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Quietest performance muffler

Turbo Dynamics said:
Im sure that pipe works well. But
How do you know that they make the same power? These exhaust are all different in design shape bends and or pipe size. They don't all flow the same.

Our super quiet for example flows very well but not quite like the Turboforce. Our 3 inch race pipe beats our turboforce... our td mod stock flows less than the td super quiet yet a lot more than stock.


http://www.turbodynamics.ca
Click to expand...
Ben like I said real world tested Evo stage 4 and tested on my sled in real world riding conditions using a test mule no dyno just snow the Sandale just plain does it all. If I want all out power Ill make a 3" straight pipe for lake days but for now I will keep piling on the miles 1600 so far this season on my SW
 

stone88 said:
Ben like I said real world tested Evo stage 4 and tested on my sled in real world riding conditions using a test mule no dyno just snow the Sandale just plain does it all. If I want all out power Ill make a 3" straight pipe for lake days but for now I will keep piling on the miles 1600 so far this season on my SW
Click to expand...
Doesn't the Sandale 2.5" use the same MagnaFlow muffler as the TD Super Quiet? I thought they were basically the same, no?
 
Ok guys, So we had the dealer do the chain case, oil change while in for studs....

After reading the long MUFFLER BOLT REMOVAL thread awhile back, we had the dealer install (10.9) bolts on muffler. They are a nice flange head bolt.

So we run the sled about 6 runs on the radar gun here for base readings/stock now that we have studs in her. BTW grampa window was very slow as suspected at over 3.5mph LESS then the stock LE low window. Went from low 109 up to mid 113.8radar. (poor day, wet ice, water on top, soft)

So I went to remove the stock muffler to test another we have here,and sure enough one of the newly installed bolts snaps off.

Now I re-read that long thread and I see Allen mentions Stainless Steel, and others mention grade 8(10.9 metric) and wondering if the SS bolts are a better material to take the hi heat? Im assuming it was the high heat that snapped this 10.9 bolt, it broke right at the point on threads where the gasket is.
 
Beerman said:
Doesn't the Sandale 2.5" use the same MagnaFlow muffler as the TD Super Quiet? I thought they were basically the same, no?
Click to expand...
Very similar yes, but each designer will use his own technique on the turbo downpipe section, and gains can be made here.

I do know Sandale is very well versed in their muffler/turbo outlet design and makes some really nice stuff.

Not taking anything away from Ben.

Dan
 
Dan, i snapped 2 bolts on mine. I went with grade 8 this time & was waiting to see if Stainless is better for heat. I do know that Stainless isn't as strong as grade 8, so i'm waiting on some reports. Also someone on TY uses High Heat Anti-seize good to 5000 degrees, but i haven't located that yet...
 
ROCKERDAN said:
Ok guys, So we had the dealer do the chain case, oil change while in for studs....

After reading the long MUFFLER BOLT REMOVAL thread awhile back, we had the dealer install (10.9) bolts on muffler. They are a nice flange head bolt.

So we run the sled about 6 runs on the radar gun here for base readings/stock now that we have studs in her. BTW grampa window was very slow as suspected at over 3.5mph LESS then the stock LE low window. Went from low 109 up to mid 113.8radar. (poor day, wet ice, water on top, soft)

So I went to remove the stock muffler to test another we have here,and sure enough one of the newly installed bolts snaps off.

Now I re-read that long thread and I see Allen mentions Stainless Steel, and others mention grade 8(10.9 metric) and wondering if the SS bolts are a better material to take the hi heat? Im assuming it was the high heat that snapped this 10.9 bolt, it broke right at the point on threads where the gasket is.
Click to expand...
I feel your pain lol, I've been running with 5 bolts with no issues. I picked up my stainless hex heads at Canadian tire. M8 x 1.25 x 20m. They turned yellow from the heat but have been removed with no issue. Make sure you use lots of high temp copper anti-seize.
 
