Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I jigged a factory upper a-arm so I know my fabricated ones are good. Lowers should be good since my stance is 36”. The ball joint boot just seems awfully bound up when turning at full extension but maybe that’s just how they are?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Ok looking at your pic maybe that’s just how they are. Thanks.
They are. 16.4" is a bit long too.View attachment 167937I have the holes on my struts drilled at 16.4” c to c.
I jigged a factory upper a-arm so I know my fabricated ones are good. Lowers should be good since my stance is 36”. The ball joint boot just seems awfully bound up when turning at full extension but maybe that’s just how they are?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Will your sled allow you to get a measurement like this? I trust that your camber is set to what’s ideal and maybe my rod ends are in too far. It’s about 9.25” from the center of where it mounts to edge of the rod end race.
Do you need any dimensions off this?
Sure but mine is a 38”Will your sled allow you to get a measurement like this? I trust that your camber is set to what’s ideal and maybe my rod ends are in too far. It’s about 9.25” from the center of where it mounts to edge of the rod end race.
View attachment 167938
10 3/4"Will your sled allow you to get a measurement like this? I trust that your camber is set to what’s ideal and maybe my rod ends are in too far. It’s about 9.25” from the center of where it mounts to edge of the rod end race.
View attachment 167938
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Sorry I didn’t catch the part that you have a 38” front end.
I don’t need any measurements off the frame, I used one when I built the jig.
I don’t need any measurements off the frame, I used one when I built the jig.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
They are. 16.4" is a bit long too.
Do you know what the compressed c to c distance is?
These are factory specsDo you know what the compressed c to c distance is?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Trying to determine how much swing there is in the steering so I can get the tie rod clearance correct.
Do these turn until the tie rod part of the spindle hits the a-arm? Wondering how much further I need to go. Thanks for all the help BTW.
Do these turn until the tie rod part of the spindle hits the a-arm? Wondering how much further I need to go. Thanks for all the help BTW.
No. On standard chassis the stem hits at link. The proclimb which mine is it hits at the frog since there is no linkage. Tie rod hitting the shock is where shock length is critical on both.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Ok thanks. I will put my shocks back together and stop the steering when the tie rod gets close to the shock shaft.
Yes. Really crank on ski. I have seen damage from flex on 36” front. It’s a fine point where it stops and if forced past that point it easily folds much further bending tie rod right around shock. Might just be the ones with linkage to stem. Never heard of that with others.Ok thanks. I will put my shocks back together and stop the steering when the tie rod gets close to the shock shaft.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Assembled my shocks without nitrogen or oil so I could cycle the suspension.
After shortening the shafts this is what they ended up.
Extended 16.375”
Stroke 5.09”
Collapsed 11.285”
Your chart showed the stock 36” Fox shocks having 5.48” stroke so I have less travel but I don’t think it will be much of an issue. If the ride quality sucks I’ll swap shocks later down the road after testing.
Should have waited to build upper a-arms until I had the shocks in. I could have moved the front a-arm bolt back another inch putting the tabs into the tube node and still cleared the shock.
Should have the needed tie rod clearance figured out by tonight and I can move forward with a plan to correct it.
After shortening the shafts this is what they ended up.
Extended 16.375”
Stroke 5.09”
Collapsed 11.285”
Your chart showed the stock 36” Fox shocks having 5.48” stroke so I have less travel but I don’t think it will be much of an issue. If the ride quality sucks I’ll swap shocks later down the road after testing.
Should have waited to build upper a-arms until I had the shocks in. I could have moved the front a-arm bolt back another inch putting the tabs into the tube node and still cleared the shock.
Should have the needed tie rod clearance figured out by tonight and I can move forward with a plan to correct it.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 4
- Views
- 4K
- Replies
- 32
- Views
- 4K
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.