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Nyper build thread

Agreed. I’m going to try and make a mold and make the sides, top and front a 1-piece tunnel liner. That would cut the fasteners needed to hold it in place by at least half.

I was also off on my weights. I allowed myself 1.5 lbs for heat shields at flex joints and 4 lbs for the tunnel liner/skin so I should be under that and well on my way to a 50 lb frame with cooling system.
 

Want to run a temp gauge. Koso Super Slim is the smallest digital garage I could find. Planning on drilling and tapping the thermostat housing for the sensor. Any reason this wouldn’t be a good spot?


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I would want a gauge that reads to at least -40 degrees. It doesn't make sense to have engine temperatures which will exceed the limits of the gauge reading.
 
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I will have boost and AFR and have separate gauges for them, I’ll look at the Koso 3 in 1, that would be a cleaner setup.

Something like this? Pricey.
Yes that is the one, man inflation is a B****! I think I paid $299 for mine LOL. Its still BNID I didn't get a chance to use it before I crashed that apex. I was going to add it to my Orange flame just to see what is going on and figure out why its popping motors.
 
Want to run a temp gauge. Koso Super Slim is the smallest digital garage I could find. Planning on drilling and tapping the thermostat housing for the sensor. Any reason this wouldn’t be a good spot?


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That is exactly the setup and spot I use on all 3 of my Yamahas. Works great.
 
The Koso is like 200 grams or something, I thought it was going to save me like .5lb over the 3 gauge set up IIRC. Nothing wrong with either, I did like the Koso can set up warning lights and I thought it would be a little easier to see. At over 20 lbs of boost the gauge becomes a blur.
 
Very easy for me to get sidetracked, back to oil tanks now. Did a practice run to make sure I could get all the bends in. I wanted to bend it like this so I could fit the baffling easier. The outer cap I weld on will have a bend on the left and right that overlap 1” so I can get really nice lap welds since I’m only using .063.

Quick and dirty test run
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After some practice bends on scraps and getting the brake adjusted right I bent up the two pieces. Total depth in the center is 2.75”, Nytro tank is a little over 5”.

The cardboard was the goal, the white piece is what I traced out after it was bent up. Some of the bends weren’t exact but it ended up slightly larger which is better than being smaller.
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The outside piece overlaps each side 0.75” for an easy weld.
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Going to cut apart the stock tank tomorrow and start dissecting the baffling.
 
Been busy with some other stuff but flex joints came in so I was able to wrap up the turbo mount.

Glad I waited because the new flex joints are slightly longer. They seem like they allow for more flex as well.
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New copper gaskets and ordered new bolts with 10mm heads to make installation easier.
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Cut a .040 spacer to put below the header bracket to account for future heat shield.
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I pushed the header forward a little to lightly preload the flex joints before tightening the bolts. Then made the turbo bracket out of .063 plate. Was hoping to be under 0.1 lbs and it ended up 0.03 lbs.
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Probably cut out the aluminum heat shield for above the header next and then finish the oil tank.
 
Template for aluminum heat shield so far. The rest will be CF. Thoughts on if the aluminum should be bigger or smaller? Less alu the better for ice buildup but I would think that small of piece should stay clear with heat from the header. If CF can take the heat I could narrow the sides up another 1/2-3/4 on each side so instead of overlapping the header it’s the exact size of it. Essentially trimming it down to the permanent marker.
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