Knockout kit

[sideshowBob]

If you can remember back to the fall of 2016 the sidewinders were delivered with the same torque on clutch bolt as what yamaha used on their 4 strokes.
Due to the inferior Chinese metal used in the new sidewinder primary they were spinning on the stub shaft.
Yamaha then released a higher torque to seat the clutch and final torque.
Then we ended up with inconsistencies in clutch operation due to sticking of the primary as it heated up.
Put that primary on the shelf and installed older fx nytro primary and the clutching issues went away.
I torque the fx nytro primary same on sidewinder as I do my japan sleds. No issues.
Carry on...

I never had an issue with my stock SW clutch but it always made me nervous when I installed it as it felt spongy when torquing it up to the first 110lbs, like I was going to snap the bolt.
I have a few Apex primaries kicking around so a few years ago I installed one of the brand new Apex clutches on my SW and now when torquing it on it feels way more solid...not like I am about to twist the bolt off.
I now just keep my OEM SW clutch and a spare secondary clutch in the parts supply calibrated for snow drags so I just have to swap the clutches out if I were ever to do snow drags again...unlikely.
My installed clutches are strictly calibrated for trail riding with an ultra low engagement that render my launch control useless.

 

[Doc Harley]

just a question, when pulling snub out, the factory crank seal comes out with it, is there any specific process when putting snub back in ... that makes sure the seal goes squarely in and should you put loc tite around it or silicone to be sure its in tight. n sealed

I was wondering this too. I think I used a light coating of grease since it was in so hard I ruined it getting it off.

Putting something on hub & seal to help easy the stress wouldn't hurt.
Bring bolts in evenly to square it up until 8.7ft lbs is reached. Blue loctite, couldn't hurt?!?!
I just wire wheeled the threads on bolts. Then I'll run them in and out of the holes (b4) just to try to clear the threads out.

 

[KnappAttack]

The best way I have found to get the stub shaft out without ruining the seal is to take it out after the engine is up to temp and warm. I use a long heavy socket on the factory bolt as a slide hammer. Comes right out easily. Going in is pretty straightforward, the outer housing pushes the seal in nice and square, just make sure its all nice and clean.

Don't forget to clean and use green loctite on the bearing housing to outer bearing surfaces if you've not done that previously, this keeps the shaft from moving inward if you do blow a belt. Bolts get torqued to 8.7 ft lbs, not 15 ft. lbs on the stub shaft. No loctite stated in the manual either, just clean and dry.

 

[Doc Harley]

Edited & corrected, thanks Knapp!

 

[REDLINE 1]

Just got my kit today. As far as the grease goes how much are you guys putting in? Just filling the female splines with grease with yr finger or dumping the entire supplied packet in?

 

[ryama]

Just got my kit today. As far as the grease goes how much are you guys putting in? Just filling the female splines with grease with yr finger or dumping the entire supplied packet in?

I put the whole package in and installed then removed the stub shaft to check for coverage. I saw no issues with the whole package in the female end of the stub shaft.

 

[1nc 2000]

Dave from Tapp told me half a pack of grease.
He sends enough to pack it twice.
The 1049 stubs have inconsistent machining on the inside where the insert goes in. Some will fit and some will be loose.
Just need to take a socket and stretch insert then green loctite in place.

 

[1nc 2000]

Watching CPTC racing !
One f111 sled is a Viper.

 

[ryama]

Good to know I guess I'm taking mine apart again to remove some grease.

 

[Doc Harley]

Good to know I guess I'm taking mine apart again to remove some grease.

Nooo!!! Haha. I did the same. Let me give a call to Tapp on Monday and see why, the world's leading clutch company for the 998t would include a specified amount of Grease for the ability to grease it twice, and yet not include that in their very specific instructions. (Long sentence)
While I agree it was a lot. There is a void inside the hub where all the extra grease gets pushed, obviously opposite of the seal.
Either call them yourself or trust my words. I make a solid bet Tapp will thinks it's ok, either way. Meaning no damage will be done.

 

[sideshowBob]

I would think if you used too much grease it would just squirt out into the crankcase and eventually would be diluted and end up mixed with the engine oil so not a problem?...?

 

[Doc Harley]

I would think if you used too much grease it would just squirt out into the crankcase and eventually would be diluted and end up mixed with the engine oil so not a problem?...?

Yeah, Bob's right. Besides in a liability case presented against Tapp in court, with the directions as the main piece of evidence....Tapp wouldn't do too well.
Relax all your comments, it's just a joke. But.... probably true.

 

[fatchance]

Ok, so let's back it up a bit. If the grease can migrate into the bottom end wouldn't there be oil present when you yank the stub shaft? I know it's been a few years since Iv'e done mine, so am I missing something here?

 

[ryama]

Ok, so let's back it up a bit. If the grease can migrate into the bottom end wouldn't there be oil present when you yank the stub shaft? I know it's been a few years since Iv'e done mine, so am I missing something here?

I believe the winder uses a dry sump oiling system. I only saw a oil film when mine was apart. But I'm sure smarter guys then me will chime in.

 

[fatchance]

I believe the winder uses a dry sump oiling system. I only saw a oil film when mine was apart. But I'm sure smarter guys then me will chime in.

Even so, the crank bearings are still going to get lubricated. If grease can get in, oil can get out