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Need Help on This One - Primary


Use lapping compound on the taper fit, if it has a couple scratch lines not a big deal. Absolutely no grease on the taper fit!
Scratches are not a big deal, just no high spots.
 
Glad you got it off!
 
The corrosion ring is on both the shaft and clutch. I noticed a friends clutch had the same thing. Polished both the shaft and inner clutch, but it is etched deep into the metal. Would this be a warranty item?

What's the reason for no grease on the shaft? I was thinking just a thin coat. After going through this it would be nice to get it off again without all the fuss.
MS
 
Sevey said:
The corrosion ring is on both the shaft and clutch. I noticed a friends clutch had the same thing. Polished both the shaft and inner clutch, but it is etched deep into the metal. Would this be a warranty item?

What's the reason for no grease on the shaft? I was thinking just a thin coat. After going through this it would be nice to get it off again without all the fuss.
MS
Click to expand...

It’s a friction fit tapper lock. Think about it, you want friction to keep it from spinning inside the clutch. Sounds like it might have spun causing your issues.
 
A mildly tuned Winder has over 150 ft/lbs of torque. Take a torque wrench and try tightening a bolt to 150 ft/lbs, that’s how much twisting force is on that small taper holding the clutch from spinning.
Any amount of grease or oil will reduce the holding power of that friction fit, not good.

Sounds like yours spun a little then got hot and micro welded together. More than likely the taper wasn’t a good fit and only touched on one small section of the taper, usually where the taper is largest, causing it to spin.

Post a pic of the taper that would help
 
I would buy the stub shaft from Hurricane and get rid of the clutch rattle at the same time. It’s kind of pricey but not if you subtract the price of a new stock piece.
 
Sevey said:
Conclusion - big thank you to all the chipped in with their comments.

After using a hotter torch and bending another puller (using grease and oil and thread tape) - with no luck - I was about to give up....
So with nothing to lose I cut the end off the puller repacked it with grease and oil and sent the puller in with the impact - sure enough POP! Come off like a bullet.

There was no doubt it was stubborn but it was one of those 'couldn't see the forest for the trees' situations. I was told by a number of guys to keep using the puller by having it bottom out as well with grease/oil. I would revamp that statement if I were to advise anyone - forget about having the puller bottom - go right for the hydraulic lock.

There was a ring of corrosion and pitted metal on both the shaft and inside of clutch. That must be what had it seized on there. After polishing both clutch and shaft the ring is super evident and is not going anywhere, its quite deep. Going to re install using thin coat of grease.

Also, for those that like to wrap the puller head with a hammer to shock the clutch loose - not sure I am in favour of that. Once the clutch was off, you could see the bearing (holding the stub shaft) has moved back at least 1/16 in the housing. So that has to come apart and be re-pressed together. More fun. The bearing doesn't feel is smooth as I would like so it may have to be entirely replaced. Will see once its out.

Thanks again for the help guys.
MS
Click to expand...
Well .. now after hearing all the hell ya went through getting your clutch off (glad ya got it though) maybe like I mentioned early on in the post about putting just a ULTRA light film of anti seize barely detectable to the eye and NOT some half tube that flings all over that causes your clutch to slip off and kill ten people and lose 1/1000 of a second in a quarter mile because it might have "slipped" …. (which nothing like this has ever happened) . So maybe this could be considered to be helpful and not a loaded gun pointing you in the face like the experts make it sound. ( they could make great stories for the fake media) They say they NEVER would do this and have never had any problems getting there clutches off … I am sure as they take there clutches of every day to fine tune them for perfect performance! They have likely NEVER tried this but have the knowledge that its NEVER is to be done. Again … 40 yrs of taking clutches on and off and NEVER an issue..
 
Last edited:
The is a very good reason that Yamaha has a factory specification for initial torque setting on the primary that is a much higher setting than previous sleds. It is because the Winder has a lot of power compared to previous models. Obviously Yamaha concluded that that the clutch would slip and cause damage to the clutch and/or pto shaft with the old setting.
Clutches do in fact slip if they are not tight enough and this is not the place for any sort of lubricant.
Get used to it. With higher factory torque settings, these clutches are going to be harder to get off.
 
74Nitro said:
The is a very good reason that Yamaha has a factory specification for initial torque setting on the primary that is a much higher setting than previous sleds. It is because the Winder has a lot of power compared to previous models. Obviously Yamaha concluded that that the clutch would slip and cause damage to the clutch and/or pto shaft with the old setting.
Clutches do in fact slip if they are not tight enough and this is not the place for any sort of lubricant.
Get used to it. With higher factory torque settings, these clutches are going to be harder to get off.
Click to expand...
Yes .. your right. Clutches do slip IF they are not torqued right... That's the only thing that makes sense in your statement. Get use to it!
 
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