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Last chance qualifier!!

I replaced my driveshaft, rotor, bearing and put in the saver. Got this rotor from hurricane..cheaper then oem. No miles on it yet. $168cdn
 

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    rotor.jpg
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My 18 50th LE also came with OEM light weight rotor but that hurricane rotor is bad A$$.
 
Just a question what’s the down side of reusing that rotor. It floats in place does it not
 
jtmetal said:
Yes....bearing is loose on shaft.
Click to expand...
If you got that all apart with the BOP wedge in, and didn't have to loosen it, it wasn't tight enough - didn't expand enough to prevent shaft from spinning in bearing. Shaft is badly worn, bearing is badly worn. You can also see on inside of rotor that it was spinning on stationery bearing race. Might be able to make it work with BOP new shaft saver product (https://barnofparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/8256852?siteId=134334799&locale=en-US).
If you don't have press, then try heating caliper housing with torch around bearing. Most say it will drop out (remove snap ring duh). Install new BOP bearing by putting bearing in freezer for a few hours, heat caliper housing with torch, drop frozen bearing in. Should drop right in.
Be sure to bleed brakes.
Good luck!
 
Turboflash said:
If you got that all apart with the BOP wedge in, and didn't have to loosen it, it wasn't tight enough - didn't expand enough to prevent shaft from spinning in bearing. Shaft is badly worn, bearing is badly worn. You can also see on inside of rotor that it was spinning on stationery bearing race. Might be able to make it work with BOP new shaft saver product (https://barnofparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/8256852?siteId=134334799&locale=en-US).
If you don't have press, then try heating caliper housing with torch around bearing. Most say it will drop out (remove snap ring duh). Install new BOP bearing by putting bearing in freezer for a few hours, heat caliper housing with torch, drop frozen bearing in. Should drop right in.
Be sure to bleed brakes.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
In respect to axle saver, I didn't install it until 800 miles ago (3,000) So I'm pretty sure Everything had plenty of wear on it. So yes I torqued it to 30' lbs And I probably should have torqued to 45-50' lbs. It was probably too late regardless. I understand all your instructions and will proceed As instructed, with new Drive axle solution from BOP , etc. The only thing I don't understand is why your bringing up bleeding the breaks. I wasn't going to open anything up. please advise......Joe
 
jtmetal said:
In respect to axle saver, I didn't install it until 800 miles ago (3,000) So I'm pretty sure Everything had plenty of wear on it. So yes I torqued it to 30' lbs And I probably should have torqued to 45-50' lbs. It was probably too late regardless. I understand all your instructions and will proceed As instructed, with new Drive axle solution from BOP , etc. The only thing I don't understand is why you’re bringing up bleeding the breaks. I wasn't going to open anything up. please advise......Joe
Click to expand...
Just a guess but maybe after heating the caliper they recommend bleeding it to remove any air if any..
I take out mine every year to clean inspect and regrease without any heat, once the circlip is removed that holds the bearing in the caliper i use a socket that fits inside the caliper and catches the bearing, on the side of the clip I made up a rig that only catches the caliper shaped like a U with a hole in the centre, put the bolt through the socket and through the U shape bracket and tighten a nut on and the bearing comes right out.
Sorry I don’t have the puller with me to post a pic.
 
WinderFab said:
Just a guess but maybe after heating the caliper they recommend bleeding it to remove any air if any..
I take out mine every year to clean inspect and regrease without any heat, once the circlip is removed that holds the bearing in the caliper i use a socket that fits inside the caliper and catches the bearing, on the side of the clip I made up a rig that only catches the caliper shaped like a U with a hole in the centre, put the bolt through the socket and through the U shape bracket and tighten a nut on and the bearing comes right out.
Sorry I don’t have the puller with me to post a pic.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I wasn't sure. I have a mighty vac/bleeder. And see what if anything comes of it.
I do have a heat gun I was planning to use to heat up caliper. I'll try it, and see what's what. Got my snub shaft housing over 200°!
I think , if measured correctly the I.d is like 1.625". I'll get something to work.

Thanks, WinderfFab
 
jtmetal said:
In respect to axle saver, I didn't install it until 800 miles ago (3,000) So I'm pretty sure Everything had plenty of wear on it. So yes I torqued it to 30' lbs And I probably should have torqued to 45-50' lbs. It was probably too late regardless. I understand all your instructions and will proceed As instructed, with new Drive axle solution from BOP , etc. The only thing I don't understand is why your bringing up bleeding the breaks. I wasn't going to open anything up. please advise......Joe
Click to expand...
Once you have new bearing, you might not be able to assemble the whole assy together. You might have to split caliper. If so, you'll have to bleed it. If not, then perhaps not. Not a bad thing to just check.
 
Turboflash said:
Once you have new bearing, you might not be able to assemble the whole assy together. You might have to split caliper. If so, you'll have to bleed it. If not, then perhaps not. Not a bad thing to just check.
Click to expand...
Lol...it's funny you should mention that. Just before I grabbed my phone I was thinking along those lines.
Always something.....
 
I'm including the dimensions for bearing and shaft to try and figure out which one's more torn up. As I'm thinking maybe I can get away with a bearing. Idk!!! .017 clearance (this figure is with zero torque on shaft saver)
Shaft
IMG_20221227_102708381_copy_1536x2048.jpg

Bearing
IMG_20221227_103328147_copy_1536x2048.jpg
 
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