Re Chain Tensioner.

[PigeonLake]

I have the best Yamaha Dealer ever. McGregors in Bobcaygeon. Re the chain Tensioner bolts coming loose. Old school adjustments to re tension not the way to go. Stay with spec. Too much tension results in distortion of the hole thereby loosening the bolt. None the less, for peace of mind they are spot welding the bolt when they upgrade my top gear with the one with holes that lubricates better. With Barn of Parts protective stuff and Rocker Dan's ski solution and Yamaha's indestructible engine I m convinced I am keeping this 8 years like my Apex

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Agree....there are a few items that once fixed, sleds should go the long haul with good maintenance.

I would say these are the big ones in order of priority.

• Tensioner wheel screws tack welded
• Top gear(seasonally check/replaced)
• Brake side axle bearing needs loctite to shaft early on(then needs a puller to remove)
• Add chain lube to TOP of sight glass(change often)
• Roller bushings in primary(checked for play every 300 miles or so)
• Coolant hose protectors(or must clean out ice before each ride) studs help to break up ice.

Im sure there is more but these are higher priority things...

Dan

 

[ApexXTX/Viper]

I have the best Yamaha Dealer ever. McGregors in Bobcaygeon. Re the chain Tensioner bolts coming loose. Old school adjustments to re tension not the way to go. Stay with spec. Too much tension results in distortion of the hole thereby loosening the bolt. None the less, for peace of mind they are spot welding the bolt when they upgrade my top gear with the one with holes that lubricates better. With Barn of Parts protective stuff and Rocker Dan's ski solution and Yamaha's indestructible engine I m convinced I am keeping this 8 years like my Apex

I had Paul tack weld my tensioner about two weeks ago. X2 as the best dealer around. Even dropped it by the house. That's service.

 

[stevewithOCD]

Agree....there are a few items that once fixed, sleds should go the long haul with good maintenance.

I would say these are the big ones in order of priority.

• Tensioner wheel screws tack welded
• Top gear(seasonally check/replaced)
• Brake side axle bearing needs loctite to shaft early on(then needs a puller to remove)
• Add chain lube to TOP of sight glass(change often)
• Roller bushings in primary(checked or play every 300 miles or so)
• Coolant hose protectors(or must clean out ice before each ride) studs help to break up ice.

Im sure there is more but these are higher priority things...

Dan

And LOCTITE!!!!!!!

 

[Crazy Canuk]

Agree....there are a few items that once fixed, sleds should go the long haul with good maintenance.

I would say these are the big ones in order of priority.

• Tensioner wheel screws tack welded
• Top gear(seasonally check/replaced)
• Brake side axle bearing needs loctite to shaft early on(then needs a puller to remove)
• Add chain lube to TOP of sight glass(change often)
• Roller bushings in primary(checked for play every 300 miles or so)
• Coolant hose protectors(or must clean out ice before each ride) studs help to break up ice.

Im sure there is more but these are higher priority things...

Dan

Plan to change the track straight away when i pick up my new Winder this fall (going to be a long summer). Looks like I can check most of these off the list before mile 1.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Plan to change the track straight away when i pick up my new Winder this fall (going to be a long summer). Looks like I can check most of these off the list before mile 1.

True...

I have changed out tracks on brand new sleds many many times. While its always nice to get the track you want with the sled, it also is nice to swap a track day 1 as it gives you the ability to go into the chaincase, gear swap if wanted, tack weld tensioner, loctite the bearing on brake side, seal oil tank in a better manner, and add nickel anti-seize to the muffler bolts(forgot to add to that list).

If a guy did all this when new, chances are for a couple solid high mile seasons without issues.

