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New Battery (boring topic HUGE weight/$ savings)

Bamboo said:
beeze455 said:
It was 0c out all weekend and it started right up. I never needed to use my heaters either. I did hit the switch by mistake left it on all night and killed the battery. Jumped the battery and ran the nytro for ten minutes and everything was good.

0c is not that cold. If it was 0f than thats a good sign that the battery held up.

I agree, but wanted to share my results. I now have a solid baseline. At freezing this battery performs just as well as stock and when run completely dead the nytro can charge it back up after it is jumped started.
 

Bamboo said:
beeze455 said:
It was 0c out all weekend and it started right up. I never needed to use my heaters either. I did hit the switch by mistake left it on all night and killed the battery. Jumped the battery and ran the nytro for ten minutes and everything was good.

0c is not that cold. If it was 0f than thats a good sign that the battery held up.

Would you prefer we don't share our findings? Most of us communicated we would share our finding...
 
No its all good. I just wanted to make sure it was not a typo. Not many US guys post temps in celsius. Not that its been cold here lately(or that we have any snow), but I did manage to get out to our cabin a couple of weeks ago. Saturday morning it was -28 celsius. Kinda nippy. Had to jump one of our nytros(both with stock batteries)
 
Bamboo said:
No its all good. I just wanted to make sure it was not a typo. Not many US guys post temps in celsius. Not that its been cold here lately(or that we have any snow), but I did manage to get out to our cabin a couple of weeks ago. Saturday morning it was -28 celsius. Kinda nippy. Had to jump one of our nytros(both with stock batteries)

A very important item is that the battery was dead and the nytro charged it just fine.
 
So this morning it is 21F or -6C and it started fine, but had the hold the key a few extra seconds. When it is 10F out I will post again.

30F or 0C -- Started Fine
20F or -6C -- Had to hold the key a few seconds longer.
 
Beeze, next time try just turning the key on without trying to start....I believe that should start it warming up, as you have draw n the battery....
 
My battery was going bad the day before I got towed out. 2 days of headong to the truck early for 5 lbs weight savings. I spend way too much time and money on riding to let 5 lbs end a day of riding early. It may have just been a fluke that I had a bad battery but too much is at stake to give it a second chance. Maybe next year if nobody else has problems I'll give it another shot.
 
rlcofmn said:
My battery was going bad the day before I got towed out. 2 days of headong to the truck early for 5 lbs weight savings. I spend way too much time and money on riding to let 5 lbs end a day of riding early. It may have just been a fluke that I had a bad battery but too much is at stake to give it a second chance. Maybe next year if nobody else has problems I'll give it another shot.

did you send it back for any analysis? or just shelf it?
 
mtdream said:
rlcofmn said:
My battery was going bad the day before I got towed out. 2 days of headong to the truck early for 5 lbs weight savings. I spend way too much time and money on riding to let 5 lbs end a day of riding early. It may have just been a fluke that I had a bad battery but too much is at stake to give it a second chance. Maybe next year if nobody else has problems I'll give it another shot.

did you send it back for any analysis? or just shelf it?

I will send it in, just have been too busy. I'll run it racing this spring/summer
 
I don't know if it will work on these batteries, but i got a tester at work to measure the cca on batteries, and another to measure the Ampere hours.

I will test it on my ballistic once it arrives.

Anyways, I would think a workshop/ battery/starter shop would have this kind of instrument. The cca test takes about 15 secs, so they should be able to test it for you.

On the other hand, maybe its too late for rlcofm's battery. But its worth knowing for others wondering about the health of their batteries.
 
The starting was a small issue compared to the problems I had the last weekend with it. it would still start but did not have enough power to keep it running properly. The dead battery overnight was just a coincidence. I did not put it all together until putting a conventional battery back in and all my problems from the weekend were gone. The battery was dieing a slow death, then it completely died the next day.

I'm much more concerned with durability than the starting issues.
 
Rl,

What will be interesting, is these batteries are individual cells...I wonder if one or more cells failed??

Dime,

The unique thing is what I asked Rl about, and while those tests will show normal stuff, they won't tell you which cell(s) are bad...that might be the key for rl's battery....which is consistent with what he has said...
 
I would think that with a damaged cell you would see that when trying to run a load test on the battery. The test would most probably fail in short time.
But of course it would not tell which exact cell has the problem.
 
For the ballistic batteries it has a port between the - and + posts for a ballance charger to be hooked up.... I have been using a RC charger from work and it seem to be working great, Sorry for the confusion guys i am running the 8 cell battery and i am super impressed with it so far! One good day of very cold starting -32 in town and -18 at the summit... It did take a while but the machine did fire up after 5-7 min!
 
After riding this past weekend, I could tell a difference in how the sled handled. The battery saved 10+ pounds. Plus I mounted a Polaris shovel bag on the back of the tunnel, emtied out the nose bag and windshield bags and moved all that "stuff" to the tunnel bag. So there is probably another 10 pounds relocated from the front end to the back of the sled, for a net savings of 20 pounds off the front end!
Total weight loss for the sled is up to 60 pounds now ;)!

Bill
 


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