kennyspec
Expert
worked a bit more on the sled. I would really like to avoid building a aluminum fuel tank for it just to save time and maybe get it running this winter. the nytro tank almost fits.....but I hate how all the fuel is up so high. I thought of using a assault tank but I don't want it too close to the exhaust as that is where the turbo is going to sit.
I also started on my tunnel block off plate. what a pain has been so far. it is a bit crude but should work. at the closest point I have 3.25" of clearance to the drivers.
A question on the coolant routing. I have eliminated the bulkhead cooler and will only be running a large tunnel cooler. Do I need to run a thermostat? I am assuming I should as I ride a lot of flatland and thought that there would be to big of a temperature change without it?
So with the thermostat OPEN I am assuming that coolant would go from the outlet of the cooler to the inlet on the engine and then the coolant comes out the front mag side of the engine and would go into the side of the tstat housing and out the top and finally to the other inlet side of the cooler.
So with the tstat CLOSED I need to connect the line from the bottom of the tstat housing back to a "T" before the waterpump inlet on the engine? basically making a really short bypass for the coolant to flow back to the waterpump inlet?
I also started on my tunnel block off plate. what a pain has been so far. it is a bit crude but should work. at the closest point I have 3.25" of clearance to the drivers.
A question on the coolant routing. I have eliminated the bulkhead cooler and will only be running a large tunnel cooler. Do I need to run a thermostat? I am assuming I should as I ride a lot of flatland and thought that there would be to big of a temperature change without it?
So with the thermostat OPEN I am assuming that coolant would go from the outlet of the cooler to the inlet on the engine and then the coolant comes out the front mag side of the engine and would go into the side of the tstat housing and out the top and finally to the other inlet side of the cooler.
So with the tstat CLOSED I need to connect the line from the bottom of the tstat housing back to a "T" before the waterpump inlet on the engine? basically making a really short bypass for the coolant to flow back to the waterpump inlet?
kennyspec
Expert
worked a bit more on the cooler. got the input/output ports welded up
also got the waterpump hose put on and routed through the tubes. its really close but should work.
also got the waterpump hose put on and routed through the tubes. its really close but should work.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
nice work !
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
If you do end up building an aluminum fuel tank, I'd be curious as to the finished weight and if it's lighter or heavier than a Nytro tank. I would think .080 would be plenty thick enough. Wouldn't be too complicated if you did something similar to Powerhouse Customs.
I here you on wanting to get it done and on the snow though. I pretty much just gave up on riding any time soon haha.
I here you on wanting to get it done and on the snow though. I pretty much just gave up on riding any time soon haha.
kinger
VIP Member
I love tubie builds!!! You have amazing patience, I am building my apex V2 in my head and everything you post really helps me!! Especially the weights of things. Great work!
kinger
VIP Member
On your coolant question, yes your spot on. I would run a T-stat with a short bypass when closed and then out to the cooler when open.
kennyspec
Expert
If I do a aluminum tank I will weigh it at the end. I think I would want to use 5052 alloy for ease of bending? I wonder if I can use the stock fuel pump assembly and just adapt a couple pickups on the bottom of it. It wouldn't sit at the same angle and I think it would leave a lot of fuel in the bottom of the tank if I just left it the way it was. Thanks for the tstat advice kinger, the bypass loop will basically just be a hose no real cooling in the loop.
A buddy of mine is a structural engineer and he advised me to add a couple of tubes to my design. The clutch is in the way on the one side of optimum placement but I think what I was able to add is better than nothing.
I also got a smaller tig torch and went down one size on the tungsten. It really helped a lot on the thin stuff.
A buddy of mine is a structural engineer and he advised me to add a couple of tubes to my design. The clutch is in the way on the one side of optimum placement but I think what I was able to add is better than nothing.
I also got a smaller tig torch and went down one size on the tungsten. It really helped a lot on the thin stuff.
kennyspec
Expert
I got the front tunnel enclosure almost complete. I hate all the tin work. Its kind of ugly but should look fine once painted.
