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Making chips, machining the primary & secondary myself


Are you kidding? Basically all the info needed is out there. If someone cant put 2+2 together to figure out what to do then they shouldn't be touching a Lathe or mill and should use a Vendor to do this.
 
Studroes144 said:
From the little bit I've looked at and studied the clutches, would it work to simply machine the helix around the shaft area where it contacts the actual clutch body itself? This would be a SIMPLE way to allow for more travel in the secondary
Click to expand...

Well yes, thats correct for the secondary. In the past I have used a lathe or just an end mill in a drill press to accomplish this on a stock helix.Very simple. On your primary you could install an aftermarket inner sheave (speed sheave) or just machine some material off the inner diameter of the inner face to allow it to close further. Just don't make the flat too big, you need the belt to engage on the angled face. I've done this many times. So if you have access to a lathe and feel that you can safely operate it go for it.
 
Studroes144 said:
No access to a lathe and def not interested in "making chips" on my own clutches lol just curious how Terry made out on this, it was a hot topic for a few days then just died
Click to expand...

I agree, the machining is cheap enough to have done anyway. BTW, some of the aftermarket helixes are ready for overdrive out of the box.
 
image.jpg
Machining the spring pocket a bit deeper to eliminate coil bind.
 
By doing what's shown there will eliminate the coil binding, but does that allow for full shift of the secondary? From what I've seen many guys are still saying they machine sheaves yet too to reach full shift
 
Studroes144 said:
By doing what's shown there will eliminate the coil binding, but does that allow for full shift of the secondary? From what I've seen many guys are still saying they machine sheaves yet too to reach full shift
Click to expand...
No, a stock helix can still limit full shift if the primary has been machined for O/D.
 
It was dropped because NOS Pro didn't want to step on any vendors toes by posting dimensions and pics. That's why I made the kidding comment. Sometimes old posts are better left old. I understand why you are interested now that you have a turbo Studroes. Can't you check to see your shift out with marker and removing springs after some runs to see if you are using full travel? I assume your secondary spring doesn't bind like stock anyway.
 
cannondale27 said:
It was dropped because NOS Pro didn't want to step on any vendors toes by posting dimensions and pics. That's why I made the kidding comment. Sometimes old posts are better left old. I understand why you are interested now that you have a turbo Studroes. Can't you check to see your shift out with marker and removing springs after some runs to see if you are using full travel? I assume your secondary spring doesn't bind like stock anyway.
Click to expand...

Its just as easy to mail the clutches in unless you have the Mill and Lathe at your finger tips.... and if you are any kind of machinist you should be able to look at your clutches along with a few other posts that are on the site and be able to figure this out.
 
MrSled said:
Its just as easy to mail the clutches in unless you have the Mill and Lathe at your finger tips.... and if you are any kind of machinist you should be able to look at your clutches along with a few other posts that are on the site and be able to figure this out.
Click to expand...
Maching by the pro's is way cheaper than buying new ones to send out for machining if ya know what I mean,I left it to the pro's:drink:
 
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