kinger
VIP Member
Still can’t believe you’re using an iron turbine housing. I went SS vbands years ago just for the 1+lb weight savings.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Not in the cards at the moment, but not out of the picture. Even when finished I will always be tinkering with this sled to continue to drop weight and improve performance.
-lighter turbo setup
-lightweight rear suspension parts
-belt drive
-custom lightweight spindles
-lightweight lower a-arms
Ect ect
Got lots of future ideas for down the road. Nice thing about the steel tube frame and only being spray painted is it’s very easy to make modifications.
-lighter turbo setup
-lightweight rear suspension parts
-belt drive
-custom lightweight spindles
-lightweight lower a-arms
Ect ect
Got lots of future ideas for down the road. Nice thing about the steel tube frame and only being spray painted is it’s very easy to make modifications.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
This what your talking about?
So you trade the bolt flanges on the exhaust inlet/outlet for v-bands but then have to use an external wastegate?
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Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
In-laws have been here so not much progress but I think I got the heat shield figured out. Extended it over to cover the exhaust a little so the CF wouldn’t be right up against it.
kinger
VIP Member
No that is still iron. Look at the Tial SS housings. Stainless steel is lighter and shows 2lbs on that site. Yes external gate required. They are better flow anyway.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I’ll check them out, thanks.
Finished the heat shield. Made from .040 7075 aluminum, 0.68 lbs.
Finished the heat shield. Made from .040 7075 aluminum, 0.68 lbs.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The inside of a factory Nytro oil tank.
The breather has an internal opening on the top back, and only a very small drain hole at the front bottom that drains down to the second baffle.
The inlet tube goes into a 3” diameter cylinder. I looked inside with a mirror and it’s just a larger cylinder with no internal baffling.
Opening at the top of cylinder is just a tube inserted about 1”
Inlet goes into side of cylinder. The hole is larger than the inlet tube.
Bottom of cylinder is sealed against lowest baffle and just has 3 equal size drains
I don’t think it will be too difficult to duplicate it.
The breather has an internal opening on the top back, and only a very small drain hole at the front bottom that drains down to the second baffle.
The inlet tube goes into a 3” diameter cylinder. I looked inside with a mirror and it’s just a larger cylinder with no internal baffling.
Opening at the top of cylinder is just a tube inserted about 1”
Inlet goes into side of cylinder. The hole is larger than the inlet tube.
Bottom of cylinder is sealed against lowest baffle and just has 3 equal size drains
I don’t think it will be too difficult to duplicate it.
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Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Opened up top of cylinder to give a better view of Inlet and the tube inside.
HighSpeedLowDrag
Pro
Are there pictures of a sectioned apex oil tank? They don't leak leak with the machine tipped over while I understand nytro tanks do.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I have not seen any pics of a cut apart Apex oil tank. It would be nice to design the breather setup a little differently to reduce oil loss.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
A couple thoughts. When upside down, the only way for oil to get into the breather is when it drains thru the cutout that the arrow is pointing to.
So instead of having a single cutout, I would think a bunch of small holes (1/8-3/16) spread out would help limit the amount of oil that drains while upside down while still venting air fine.
And then extending the breather tube down another 3/4” would also limit oil loss as the oil tank would have to fill that much more when upside down before losing oil.
Any additional thoughts?
So instead of having a single cutout, I would think a bunch of small holes (1/8-3/16) spread out would help limit the amount of oil that drains while upside down while still venting air fine.
And then extending the breather tube down another 3/4” would also limit oil loss as the oil tank would have to fill that much more when upside down before losing oil.
Any additional thoughts?
RobX-1
VIP Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 2,197
- Location
- Coldwater, OH
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 18 50th Apex XT-X, 08 40th Apex LTX GT, 08 40th Nytro RTX, & 03 RX-1
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Think I got a plan for the breather. Here’s a pic with dipstick installed just 1 turn to hold it for oil lever reference.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Got some time to think about the oil tank again. Tentative layout for dipstick location, breather location and location of internal cylinder. Factory cylinder is about 7” sq in so I have the equivalent oval mocked up. Have inlet tube angled into curve like stock. I’m assuming they don’t want oil just hitting a flat wall to minimize air.
Breather option 1 seems better of the two. Given the location of the internal cylinder, the inlet makes sense as well - in and slightly down, yes you want the path to be fast and smooth to avoid aeration. Not sure what you are planning for bodywork but the only other consideration is if you want to limit the amount of bodywork to remove, or minimize the size of an access hatch, you may want your radiator fill, and oil fill to be co-located as closely as possible. If you are planning on pulling a large panel off the side then it doesn't matter. While you are on that thought process, hose routing becomes a consideration so you can parallel hoses, share clamps/mounts, etc.. All looks great!
