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Secondary without spacing washers?


I figured out what's going on here, my caliper that I use at work has the inside and outside jaws aligned, the one I am using at my shop does not, :dunno:
That being said, the real distance was initially 60.1 mm, I removed the shim and ended up with 59.1, gonna try her there.
Machine 2 mm and put washer back;)
 
I figured out what's going on here, my caliper that I use at work has the inside and outside jaws aligned, the one I am using at my shop does not, :dunno:
That being said, the real distance was initially 60.1 mm, I removed the shim and ended up with 59.1, gonna try her there.
59.1 is fine, been running that since new no issues
 
The perfect spot is to get a Hurricane clutch alignment tool and you will be bang on my past experience IMO.

thanks Pan
What does the Hurricane alignment bar set offset at? Measuring it pretty easy with right tools.
 
What does the Hurricane alignment bar set offset at? Measuring it pretty easy with right tools.

The edge and center are both accurate ways of setting offset as long as the parallel of the motor and Jackshaft are good. If the parallel is off the Hurricane tool is better and gets you closer to a good alignment.
Instead of measuring at the outside edge of the primary you measure at the centerline of the primary. If the primary is cocked a little one way or the other, measuring at the edge of the primary will be off but not if you measure at the clutch centerline. Also the tool is pinched between the secondary which provides a simulation of a straight belt comming off the secondary extended out to the centerline of the primary, not the edge of the primary, which could yield a different measurement if the clutches were not perfectly parallel.
 
The edge and center are both accurate ways of setting offset as long as the parallel of the motor and Jackshaft are good. If the parallel is off the Hurricane tool is better and gets you closer to a good alignment.
Instead of measuring at the outside edge of the primary you measure at the centerline of the primary. If the primary is cocked a little one way or the other, measuring at the edge of the primary will be off but not if you measure at the clutch centerline. Also the tool is pinched between the secondary which provides a simulation of a straight belt comming off the secondary extended out to the centerline of the primary, not the edge of the primary, which could yield a different measurement if the clutches were not perfectly parallel.
I remember setting up parallelism a little offset on the old race sleds to take into account the clutches pulling together under full load, being that these sleds are torque monsters, is any consideration given to this effect when under full load?
 
I remember setting up parallelism a little offset on the old race sleds to take into account the clutches pulling together under full load, being that these sleds are torque monsters, is any consideration given to this effect when under full load?

No they do not account for torque pulling in the clutch center or shifting the engine off parallel. The mounts are much stiffer than the old sleds but a tuned Winder will move the motor somewhat, hence being on the low side of offset helps account somewhat.
I did a test where I took off my clutch and put a dial indicator on the motor. With the long clutch bolt screwed into the engine. With a 10” piece of pipe on the end of the bolt I could fairly easily move the motor around .030~.040” then it seemed to get stiff fast. No matter that’s enough for me, I made a torque link to help hold my engine straight. This was a huge problem with the Cat 1100 turbos, so I wasn’t taking any chances.
 
C6EDAD7F-622C-45D2-8A5C-B735C5406029.jpeg
If the engine twists clockwise it will actually push the centers further apart.
 


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