New to me '08 Apex RTX, need some general setup suggestions

[jgustman]

Front shocks are fox floats, and seem ok, but someone stole the air pump while at the dealership apparently, need to get one. Springs aren't upgraded, and the original owner was lighter than me, I believe. I probably weigh around 230+ with all gear on. Engine braking or just braking makes it squirrely. I know the ski's suck stock. I want wider ones that actually float. Had good success on my rx-1 with slydog's

 

[jgustman]

Here's a question, I bought a Nice M-10 for the viper, and thinking maybe I should just install it in the Apex???? Or do you guys who had the shocks revalved think it rides well enough to forget the M10 option. I wanted it for my Viper S since the shocks have 4000 miles on them and are non rebuildable position sensitive ones, not to mention the skid bushings look like they need attention and oem shocks alone are $700.

 

[smacho]

I have no way to know -- No experience with "M-10."

The re-valve helps allot, but when the track wears out, I plan to replace the skid. If it were today (ZX2, M10, M20? - not sure -- I do not have to choose yet). I would like both a longer track & better skid. THe rest of the APEX RTX is a keeper.

I think the longer I wait, the better my options and info on them. I'd guess I have another 2-3 seasons on this track/skid -- & in that much time, the little devil details will get worked out of the aftermarket skids (and perhaps prices will come down too).

 

[jgustman]

Well, the skid shocks are going off the Carver performance for a revalve today....

 

[apexrtxmaniac]

An M-10 would be good if you are a long distance trail cruiser. It is VERY plush when setup properly however it has a couple of drawbacks. It: gains track tension as it goes through travel-lowering gas milage and top end, is not a very good mogul mashing suspension, has poor weight transfer, and makes the sled sit taller-raising the center of gravity, hurting cornering ability.

I have hygear's trail pro re-valve package on my 07 rtx and love it. It is not as plush as an M-10 but suits my highly agressive riding style better.

 

[jgustman]

I felt the same about wanting a rising rate suspension for the the type of riding I want to do on this heavier sled compared to my viper s. I heard good things about Carver from the sticky post about revalving and they are about 300 miles away, so shipping time/down time will be minimal. Man the front shock is a pain in the arse to remove with the center wheels in the way. Thought I could pull the skid and shocks out in 1/2 hour and go to bed by 12:30 last night, finished and packaged up to send at 2:00 A.M. Had the thumbwarmer quit last ride also. Wonder if it happend when I dumped it on the right side in a corner, don't see any damage though. Think I should just order a new one, I didn't see any codes pop up for a failed thumbwarmer.

Looking back at an earlier post of mine, I stated coupling was near full, I meant nearly fully uncoupled, so it would lift the skis and should ride softer than if fully coupled. It definetly shouldn't be that stiff fully uncoupled. After I got the shocks out last night, the rear shock seems really stiff and a bit low on pressure when it returns-stiff both ways.

 

[dutch]

I have an '07 RTX and am also not totally happy. Love the motor, had the shocks re-valved and it rides pretty good but I think Yamaha has some work to do on this chassis, they are just too heavy. The COG seems high and the sled just seems tippy and unpredictable in the corners. Sometimes it will rail around a corner and other times Im off into the powder which really makes me lose confifidence in the twistys. And just forget about pulling off the groomed trail, you need 40 acres to get the thing turned around - two strokes can drive circles around me. I had Polaris two strokes for 15 years and never had a problem and now I'm making more trips to the shop than ever - bogies, exhaust donuts, shock re-valving, etc. Oh, and by the way, the new power steering adds another 30lbs to the sled. I miss the fun of a light two stroke so i think I'll go back.

 

[smacho]

Well, the skid shocks are going off the Carver performance for a revalve today....

I hope you will have enough snow to try it yet this season ... I suspect it will be a welcomed improvement.

 

[apexrtxmaniac]

Looking back at an earlier post of mine, I stated coupling was near full, I meant nearly fully uncoupled, so it would lift the skis and should ride softer than if fully coupled. It definetly shouldn't be that stiff fully uncoupled. After I got the shocks out last night, the rear shock seems really stiff and a bit low on pressure when it returns-stiff both ways.

I'm sure you'll love the re-valve. As far as the coupling goes it actually will ride better with more coupling. This is because both of the shocks have to work together. This allows you to run the clicker softer so the valving is comfy in the stutters but still doesn't bottom out in the g-outs.

 

[jgustman]

I'm sure you'll love the re-valve. As far as the coupling goes it actually will ride better with more coupling. This is because both of the shocks have to work together. This allows you to run the clicker softer so the valving is comfy in the stutters but still doesn't bottom out in the g-outs.[/quote]

I wasn't riding in g-out territory, just small trail junk, figured it would ride better with less coupling, and clicker and springs set soft, still rides like a brick. I expected it to bottom set up that way in big bumps.

 

[zigoapex1]

I love my sled but I like to get the suspension better.
Im 250 with gear on and i bottom out a lot.
springs on hard,front skid just snug so spring does not flop around,
limiter straps 1 hole down from loosest setting(i hand them 1 hole up from the tightest last year but broke the l straps),click about 5 back from stiffest,
fox at 50 but going to go to 45,having some inside ski lift,put new slides on and tightened track 135 mm sag,pilot 5.7(no need for power steering) 6"middle and 4" runners but think im going to try the 8" middle,6" fo a little more bite
I didnt revalve yet,was going to change the oil in the shocks
think i shoud try the revalve?will that help the bottoming out?
or should i get heavier springs?

 

[jgustman]

I love my sled but I like to get the suspension better.
Im 250 with gear on and i bottom out a lot.
springs on hard,front skid just snug so spring does not flop around,
limiter straps 1 hole down from loosest setting(i hand them 1 hole up from the tightest last year but broke the l straps),click about 5 back from stiffest,
fox at 50 but going to go to 45,having some inside ski lift,put new slides on and tightened track 135 mm sag,pilot 5.7(no need for power steering) 6"middle and 4" runners but think im going to try the 8" middle,6" fo a little more bite
I didnt revalve yet,was going to change the oil in the shocks
think i shoud try the revalve?will that help the bottoming out?
or should i get heavier springs?

If you read the sticky post on shock valving 101 with the '07-'09 apex rtx's, (which is at the top of the apex forum posts) that should answer your question of why it's bottoming out, yet rides like a brick in small bumps.
To make a long story short, yamaha crapped the bed on our shock valving in the rear suspension using a single stage valving setup, when everyone else uses a 2 or 3 stage setup, which rides much smoother and keeps you from bottoming out in the big bumps. So, it's not so much yamaha's suspensions that suck, just the shock valving they used. I can't believe they intentionally set them up this way. Maybe there is a patent infringement law or something keeping them from using good shock valving.

 

[apexrtxmaniac]

Definitely get a re-valve.