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No washer behind secondary

Soupy said:
The stock secondary allows float, after the sled is moving, outward not inward.
Click to expand...
ms

Up until recently everything I have read always suggested that 61mm was the number to strive for when measuring offset. Now it seems that this may not be the case. Seems to me that since the clutch can always float out if needed once it has started shifting it makes more sense to be closer to the 58mm measurement. If set at 61 it can never float in less than the 61mm measurement. Unless I’m missing something, which is very possible lol.
 

True......

And more and more are finding 58-59mm offset to run cooler.

Ive just set mine up there, so will see.....prob not til next season tho unfortunately.
 
Correct. This is why I started the "Why 61mm offset?" thread long ago, of course never got any good answers.
 
Soupy said:
Correct. This is why I started the "Why 61mm offset?" thread long ago, of course never got any good answers.
Click to expand...
I hear ya.....Been reading for near 2 seasons now how 61mm was the spot....and now all the sudden guys saying 58 is cooler....I sure hope it does something for belt life. I never felt like mine were hot to begin with tho.

How have you made out recently?

I keep hoping you get yours fixed as it seems to be the most extreme belt issue here.

Any snow left to test?
 
Soupy said:
Correct. This is why I started the "Why 61mm offset?" thread long ago, of course never got any good answers.
Click to expand...
Yeah I noticed that thread with no responses. I think I’ll try mine without the washer. With one washer I’m right at 61mm. Mine has been good on belts but I’m so worried about blowing one I never hold it open too long. I do notice my clutches run substantially hotter than anyone else in our group, including a viper.
 
No washers behind mine, and no belt issues 975 miles all on EVO stage 4 and 180 1.64 stingers. I did grenade 1 belt at 400 miles but figured out it was glazed and not broke in properly.
 
ROCKERDAN said:
I hear ya.....Been reading for near 2 seasons now how 61mm was the spot....and now all the sudden guys saying 58 is cooler....I sure hope it does something for belt life. I never felt like mine were hot to begin with tho.

How have you made out recently?

I keep hoping you get yours fixed as it seems to be the most extreme belt issue here.

Any snow left to test?
Click to expand...

No good, blew another 8jp within about 100 miles. Clutches still hot at 58.5mm and even down to 56mm, trying to let it float. Got pissed and dropped it off to Priceless Performance. They're well known and have a chassis dyno so hopefully he can figure it out. 16 belts now in 3000 miles...

Trying to get to the Wawa area next wknd but no snow left in the lower and went fishing on my lake yesterday, sucks!
 
Been reading your posts. Can’t believe how many belts you have gone through. I would be so pissed I would drive to Quebec and have it stolen! Lol. Maybe it isn’t clutch related. How is the chassis? Does it coast well and run freely? Maybe twisted or deformed somehow. Let us know when you solve your problem. All of us are curious.
 
fourload said:
Been reading your posts. Can’t believe how many belts you have gone through. I would be so pissed I would drive to Quebec and have it stolen! Lol. Maybe it isn’t clutch related. How is the chassis? Does it coast well and run freely? Maybe twisted or deformed somehow. Let us know when you solve your problem. All of us are curious.
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With the exception of this issue, I love the sled so I keep at it. Track spins very freely by hand on the stand. Sled doesn't coast to a stop as well as I thought but I think different clutch springs change the engine braking amount. I agree possibly twisted or deformed but clutch alignment is good so maybe I'll learn something from the chassis dyno.
 
Soupy said:
With the exception of this issue, I love the sled so I keep at it. Track spins very freely by hand on the stand. Sled doesn't coast to a stop as well as I thought but I think different clutch springs change the engine braking amount. I agree possibly twisted or deformed but clutch alignment is good so maybe I'll learn something from the chassis dyno.
Click to expand...
Yes the track dyno should tell you a lot. Too bad you have to spend all the time and money on the friggin thing. You are a very patient man!!
 
Last edited:
Soupy be sure to check the vertical reading of each clutch. Some cats back in 12 were setting too low on PTO side so the primary sheave was not vertically equal to the secondary. That is the one thing that is harder to check for, but if the clutches are not both vertically equal, you will make heat fast. I assume you have checked it but this is one reading you really gotta check closely.

Yours if the most extreme blower for sure, and I give you credit for sticking with it. Mine is not nearly as bad and it pisses me off, so i feel your pain brother.

Dan
 
Got my stuff back from my machinist.....

Had him take off 4mm off hub, which makes it past flush when full shifted. And then I had him make me 3 shims, that are a slightly smaller OD then stock YAM shims. This way I can shim it wherever I want, and it will allow the shim to go inside if need be.

I had him make me a 2mm, 1.5mm, 1mm, shown in pic below....and then the stock 1mm which is larger OD.

I am now able to put my clutch anywhere from 58mm on up to 61. Where mine sits, I use the 1.5mm and end up right around 58.8mm or just under 59mm. Which I think is where I will put it now.

Dan

IMG_1661.jpg
IMG_1662.jpg
 
You do need to mock it up without spring in helix, to full shift...and be certain the backside of secondary at full shift does not contact the main bearing bracket, as the bearing is set inward with circlip.

Mine ends up very close due to where my engine is set.

Dan
 
No shim in mine from factory, 59.6 offset , 4600 miles blew 1 belt at 2500 miles under multiple wot back to back running. High torque rollers in the secondary from new as well
 
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