I tried to get it as close to the jackshaft as I could.
I was worried that when the tstat opens that most of the coolant is going to just go through my bypass loop as it would have less restriction than the coolers. But it looks as if when the tstat opens the bottom plate would kind of seal off the lower hole in the housing. I assume this would block most of the flow to the bypass loop forcing the coolant through the coolers.
Also started on the coolant tube. it is 1" .065 aluminum tube. My bender was able to bent it easily without kinking.
This pic is of where the "T" will be for the bypass loop.
I think it am going to redo it a bit where it comes across the front of the engine.
I tried to get it as close to the jackshaft as I could.
I was worried that when the tstat opens that most of the coolant is going to just go through my bypass loop as it would have less restriction than the coolers. But it looks as if when the tstat opens the bottom plate would kind of seal off the lower hole in the housing. I assume this would block most of the flow to the bypass loop forcing the coolant through the coolers.
Also started on the coolant tube. it is 1" .065 aluminum tube. My bender was able to bent it easily without kinking.
This pic is of where the "T" will be for the bypass loop.
I think it am going to redo it a bit where it comes across the front of the engine.
kennyspec
Expert
worked some more on the coolant routing. I still have to figure out where I am going to install a expansion bottle and try to source a small one. 
anyone remember where this coolant line leads to? I can check on my other nytro if no one remembers.
anyone remember where this coolant line leads to? I can check on my other nytro if no one remembers.
kennyspec
Expert
figured out what thte tube was coming from the engine in the last picture. its the oil return to the tank lol. got the tank mounted its real tight but will work for now.
I was also comparing a 155 cat skid to a 144 polaris skid. the rails are the same length. interesting.....
started working on the seat. I want it higher than the nytro. I really like the seating position of my phazer.
with a bit of cutting it looks like the factory nytro tank may work.
I was also comparing a 155 cat skid to a 144 polaris skid. the rails are the same length. interesting.....
started working on the seat. I want it higher than the nytro. I really like the seating position of my phazer.
with a bit of cutting it looks like the factory nytro tank may work.
kennyspec
Expert
the fuel tank and seat are now complete. seat mount is all .120 wall 1"alum. feels like it weighs nothing.
That is a really nice design for the seat mount. What aluminum did you use for the tubing? I usually cannot bend 6061 without cracking, especially in a T6. I want to make a tunnel rack to carry a small Pelican waterproof case, and I'll need to make some sharp 90 bends ... would 6063 be a better choice? I would like to mount the rack to my bumper, which is round tube, in the same way that your seat mount sits on top of your tunnel. So I'm wondering how you will fasten your seat mount to the tunnel (rivets?). Please post pics of the seat mount after it's fastened to the tube chassis. Again, great design and great work!
kennyspec
Expert
I believe the alum is 6061 not too sure if its t6 or t1. the metal supplier didn't know. it is all 1" .120 wall. the first stick I bent didn't crack, but then the second stick did but it was left outside in the cold. after lightly heating it with a propane torch it would bend without cracking. I am really trying to avoid drilling any holes into any of the structural tubes. One for fear of them filling with water and rusting and secondly as I don't want to loose any strength. I have thought of making a "L" shaped tab that the seat tubes kinda click under in the rear and then is just fastened at the front area. I will probably just use a rivet or a screw to hold it to the chromo tube. I have also thought of drilling a 1/4" hole through the tube vertically and then welding in a sleeve and using a bolt and nut to secure it. Thanks for the compliments. Its been a long build!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
6061 will bend fine if you anneal it first. A crude method is to scribble permanent marker on the bend area and then heat it with a propane torch until the marker disappears, then bend it. Like I said, it's crude but it works incredibly well.
Thanks for the tip Caleb. I take it the marker serves no other purpose other than to indicate when the material is sufficiently annealed. Question: Does this affect the temper of the aluminum? I realize that temper changes somewhat by welding (in the HAZ), but does annealing reduce the overall structural strength of the aluminum?
Similar threads
