Keep an eye on your chain tensioner idler bolt!

[MrSled]

When I last checked mine(1000 miles ago) they were tight. I never had taken mine apart at all.

I sure wished I had tacked them at that time, but it was not as well known then. I think now we all know these have to be tacked(IMO)

Dan

Thats my thought.. better safe then sorry.

 

[cannondale27]

When I last checked mine(1000 miles ago) they were tight. I never had taken mine apart at all.

I sure wished I had tacked them at that time, but it was not as well known then. I think now we all know these have to be tacked(IMO)

Dan

No. Tight means nothing unless removed and checked for Loctite. Its pretty obvious from your pics there was no Loctite.

 

[Doowithblue]

There was zero loctite on my original screws. The new adjuster came with green retaining compound.

 

[cannondale27]

I warned you guys about tightening a Loctited bolt. It cannot be done without upsetting the Loctite if there is even any on there. Only way to know is to take it apart,Clean and reloctite. MtCoolers the shaft was spinning both bolts were tight. We took the absolute guaranteed route and just welded it. My replacement which is newest version Shaft did not spin and tons of Loctite. redid it and installed. I would say if Loctited properly and shaft is not spinning there is no need to weld and just look at it every year. Thats what I am doing.

 

[cannondale27]

Mines coming apart this weekend and maybe a tack weld should be done..

Thats easiest method if you can weld. But if you took it completely apart and cleaned with alot of Loctite and shaft wasnt spinning it will be just fine.

 

[MrSled]

Thats easiest method if you can weld. But if you took it completely apart and cleaned with alot of Loctite and shaft wasnt spinning it will be just fine.

I have to go back in both my Viper and Winder, I was going to just red loctite them but I might just tack them and be done with it.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

No. Tight means nothing unless removed and checked for Loctite. Its pretty obvious from your pics there was no Loctite.

I dont see how mine lasted 2400 mile with NO loctite. My pics would not be a good evidence would they? Im sure that stuff all rolling around in oil could have washed out any residual loctite....

I assume with NO loctite, they would not last more then a few rides before loosening. Not 2400 miles.

Dan

 

[SumpBuster]

I warned you guys about tightening a Loctited bolt. It cannot be done without upsetting the Loctite if there is even any on there. Only way to know is to take it apart,Clean and reloctite. MtCoolers the shaft was spinning both bolts were tight. We took the absolute guaranteed route and just welded it. My replacement which is newest version Shaft did not spin and tons of Loctite. redid it and installed. I would say if Loctited properly and shaft is not spinning there is no need to weld and just look at it every year. Thats what I am doing.

That's an excellent point...once the loctite is disturbed, that seems to be it...

 

[cannondale27]

I dont see how mine lasted 2400 mile with NO loctite. My pics would not be a good evidence would they? Im sure that stuff all rolling around in oil could have washed out any residual loctite....

I assume with NO loctite, they would not last more then a few rides before loosening. Not 2400 miles.

Dan

Maybe maybe not. Depends how tight right. Dan look at the pics of mine. Bolts never came out in 13000mi because they had Loctite yet the shaft spun so much it chewed half way through the Tensioner. When the bolts or bolts fall out is when the destruction happens. Loctite wont let them fall out period. Not saying welding isnt the best solution. It is but those who removed the bolts,cleaned and Loctited them and everything is tight do not need to rip apart the chaincase and miss riding to weld it. There is time. Now is the time to ride. You did not remove the bolts and reloctite them. That is why yours fell out.

 

[cannondale27]

The main issue with the original Tensioners is the machining for the flathead screw. The screw head bottoms out at bottom before tightening up on the tensioner chamfered hole. Its a machining screw up. So when you think its tight its just bottomed out. That is corrected on the new part and they Loctited the heck out of it also. Here:
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/keep-an-eye-on-your-chain-tensioner-idler-bolt.154568/

 

[stohlem]

If the cause of the failure is the screws being too long and allowing the shaft to spin, it would be wise during inspection to find shorter screws. If that's not possible, maybe one or two threads cut off existing screws with a Dremel cut off wheel. Just thinking.

 

[Fast]

When I last checked mine(1000 miles ago) they were tight. I never had taken mine apart at all.

I sure wished I had tacked them at that time, but it was not as well known then. I think now we all know these have to be tacked(IMO)

Dan

Could it be because the chain is to tight 1 turn or are the screws coming out on ones set to 1.5 turns to

 

[fourload]

In the spring I am ordering a new arm assembly AC # 2602-465 and will re Loctite it with red and tack weld. I am also going to order a new top 21 sprocket with the oil holes AC # 1702-490. Since the case will be open it will be cheap insurance for about $70 dollars plus shipping.

 

[SideHogger]

IMO it doesnt matter...the loctite(if there) just gives up after enough miles of vibrations steel roller on chain poor design. Tack welding mine for sure after massive fail...Its alot of work to dig out that rear case!

Dan

Sorry for your breakdown. Can we all scream, Barn of Parts? Travis can probably come up with a better tensioner which will last! He seems to be fixing everything else! I think Cat ought to hire him for a six figure salary to fix all the issues and pay him for all his designs. Wait, seven figures. Textron can afford it!

 

[SumpBuster]

Could it be because the chain is to tight 1 turn or are the screws coming out on ones set to 1.5 turns to

I'm thinking the same thing. I'm from the 'looser' side of the track...where my tracks are just tight enough to not ratchet, and of 1 1/2 turns out on chain tension is recommended, I'm there. As long as the chain slack side can't hit anything, or jump a tooth, it's good. Had a twin cam cosworth once and belt tension was critical, too loose it would jump a tooth, but too tight was even worse...broken tensioner's and belts. JMO.

 

[Fast]

I'm thinking the same thing. I'm from the 'looser' side of the track...where my tracks are just tight enough to not ratchet, and of 1 1/2 turns out on chain tension is recommended, I'm there. As long as the chain slack side can't hit anything, or jump a tooth, it's good. Had a twin cam cosworth once and belt tension was critical, too loose it would jump a tooth, but too tight was even worse...broken tensioner's and belts. JMO.

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