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Keep an eye on your chain tensioner idler bolt!

Going to Maine next week, so I called Excell, where I bought the sled, and he said they haven't seen this issue, although anything can fail, as we all know, but no concern...I have time to bring it in, and they said don't bother, just make sure the chain tension is correct!! There's that tension thing again....!!
I had them service it at 500 miles, chain oil, etc, and just checked and it's 1 1/2 turns out they must have set it at....fun taking the muffler and all off to check it...lol. It came off easy...used copper antisieze on everything last year.
 

If the cause of the failure is the screws being too long and allowing the shaft to spin, it would be wise during inspection to find shorter screws. If that's not possible, maybe one or two threads cut off existing screws with a Dremel cut off wheel. Just thinking.
It’s not the screw that’s too long it’s the Chamfer or head of bolt and lack of Loctite two problems.
 
I warned you guys about tightening a Loctited bolt. It cannot be done without upsetting the Loctite if there is even any on there. Only way to know is to take it apart,Clean and reloctite. MtCoolers the shaft was spinning both bolts were tight. We took the absolute guaranteed route and just welded it. My replacement which is newest version Shaft did not spin and tons of Loctite. redid it and installed. I would say if Loctited properly and shaft is not spinning there is no need to weld and just look at it every year. Thats what I am doing.

I warned you guys about tightening a Loctited bolt. It cannot be done without upsetting the Loctite if there is even any on there. Only way to know is to take it apart,Clean and reloctite. MtCoolers the shaft was spinning both bolts were tight. We took the absolute guaranteed route and just welded it. My replacement which is newest version Shaft did not spin and tons of Loctite. redid it and installed. I would say if Loctited properly and shaft is not spinning there is no need to weld and just look at it every year. Thats what I am doing.

This is a very important tip for some that may not know just by flipping past this finding...
Some lad or lady may start reading these threads and say, hey ya know.... while Im in there this weekend doin a gear change, Im going to crank the #*$&@ out of those torx screwy things and ensure there friggin torked eh.
 
I check my tension every 5-600kms and it was always good. On the last check of last season I noticed an extra 1 or so turns to get it in spec. When I tore it down last summer I found the inner screw backed out and the other one loose, both sides were elongated. That was the extra turn I noticed on the adjuster bolt.. Lucky I was!!!!!!!
 
Guys look at the roller,shaft and bearing. High quality YAMAHA parts. The Tensioner itself was a afterthought. So was fit of the screws. Thank god I have never seen parts like that in the motor! Anyway if being addressed the at least make where it pivots a solid bushing. Post it pivots on with spring is tapered and adjuster digs into that also.
 
This is a very important tip for some that may not know just by flipping past this finding...
Some lad or lady may start reading these threads and say, hey ya know.... while Im in there this weekend doin a gear change, Im going to crank the #*$&@ out of those torx screwy things and ensure there friggin torked eh.
I swear by use of a paint pen. Never put a wrench to anything I have Loctited and torqued. Paint marks are everywhere on my suspension.
 
I’m not seeing the issue here. I checked mine at 6 k for the first time and it was tight as can be. I did put red on it and Reinstalled. I saw no play at all at 6 k. What am I missing here? I’m starting to think I should have just left it alone. I saw no thread locker when taking apart. But mine snug as a bug? I have seen pics of loose.
 
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This what we’re talking?
 
Can I just remove the chain tensioner without removing any of the other chain case parts (besides the cover of course)?
 
That tension will just slide out but the spring will un wind.

During re-installation. put everything in place to slide back on, I used a small 1/4" drive-screwdriver handle-with deep socket to slide over the arm of the spring and lever/pry it back into its location. Its a bit of a pr_ck, but this worked for me and saved pulling the gears and chain off to make enough room to work.
MS
 


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