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Let's talk studs

I have 192 of the 1.64" stingers and I'm finally getting good hook out of the hole. Lengthened my limiter strap by about 1.5" and added about 1" of threads "showing" to the center shock. Much better than before. I have just the Yammie rear protectors and have zero nicks anywhere. 2 studs inner and 2 outer. Run my track fairly snug. Stayed out of the center 3.625". Have 24 scratch lines.

Did you buy new straps to do this?

Or simply move to longest holes?
 

I went to last hole on top, sure did not seem like enough room to add another hole there if I recall.

Does the other end(bottom) have more room at end?

thnx
Dan

Mine did. I left about 1/4" from edge of hole to the end of the limiter strap. The washer "overhangs" the edge some but the squeeze gives most of the support. I cranked down on those bolts more as mine were not very tight from the factory. 400 miles and no issues yet.
 
Well 700 miles on sled so far and went back and tightened up my studs. Those quiet bumps really cause havoc on keeping studs straight. Anyways I had 2 pull through. They were my round backers not double backers. I am studded the same way as my 2014 Viper but just a little longer and not one single issue. So have I done something wrong or is this from the the 200+ hp this beast is making?
 
I spent the time to remove every quiet bump inside the track where a stud hole was located. Long sawzall blade and cleaned it up with die grinder.
Did all double backers down the middle, using the entire span including center. Two outer studs every 6 pitches. 192 count 1.450 Gold diggers
Ski doo protectors, outside only
 
Mine did. I left about 1/4" from edge of hole to the end of the limiter strap. The washer "overhangs" the edge some but the squeeze gives most of the support. I cranked down on those bolts more as mine were not very tight from the factory. 400 miles and no issues yet.
why did you feel you had to lengthen straps past stock,does this not add to track ballooning on high speed pulls,ya it may give you more travel,but at what cost? Did you say you turned down your front skid shock to see 1" of threads? What sled is it? Is it an ltx-le with qs3 shock and dule springs? If so,it must ride like a tank now,with that much preload,i moved mine down 1/2 to 3/4 inch showing,and it rode like a buckboard.
 
This is the million dollar question.....

What does it take stud wise, to get these tuned sidewinder to stick?

192 1.64" is probably a good start. But something is telling me more is better in this case. We shall see.
 
why did you feel you had to lengthen straps past stock,does this not add to track ballooning on high speed pulls,ya it may give you more travel,but at what cost? Did you say you turned down your front skid shock to see 1" of threads? What sled is it? Is it an ltx-le with qs3 shock and dule springs? If so,it must ride like a tank now,with that much preload,i moved mine down 1/2 to 3/4 inch showing,and it rode like a buckboard.

Whoa....lots of questions. :rofl:

Lengthened the limiter because my hook up down low was extremely poor. Much better now. I like a bit of front end lift on acceleration.
I have had no issue on track ballooning at high speeds since the change however I do run my track fairly snug. Why would it add track ballooning under load? Top side is under tension while under power.
I turned the front skid shock down from 1/2" to about 1 1/2".
Yes it is a 18 LTX-LE.
No it doesn't ride like a tank in shock settings 1 and 2. Keep in mind I don't go "looking" for rough trails. Yes I know you eventually hit them but I liked how the sled was riding in these settings.
I'm a pretty big guy so that might help as well. Also my transfer blocks are out so I'm not getting much if any coupling which would firm up the ride some if left in. Put a block under just the back of the suspension and kneel on the bumper, once the transfer block is hit it couples and both shocks are compressing. Much stiffer.
 
This is the million dollar question.....

What does it take stud wise, to get these tuned sidewinder to stick?

192 1.64" is probably a good start. But something is telling me more is better in this case. We shall see.

I have the same question JT. The guys that went with 1.62" and longer with 4 per bar or more.....how are you liking it and is it enough bite, or are you not satisfied? I thought i was fine with the standard 144 1.45" down the middle trail set up on stock , but once boosted it's not even close to enough. So how much is enough without losing trialability? I'm thinking of going 192 or 168 , 2" overall stud length down the middle and using the 1.45" 2 per bar on every other bar on the outside for 240 or 216 total respectively. I am hoping this will give it more scratch lines and yet still have the ability to turn on the trails.
 
I like studs for safety alone, which outweighs the frustration they bring with garage, driveway and trailer. Watched an incident occur this year on an unstudded sled that may have been prevented. Bottomline, I plan to stud the LTX-LE when I get it this fall. Am interested to hear others plans, brand and pattern they will use on their sleds as well.
4 2 4 doubles and singles, 1.5"
The initial spin before it hooks up , may be saving the belt.
If I was doing it again , I'd put in more studs .
I dont have scratchers , but the longer studs seem to help , keep temps down , when trails are hard packed.
 
Well 700 miles on sled so far and went back and tightened up my studs. Those quiet bumps really cause havoc on keeping studs straight. Anyways I had 2 pull through. They were my round backers not double backers. I am studded the same way as my 2014 Viper but just a little longer and not one single issue. So have I done something wrong or is this from the the 200+ hp this beast is making?

Well if your pulling studs you probably didn’t have them tight enough. The manufacturers suggest way to little torque on the nuts. Tighten them until they are slightly sunk in the track. Use woodys megabites they are the strongest studs and don’t bend as easy as the others. Use double backers as much as possible and never use the round backers. Woodys square are larger and thicker than all the rest, won’t pull out if tightened properly. Never ever use plastic backers. I tighten mine once and never need to re-tighten. Not one pulled stud and a lot of runs over 300hp.
 
If you really want a sled to hook then you need to drop paddle length (.750" or 1") and put in 192 chisels and pics
Nobody (very few) want to do the maintenance required of that setup in the trail.
The Ripsaw II we have stock is not all that friendly to studs with the quiet lugs, yes the belting is good but for proper studding the internal quiet lugs need to be removed where it holds the studs from getting full penetration. (and staying tight)
My trail setup is 192 1.450 Gold diggers mostly in center belt and quiet lugs removed where needed.
 
If you really want a sled to hook then you need to drop paddle length (.750" or 1") and put in 192 chisels and pics
Nobody (very few) want to do the maintenance required of that setup in the trail.
The Ripsaw II we have stock is not all that friendly to studs with the quiet lugs, yes the belting is good but for proper studding the internal quiet lugs need to be removed where it holds the studs from getting full penetration. (and staying tight)
My trail setup is 192 1.450 Gold diggers mostly in center belt and quiet lugs removed where needed.

You can’t run chissels on trails they will be destroyed in 10 miles!
They have no carbide tips.

Gold Diggers won’t hold up anywhere near as long as Megga Bites.
 
Also dropping down to a 1” lug for trail riding is stupid. This will kill traction on the snow, which is what 90% of your riding is.

With a 1” lug you’ll be smoking the track off at 60mph in the snow.
 


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