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Once upon a time, I had a belt blower, then Mike Knapp and Clutchmaster did some magic

The BLK/BLU would definitely need more weight, it's a good bit stiffer than the BLK/GRN. I have the BLK/BLU and will likely try it a different day. The snow was pretty soft, I'm sure if I could have found a long enough icy road that I would have been over 9000 rpm and need more weight. Knapp also recommended trying the 8DN for more consistency, which I will. One change at a time.

Art, actually the Dalton blue is lighter than the green. Only at the very top is the blue just a few lbs. stronger than the Green. It basically finishes the same.
 

While I am getting closer to where I need to be, I still get a vibration when cruising at 70-90 mph. I used to think it was snow buildup in the tunnel but after last week I think it is the secondary slipping. Might have to try this spring. Can I run it with the 35 helix or do I need something steeper?
Slipping secondary is Knapp's theory too. @ClutchMaster or @KnappAttack will have to opine on the right wrap with that spring on a 35°, but it's a monster, they both wanted a steeper helix which is why I went with the 38°.
 
The BLK/BLU would definitely need more weight, it's a good bit stiffer than the BLK/GRN. I have the BLK/BLU and will likely try it a different day. The snow was pretty soft, I'm sure if I could have found a long enough icy road that I would have been over 9000 rpm and need more weight. Knapp also recommended trying the 8DN for more consistency, which I will. One change at a time.
I meant BLK/TEAL - NOT BLK/BLU, too much to keep track of for me.
 
So I’m no expert but here’s my 2 cents. Last year I tried the tp orange secondary spring, prior to using this spring I hadn’t blown a belt the whole first season. I blew 3 belts in 500 kms with the tp orange. I had it at the recommended 70 degrees and went as low as 40 degrees. Clutches were smoking hot and I took out 3 belts in one trip. ( I didn’t bring my stock spring with me).

I got home and put in the dalton black orange in and ended up at 3-3. 2000’ pulls back to back to back, cool clutches and no blown belts. I trail ride with this setup and have yet to blow another belt. All this with a 41/35 dalton.

So the other day I thought I’d try the 35 for the hell of it. I wrapped it at 6-1 and went for a ride. I made some good pulls on the rail bed but I could hear it slipping. I stopped and clutches were smoking hot and rubber all over my sheaves.

Maybe I’m out to lunch but my sled seems to work better with more helix and less spring force. Cool clutches all day long. Again my 2 cents.

DMC what is your offset and center to center?
 
Great to hear @Beerman!

@ClutchMaster has been a huge help for me as well. Very patient, lots of recommendations and a wealth of info. My belt blowing issue is still not resolved but we're working on my secondary now too, hopefully I'll start to see positive results like you Art.
 
Do you guys happen to have the Arctic Cat part number for the cat green spring ?
 
What’s the verdict on float beerman?!!

To float or not to float?!

Trail rider wants float Since they are rarely 1-1 shift?
Lake racer wants no float due to being to the bar most of the time?

What’s the train of thought here.

Thanks
 
Offset is 60.65, never measured centre to centre.

Well these sleds are very picky on offset. Have you tried a lower offset? Good idea to check your centers and parallel also. If your having issues running what others have found to work it’s usually a alignment issue.
 
What does black mark about a third of the way up the primary inner sheive?
Not enough clutch weight, or secondary is being pushed open prematurely, losing belt tension. Basically slipping... lol
 
What’s the verdict on float beerman?!!

To float or not to float?!

Trail rider wants float Since they are rarely 1-1 shift?
Lake racer wants no float due to being to the bar most of the time?

What’s the train of thought here.

Thanks


Everyone has a different thought. ClutchMaster and myself like NO FLOAT. For the trail guy not on the throttle the whole way from bottom to top, float may be alright.

Set your driven to float, lock the brake and pull the driven outwards, now twist it by hand as though you are applying power to the front of the sled like the belt would be applying and try and push it inwards, just by hand, now imagine multiplying it many-many times over from the engines power. Do you think the driven is going to self align without letting off the power at some point? I don't think it will myself so I set up for no float.

Notice that Beerman also pulled a cord but caught it in time to cut it off and burn it. I have not pulled a cord yet running the 8DN. Does that prove anything? I don't know, maybe, maybe not. I don't have enough miles yet to confirm or deny any of it due to the lousy, hell non-existant winter were having here at home. Have a week long trip coming up to see if I can learn more myself.

One thing I know is I have never had any issues setting up for no float on past turbo or even NA machines, and I have had numerous belt issues floating. So I'm never floating any of my own machines again. What works for one guy, may not work for another, it all depends on the circumstances.
 


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