I also would install new ones every time you take them off, for a few bucks it's a no brainer.
 
deekersrx700 said:
I feel your pain lol, I've been running with 5 bolts with no issues. I picked up my stainless hex heads at Canadian tire. M8 x 1.25 x 20m. They turned yellow from the heat but have been removed with no issue. Make sure you use lots of high temp copper anti-seize.
Click to expand...
Where can i buy this stuff? Nobody carries it around here
 
Ok, i actually used the Copper Anti-seize & it melted off. It's good to 1800 degrees. The Nickel stuff is good to 2400 degrees, but their is a claim on this site for stuff good to 5000 degrees. That's the stuff i can't find...
 
stone88 said:
Ben like I said real world tested Evo stage 4 and tested on my sled in real world riding conditions using a test mule no dyno just snow the Sandale just plain does it all. If I want all out power Ill make a 3" straight pipe for lake days but for now I will keep piling on the miles 1600 so far this season on my SW
Click to expand...
You said their quiet muffler to be the same as our turboforce hp wise. I can tell you our quiet doesnt make the same hp as the turboforce. Most likely their quiet is similar to ours hp wise. That would be a more accurate statement.

http://www.turbodynamics.ca
 
stevewithOCD said:
Dan, i snapped 2 bolts on mine. I went with grade 8 this time & was waiting to see if Stainless is better for heat. I do know that Stainless isn't as strong as grade 8, so i'm waiting on some reports. Also someone on TY uses High Heat Anti-seize good to 5000 degrees, but i haven't located that yet...
Click to expand...
Of all the 17 sleds we did at the shop only one had bolt break off the housing.
Now we ask customers to warm the sled up a bit before we do them. Seems to help as we have a 98% success now taking out the bolts without breaking them.

Many of these sleds had some miles on them between 2 miles to 1000 miles already.

http://www.turbodynamics.ca
 
stevewithOCD said:
Ok, i actually used the Copper Anti-seize & it melted off. It's good to 1800 degrees. The Nickel stuff is good to 2400 degrees, but their is a claim on this site for stuff good to 5000 degrees. That's the stuff i can't find...
Click to expand...
The Google can't find anything higher than 2400 degrees, so I'm kind of doubting the 5000 degree claim.

I too went with hex head stainless and so far so good, they've been in and out a good 5 times. Now you guys have me thinking I should put some new ones in just to be safe. I thought I read (on TY) that the torque spec for those bolts is really pretty low, I was definitely over torquing them the first few times. Now just snugging them down and none have loosened up.
 
Turbo Dynamics said:
Of all the 17 sleds we did at the shop only one had bolt break off the housing.
Now we ask customers to warm the sled up a bit before we do them. Seems to help as we have a 98% success now taking out the bolts without breaking them.

Many of these sleds had some miles on them between 2 miles to 1000 miles already.

http://www.turbodynamics.ca
Click to expand...
So are you saying to torque in the new bolts onto a warmed turbo? Or to remove them when warm? We did remove them when warm and one snapped, lucky i was able to finger the broken end out easily after muffler was out of the way.

I am beginning to think the stock bolts are better and might have some sort of heat treatment for the hi heat here, and would just rather use the torx and leave that 6th bolt off altogether....

Is the hi temp anti seize hard to find? Any specific brands at Canadian tire or depot you guys can recommend?

Is 18ft lbs good?

Dan
 
Beerman said:
The Google can't find anything higher than 2400 degrees, so I'm kind of doubting the 5000 degree claim.

I too went with hex head stainless and so far so good, they've been in and out a good 5 times. Now you guys have me thinking I should put some new ones in just to be safe. I thought I read (on TY) that the torque spec for those bolts is really pretty low, I was definitely over torquing them the first few times. Now just snugging them down and none have loosened up.
Click to expand...
I dont use anything on the bolts on my own test sleds and probably switched mufflers for testing a solid 15 times in my sw and still running the same stock bolts.

Dont over tighten is number 1 as that will stretch the threads and when the bolt comes out it's over... We also started sending lock washers with our exhaust to act as a spacer and not have thread sticking out on the other side which also helps.

http://www.turbodynamics.ca
 
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