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Last chance qualifier!!

Yes, I own a mighty set-up,Whatever...the $3.00 syringe works better. Suck the master dry. Fill the syringe & attached tube with brake fluid, attach to bleeder and send it until master is full. Once you see fluid coming up, give the brake lever a couple of light taps during the fill process.

View attachment 170457
Another great idea. Guess Ill have to do it twice to see!
 

Best way to break these bolts loose on the caliper?
Also, I tried putting a little heat to that banjo and it's not moving either
IMG_20221229_101435988_copy_1536x2048.jpg
 
Don't take it apart if you don't have to, bleeding can be a real bugger. Only reason to take apart would be to free up the pistons.
 
Don't take it apart if you don't have to, bleeding can be a real bugger. Only reason to take apart would be to free up the pistons.
Can you get Travis' new bearing and collar on without taking the caliper apart?
Im not there yet,but curious.
 
So in regards to that lite weight caliper
This was mine last year

I've put about 400 miles on the new pads and haven't seen many issues. One thing I'm noticing is that my left foot is getting warm as is the brake guard with those sintered pads.
 
Best way to break these bolts loose on the caliper?
Also, I tried putting a little heat to that banjo and it's not moving either
View attachment 170470
Seems crude but years ago when we had socket head screws stuck in die sets, a hammer and a prick punch with someone loosening did the trick. Or try a light duty impact, tight then loose. The vibration can break whatever bond is holding them. Ive found putting too much torque on an allen wrench rounds the hex on the non American made fasteners. Years ago, not so much, the bolts and stuff were much better made in the US.
 
Don't take it apart if you don't have to, bleeding can be a real bugger. Only reason to take apart would be to free up the pistons.
I wasn't interested in disassembling it but sometimes you have no choice.Probably would have been better to leave it secured to the sled.
Can you get Travis' new bearing and collar on without taking the caliper apart?
Im not there yet,but curious.
yeah, no. Has to come apart. The new bearing collar is probably 3/4" past the caliper housing. I don't even have it yet.
 
If you have to take it apart the easiest way i found to bleed was to put a container by the bleeder, open it up 2 turns and let it flow all the while pouring new dot 4 in...once you see new fluid close it up and fill the reservoir up. Only way i could get mine...took 30sec...i tried other methods, this worked the best. Wouldn't believe how dirty the old fluid was.
 
If you have to take it apart the easiest way i found to bleed was to put a container by the bleeder, open it up 2 turns and let it flow all the while pouring new dot 4 in...once you see new fluid close it up and fill the reservoir up. Only way i could get mine...took 30sec...i tried other methods, this worked the best. Wouldn't believe how dirty the old fluid was.
The fluid in the caliper was definitely dirty. I'm going to try the syringe trick and push the fluid up through the brake bleeder to the master. If that doesn't work I'll resort to your plan.
And I will come here and post up what my findings are.
Having the caliper apart it's easy to understand where air bubbles can hide.
 
Wouldn't believe how dirty the old fluid was
I bet that fluid gets HOT pulling these tuned winders down from high-speed runs.
Brake fluid is the most overlooked maintenance item there is.
 
I bet that fluid gets HOT pulling these tuned winders down from high-speed runs.
Brake fluid is the most overlooked maintenance item there is.
That's one reason to do the reverse bleed. You can tell when you get all the bad stuff out.
 
Trust & believe in the giant syringe. Really you just need to adjust flow by turning bleeder counterclockwise while hose is feeding the bleeder brake fluid.
Break pull feels like factory. But I'm sure that will change a touch while out riding.

IMG_20221230_091943190_copy_2048x1536.jpg
 
Just a guess but maybe after heating the caliper they recommend bleeding it to remove any air if any..
I take out mine every year to clean inspect and regrease without any heat, once the circlip is removed that holds the bearing in the caliper i use a socket that fits inside the caliper and catches the bearing, on the side of the clip I made up a rig that only catches the caliper shaped like a U with a hole in the centre, put the bolt through the socket and through the U shape bracket and tighten a nut on and the bearing comes right out.
Sorry I don’t have the puller with me to post a pic.
Can the bearing be re-greased without removing it from the caliper? On the Delta chasis, removing the seal in place was easy with pics or tiny flat screwdriver.
 


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