KnappAttack
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I use lapping compound on the shaft and clutch to polish and fit it perfectly. Then clean both the shaft and clutch really well and assemble dry. NO WAY, NO HOW I'd ever anti-seize it when assembling. They rotate too easily as it is.
Assemble Yamaha's way of 108 ft. lbs. loosen the bolt and re-torque to 43 ft. lbs. and you'll will not have any problems rotating or getting the clutch off.
Assemble Yamaha's way of 108 ft. lbs. loosen the bolt and re-torque to 43 ft. lbs. and you'll will not have any problems rotating or getting the clutch off.
sideshowBob
Lifetime Member
I use lapping compound on the shaft and clutch to polish and fit it perfectly. Then clean both the shaft and clutch really well and assemble dry. NO WAY, NO HOW I'd ever anti-seize it when assembling. They rotate too easily as it is.
Assemble Yamaha's way of 108 ft. lbs. loosen the bolt and re-torque to 43 ft. lbs. and you'll will not have any problems rotating or getting the clutch off.
X2!
74Nitro
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Sevey, I have to ask, why are you taking the clutch off?
sideshowBob
Lifetime Member
I hate to bring this up but....
In the past...there have been times that owners have had to cut the primaries off with an angle grinder. I hope this is not the solution here. The only silver lining to that cloud would be that the stub shaft is replaceable on the 998 SW engine so you would not be looking at disassembling the engine and replacing the crankshaft like on most 2 strokes that have a damaged clutch taper. The only 2 stroke exception, that I am aware of, would be the mighty VMAX4 that had a separate gear reduced clutch shaft that could be replaced.
In the past...there have been times that owners have had to cut the primaries off with an angle grinder. I hope this is not the solution here. The only silver lining to that cloud would be that the stub shaft is replaceable on the 998 SW engine so you would not be looking at disassembling the engine and replacing the crankshaft like on most 2 strokes that have a damaged clutch taper. The only 2 stroke exception, that I am aware of, would be the mighty VMAX4 that had a separate gear reduced clutch shaft that could be replaced.
Sevey
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Sevey, I have to ask, why are you taking the clutch off?
I yank the clutches in the off-season and clean them out. I know you can do some of this while its still on the machine but I pop them off and take them home.
MS
Sevey
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I hate to bring this up but....
In the past...there have been times that owners have had to cut the primaries off with an angle grinder. I hope this is not the solution here. The only silver lining to that cloud would be that the stub shaft is replaceable on the 998 SW engine so you would not be looking at disassembling the engine and replacing the crankshaft like on most 2 strokes that have a damaged clutch taper. The only 2 stroke exception, that I am aware of, would be the mighty VMAX4 that had a separate gear reduced clutch shaft that could be replaced.
Lets hope it doesn't come to this....lol
Spoke to my dealer today and he really couldn't provide much insight. He wanted it brought in but that is not possible, sled is all apart right now so its not moveable. If I cant get it off then I will take it to him next fall or early winter.
He did indicate he would take torches to it to heat it up - which makes me kind of nervous. That's a lot of heat in-and-around the aluminum sheaves, not to mention how much heat goes through the shaft and cooks the pt0 shaft bearing.
MS
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well you could try one of my tricks with a damaged puller. i cut one off below the threads and wrapped it with teflon tape, i then filled the hole with water and tightened it with the impact. this is where i threw it outside at -30 c for 2 days before the clutch came off. you could do it with gear lube (chaincase oil) without the freezing unless you can use dry ice on it to freeze the water in the clutch.
74Nitro
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74Nitro
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The blue puller is right from Cat. They colour code them. Had a Crossfire 800 show up a couple months ago with bad primary. I ran that puller in with my Ingersol Rand gun(which is getting tired) 1/2 inch impact set on high. I use 130-150lbs air pressure. Nothing. I then put a bar through clutch and a 3 foot Johnson bar on the socket and tightened for all I was worth. Nothing. Tapped it a few times(which I don't like doing). Nothing. This was a tight SOB.Here's a puller last used for hydraulic lock.
I then tipped machine up on its side and slowly poured gear oil in clutch hole till it was close to top. Wrapped puller threads with Teflon tape, as seen in photo. Put my tired 1/2 impact back on puller after air compressor had topped up. Pulled trigger and less than 10 seconds later....BOOM!!
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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The blue puller is right from Cat. They colour code them. Had a Crossfire 800 show up a couple months ago with bad primary. I ran that puller in with my Ingersol Rand gun(which is getting tired) 1/2 inch impact set on high. I use 130-150lbs air pressure. Nothing. I then put a bar through clutch and a 3 foot Johnson bar on the socket and tightened for all I was worth. Nothing. Tapped it a few times(which I don't like doing). Nothing. This was a tight SOB.
I then tipped machine up on its side and slowly poured gear oil in clutch hole till it was close to top. Wrapped puller threads with Teflon tape, as seen in photo. Put my tired 1/2 impact back on puller after air compressor had topped up. Pulled trigger and less than 10 seconds later....BOOM!!
Works like a charm! Did the same but with water and pop, off it came, that was with my PB80 before my real puller showed up.
ClutchMaster
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I got $20 that says 74nitro’s way works.
ClutchMaster
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Who’s got PayPal??
Sevey
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The blue puller is right from Cat. They colour code them. Had a Crossfire 800 show up a couple months ago with bad primary. I ran that puller in with my Ingersol Rand gun(which is getting tired) 1/2 inch impact set on high. I use 130-150lbs air pressure. Nothing. I then put a bar through clutch and a 3 foot Johnson bar on the socket and tightened for all I was worth. Nothing. Tapped it a few times(which I don't like doing). Nothing. This was a tight SOB.
I then tipped machine up on its side and slowly poured gear oil in clutch hole till it was close to top. Wrapped puller threads with Teflon tape, as seen in photo. Put my tired 1/2 impact back on puller after air compressor had topped up. Pulled trigger and less than 10 seconds later....BOOM!!
Did you use the gun in short bursts or a constant hit? Or does it matter.
I notice none of the stories involve heating it up. The hydraulic force is enough on its own?
MS
74Nitro
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Constant hit, u don't want the pressure to leak by the threads .Did you use the gun in short bursts or a constant hit? Or does it matter.
I notice none of the stories involve heating it up. The hydraulic force is enough on its own?
MS
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Works like a charm! Did the same but with water and pop, off it came, that was with my PB80 before my real puller showed up.
True story, I was there!! 1st time I have seen this done but it makes total sense. Hydraulic method.......getting a good seal (wrap that Teflon well) and the impact wrench seemed to be the key to success.
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