to hard (3) now.

 

[earthling]

Tightened up the preload another 1/8".
Helps with not bottoming out.
Now it has a total of 3/8" preload on front springs. Hygear recommended 1/4" of preload on this setup.

Was your ride height set too low? The function of the spring is to set ride height and to provide pressure to extend the shock for rebound. Anti-bottoming is a function of valving - provided you have the right spring rate to begin with. Set ride height first, then everything else comes from that.

As far as your swaybar goes, it won't break because of your valving change. Increasing the resistance to oil flow in the shock (moving from 2-3) slows the shock down. This actually puts less stress through the sway bar (as more is going through the shock). If the sway bar broke, its something else. Or did you mean you had to set it to 3 because the swaybar broke?

 

[1nc 2000]

Was your ride height set too low? The function of the spring is to set ride height and to provide pressure to extend the shock for rebound. Anti-bottoming is a function of valving - provided you have the right spring rate to begin with. Set ride height first, then everything else comes from that.

As far as your swaybar goes, it won't break because of your valving change. Increasing the resistance to oil flow in the shock (moving from 2-3) slows the shock down. This actually puts less stress through the sway bar (as more is going through the shock). If the sway bar broke, its something else. Or did you mean you had to set it to 3 because the swaybar broke?

Just so you know...
The front springs are too soft for me if you have been following along here.
I went to setting 3 after breaking the sway bar which is a known problem on these sleds.
I know all about sag and ride height.
Enjoy your day, I am!

 

[earthling]

Just so you know...
The front springs are too soft for me if you have been following along here.
I went to setting 3 after breaking the sway bar which is a known problem on these sleds.
I know all about sag and ride height.
Enjoy your day, I am!

Just trying to gather info and help where I can. Yes, its maple syrup time which means beer, and boiling.. all good!

 

[Sledroll]

On the ground.View attachment 167425

With the twisted dual rate springs just sittin there you have a good amount of soft coil unsprung travel still left , whereas the stock springs sitting have almost none .
That most be way better for those stutter bumps than stock ??
Do you notice the difference of before and after ?

 

[1nc 2000]

With the twisted dual rate springs just sittin there you have a good amount of soft coil unsprung travel still left , whereas the stock springs sitting have almost none .
That most be way better for those stutter bumps than stock ??
Do you notice the difference of before and after ?

My sled from the factory came with different springs than the srx multi-rate springs.
Just had a regular coil on it.
Much better ride in the smaller bumps than stock.

 

[1nc 2000]

Sway bar. Both pieces.

 

[cannondale27]

Sway bar. Both pieces.
View attachment 167445

I know Barn of Part is working on making a replacement swaybar. Stocker I recommend having a spare on hand if you ride hard and I know you do. If in a pinch and need to ride next weekend give me a call. I am done riding I believe.

 

[1nc 2000]

Thanks man! I might be done for the season also. The local trails took a pretty big hit with the warm weather.

 

[cannondale27]

Thanks man! I might be done for the season also. The local trails took a pretty big hit with the warm weather.

I hoard parts or fix broke ones when time. Cant count on supply chain anymore and need to ride every weekend possible. Anytime anyone needs something in emergency. Dont hesitate to ask. Your Welcome! And dang it we need to ride someday!

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

With the twisted dual rate springs just sittin there you have a good amount of soft coil unsprung travel still left , whereas the stock springs sitting have almost none .
That most be way better for those stutter bumps than stock ??
Do you notice the difference of before and after ?

What you’re missing is when you’re going down a trail and you skis skim top of a bump they then unload into the “hole” before the next bump which is where the softer rates work well. The Hygear “looks” like it’s not coilbound which is what you’re seeing with the stock spring. Stock spring coil binds as a crossover point instead of the slider that Hygear uses with the spacers in there. Which has less effective range than you’re thinking because You’re more hung up on coil spacing than how they work.

 

[number1kyster]

I am an aggressive rider and the group I rode with runs pretty fast and pounds the bumps pretty good, if necessary. We ride mostly Newberry - Grand Marais - Munising - Seney areas and all of those trails can be great... or complete #*$&@ and severely whooped out. Still, I think I have decided that the standard SE shocks with the proper Hygear spring setup is likely the better option for me for the front.

I have an SE too. I ran it for 3,000 miles with the stock shocks and a 160lb center spring. I was always happy with the front end, but the rear was too stiff on the small bumps and too soft on the big bumps.

This season I upgraded to some Fox Zero 1.5 shocks with DCS adjusters. After a season on these shocks, I'm still not sure they were worth the money. I think they are valved on the stiff side for my liking. The only place that they blow away the stock shocks is when the trails are absolutely beat to hell.

My sled was more playful with the stock shocks and the 160lb spring. More transfer.

I'm undecided if I'm going to run them again next season. I may just have the stock shocks rebuilt/revalved.

 

[Sledroll]

What you’re missing is when you’re going down a trail and you skis skim top of a bump they then unload into the “hole” before the next bump which is where the softer rates work well. The Hygear “looks” like it’s not coilbound which is what you’re seeing with the stock spring. Stock spring coil binds as a crossover point instead of the slider that Hygear uses with the spacers in there. Which has less effective range than you’re thinking because You’re more hung up on coil spacing than how they work.

I understand what you are saying , as I suspected that to be the case .
But , based on your explanation the Twisted spring appears to still have a lot more usable softer rate available , as it transitions to the stiffer spring only .
Does the soft spring , on the twisted spring ,have to coil bind , before the main spring takes over 100 % , or does the soft spring compress to a point short of binding where its rate is equal to or more than the main spring ? ( I imagine you need to put the spring on a press to see this )
Does the spring ever completely compress or bind on a real big hit , to stop the shock from reaching it's full travel , and if not is the rubber stopper on the shock meant to protect it from the damage that may occur if that was to happen ?
I am just trying to understand , as shock and spring set up is possibly the most difficult aspect of sled set up , particularily when you get inside the shock and start playing with the countless options of valving , to address ride preference .
Hence the role our experts play on this site .

I respectfully use words like appears and imagine , to show my limited knowledge of a scenario , whenever the case is true .
The posts get longer when the season locally has come to an end , and trailering to open trails is not a daily possibility !