Dan

 

[Big_Phil]

I have the best Yamaha Dealer ever. McGregors in Bobcaygeon. Re the chain Tensioner bolts coming loose. Old school adjustments to re tension not the way to go. Stay with spec. Too much tension results in distortion of the hole thereby loosening the bolt. None the less, for peace of mind they are spot welding the bolt when they upgrade my top gear with the one with holes that lubricates better. With Barn of Parts protective stuff and Rocker Dan's ski solution and Yamaha's indestructible engine I m convinced I am keeping this 8 years like my Apex

I have to disagree about the tension, I don't think its the cause of the tensioner failing. I run mine tighter than spec, and on my brothers race sled, we run the chain super tight or we have trouble with snapping them. My stock tensioner had 8500kms before I tack welded it for piece of mind. Having the chain too loose will cause more of a shock on the whole chain case. The chain will slap around, and then whenver you pin it, that slack tightens up and slams the tensioner.

Also, it seems the old 2017 gears with no oil holes are holding up better than the ones with oil holes. 11500kms on my stop 21 top gear.

 

[NYTurbo]

I have to disagree about the tension, I don't think its the cause of the tensioner failing. I run mine tighter than spec, and on my brothers race sled, we run the chain super tight or we have trouble with snapping them. My stock tensioner had 8500kms before I tack welded it for piece of mind. Having the chain too loose will cause more of a shock on the whole chain case. The chain will slap around, and then whenver you pin it, that slack tightens up and slams the tensioner.

Also, it seems the old 2017 gears with no oil holes are holding up better than the ones with oil holes. 11500kms on my stop 21 top gear.

I agree , from what I'm seeing the problem is the bushing itself. They are sloppy day one and made of crap material. Quality control on the bushing is a big contributor to these failures.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I have to disagree about the tension, I don't think its the cause of the tensioner failing. I run mine tighter than spec, and on my brothers race sled, we run the chain super tight or we have trouble with snapping them. My stock tensioner had 8500kms before I tack welded it for piece of mind. Having the chain too loose will cause more of a shock on the whole chain case. The chain will slap around, and then whenver you pin it, that slack tightens up and slams the tensioner.

Also, it seems the old 2017 gears with no oil holes are holding up better than the ones with oil holes. 11500kms on my stop 21 top gear.

Also with stock gears and a loose chain, the chain rubs the center post bad adding another issue.

This issue is all about a poor top gear bushing and a poor tensioner design, NOT from tight chains. We all know how tight chains have been run on sled after sled since I was a kid.

Dan

 

[Sledroll]

Also with stock gears and a loose chain, the chain rubs the center post bad adding another issue.

This issue is all about a poor top gear bushing and a poor tensioner design, NOT from tight chains. We all know how tight chains have been run on sled after sled since I was a kid.

Dan

Wouldn't this be a good time for Yamaha Tech to interject , and explain why their instructions on tightening the chain are what they are !!!!!!!!!
AND likewise on the many other posts where their input would be beneficial to all .
I imagine they don't want to get into a pissing match , which I would think could be avoided .
They are obviously smart people , and there are obvious limitations and influences that sometimes inhibit the best in class results for all scenarios , whether it is engine ,frame,shocks , suspension ,calibrations, ................
But overall they do pretty good .

 

[eightpilot]

We will see how indestructible that motor really is after i do a leak down and valve inspection this summer. I pushed that motor hard this season with big boost and a lot of knocking....lol. Its ok tho.... I have a spare 800 mile motor on the shelf

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Wouldn't this be a good time for Yamaha Tech to interject , and explain why their instructions on tightening the chain are what they are !!!!!!!!!
AND likewise on the many other posts where their input would be beneficial to all .
I imagine they don't want to get into a pissing match , which I would think could be avoided .
They are obviously smart people , and there are obvious limitations and influences that sometimes inhibit the best in class results for all scenarios , whether it is engine ,frame,shocks , suspension ,calibrations, ................
But overall they do pretty good .

These are designed by CAT.....Yamaha is just going by the manual I'd assume.

 

[Doowithblue]

There's a yamaha tech? Who is this person you speak of?

 

[Yamajon1]

Aren’t most of us Yamaha tech’s? ...... just saying.