NLViper
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At the end of last season I was doing some running on a hard packed road with no scratches.
My temp light would come on then I would stop and wait for the sled to cool down and then continue on. This happened approx 4 to 5 times and on the last time I was not far from the truck so I ran with it on for about 5 mins.
Sled seemed to run fine after this just wanted to confirm that this did not do any damage to the sled. I seem to remember reading somewhere that the temp light comes on long before any damage can be done to the engine.
My temp light would come on then I would stop and wait for the sled to cool down and then continue on. This happened approx 4 to 5 times and on the last time I was not far from the truck so I ran with it on for about 5 mins.
Sled seemed to run fine after this just wanted to confirm that this did not do any damage to the sled. I seem to remember reading somewhere that the temp light comes on long before any damage can be done to the engine.
APEX 06
TY 4 Stroke God
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It should be fine.
raginyamaha
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should be fine, i recommend getting the mtx heat exchanger and flushig coolant and adding some water wetter when u fill it up, if u dont want to see it again. my 08 it would pop on every once in a while. Hoping the mtx exchanger will stop that now.
mach9
TY 4 Stroke Master
Vents in the hood behind the rad worked for me.
There is too much trapped heat over the motor and not much air flow through the rad.
There is too much trapped heat over the motor and not much air flow through the rad.
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
I think the instrument panel vent would probably work really well.
http://oftracing.com/Store/index.php?ma ... cts_id=205
http://oftracing.com/Store/index.php?ma ... cts_id=205
revster
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I've got the MTX cooler and ModRod vents and I still had the engine light come on once. It was on a cool day after a warm up, so the MTX cooler wasn't seeing much snow. I was running about 80 mph on a cold day, so pretty clear to me that rad can't cut it when It's asked to do the job solo.
I bought a water temp gauge for this year so I can keep as eye on it.
Anyone know what temp the light comes on at?
I bought a water temp gauge for this year so I can keep as eye on it.
Anyone know what temp the light comes on at?
canoehead
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Did some research on the "Water Wetter", not exactly the best additive for the cooling system. It actually will leave some deposits in the coolant which could be adverse or damage the system. So think about it hard and do your due diligence before adding. Good Luckraginyamaha said:should be fine, i recommend getting the mtx heat exchanger and flushig coolant and adding some water wetter when u fill it up, if u dont want to see it again. my 08 it would pop on every once in a while. Hoping the mtx exchanger will stop that now.
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I have a Phazer but the idea is the same.
By adding a vent to the back of the panel with the rad there will be added air flow. The fan pull the air into the rad but then the air gets all bunched up in there along with the hot oil tank adding heat.
Having a place for the air to go will make a huge difference in the heat exchanging.
By adding a vent to the back of the panel with the rad there will be added air flow. The fan pull the air into the rad but then the air gets all bunched up in there along with the hot oil tank adding heat.
Having a place for the air to go will make a huge difference in the heat exchanging.
mach9
TY 4 Stroke Master
revster said:I've got the MTX cooler and ModRod vents and I still had the engine light come on once. It was on a cool day after a warm up, so the MTX cooler wasn't seeing much snow. I was running about 80 mph on a cold day, so pretty clear to me that rad can't cut it when It's asked to do the job solo.
I bought a water temp gauge for this year so I can keep as eye on it.
Anyone know what temp the light comes on at?
I have a water temp. gauge.
In my opinion the light comes on deep into the 200F+ range.
I've not seen the light come on at all last year so I don't know the exact # and I don't want to see it that high ever.
I also run a cooler temp t-stat. 125F
The stock t-stat starts to open at 160F but may not be fully open til 170+
In stock trim, when it opens to flow rad coolant, it's too late.
Then it's a real fight to keep the temp down below 200 even when on a trail of decent snow. Soft powder was the only way I could bring it back down to a 185 zone.
The nytro makes it's best HP between 160 and 170 but that means exhaust is somewhat dirty. Yamaha designed the system in stock form to run around 200F, a hotter temp to burn off the dirt and get better emissions.
Vents, t-stat mod I did was to keep the lady sing around 170 most of the time. If I've ever let it idle for even 30 sec. the temp goes up 200+ faster and higher than Courtney Love in a crack house.
revster
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mach9 said:revster said:I've got the MTX cooler and ModRod vents and I still had the engine light come on once. It was on a cool day after a warm up, so the MTX cooler wasn't seeing much snow. I was running about 80 mph on a cold day, so pretty clear to me that rad can't cut it when It's asked to do the job solo.
I bought a water temp gauge for this year so I can keep as eye on it.
Anyone know what temp the light comes on at?
I have a water temp. gauge.
In my opinion the light comes on deep into the 200F+ range.
I've not seen the light come on at all last year so I don't know the exact # and I don't want to see it that high ever.
I also run a cooler temp t-stat. 125F
The stock t-stat starts to open at 160F but may not be fully open til 170+
In stock trim, when it opens to flow rad coolant, it's too late.
Then it's a real fight to keep the temp down below 200 even when on a trail of decent snow. Soft powder was the only way I could bring it back down to a 185 zone.
The nytro makes it's best HP between 160 and 170 but that means exhaust is somewhat dirty. Yamaha designed the system in stock form to run around 200F, a hotter temp to burn off the dirt and get better emissions.
Vents, t-stat mod I did was to keep the lady sing around 170 most of the time. If I've ever let it idle for even 30 sec. the temp goes up 200+ faster and higher than Courtney Love in a crack house.
Solid intel, thanks for posting.
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Fan kicks on at 200*F and light comes on at 210*F. These sleds will not shut down from being hot unless you are simply at an idle!
mach9
TY 4 Stroke Master
It's worth noting oil temp. is a play as well.
If you vent in front of the external oil tank, it will cool the oil a little bit too.
If you vent in front of the external oil tank, it will cool the oil a little bit too.
revster
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Srxspec said:Fan kicks on at 200*F and light comes on at 210*F. These sleds will not shut down from being hot unless you are simply at an idle!
Allan in your opinion what range should the sled be running in?
NLViper
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All great info guys thanks. mach9 is this t-sat a Yamaha part or where did you pick it up at. Is there any other draw backs to running the dirty exhaust besides damaging the environment?
shadow44
TY 4 Stroke God
mach9 said:revster said:I've got the MTX cooler and ModRod vents and I still had the engine light come on once. It was on a cool day after a warm up, so the MTX cooler wasn't seeing much snow. I was running about 80 mph on a cold day, so pretty clear to me that rad can't cut it when It's asked to do the job solo.
I bought a water temp gauge for this year so I can keep as eye on it.
Anyone know what temp the light comes on at?
I have a water temp. gauge.
In my opinion the light comes on deep into the 200F+ range.
I've not seen the light come on at all last year so I don't know the exact # and I don't want to see it that high ever.
I also run a cooler temp t-stat. 125F
The stock t-stat starts to open at 160F but may not be fully open til 170+
In stock trim, when it opens to flow rad coolant, it's too late.
Then it's a real fight to keep the temp down below 200 even when on a trail of decent snow. Soft powder was the only way I could bring it back down to a 185 zone.
The nytro makes it's best HP between 160 and 170 but that means exhaust is somewhat dirty. Yamaha designed the system in stock form to run around 200F, a hotter temp to burn off the dirt and get better emissions.
Vents, t-stat mod I did was to keep the lady sing around 170 most of the time. If I've ever let it idle for even 30 sec. the temp goes up 200+ faster and higher than Courtney Love in a crack house.
Toss up some pics of the hood venting you did there buddy..

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