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Removing exhaust

Took my exhaust off tonight. Hit them with some release all a couple hours prior to removal. Was gonna heat them up...but tried one for fun cold and it came out smoothly. Kept going and removed them all without issue. Also checked all 3 turbo bolts while exhaust off. Front 2 easy to get a torque wrench on...barely moved before wrench clicked at 50 ft lbs. The rear one I have no idea how you would get a torque wrench on it. But I snuggled it up slightly with an offset 13mm box end wrench. Also rechecked clutches...very little belt dust. And checked air filter...bone dry. Guess I'm one of the lucky ones :)
 

Shagnos said:
Evo stage 3. Sounds like a sport bike. Have OSP weights and loaded 3-3-2-0 was almost 9600. Now 3-3-3-0 and 9350 or so. Only had some heavy wet loose snow to try it before we lost all of it. Going to head to the UP next week for a proper test.
Click to expand...
Wow you really came to play. Good luck
 
Bumping this thread up....hoping for more feedback now on which bolts are best:

Ok guys, So we had the dealer do the chain case, oil change while in for studs....

After reading this long MUFFLER BOLT REMOVAL, we had the dealer install (10.9) bolts on muffler. They are a nice flange head bolt.

So we run the sled about 6 runs on the radar gun here for base readings/stock now that we have studs in her. BTW grampa window was very slow as suspected at over 3.5mph LESS then the stock LE low window. Went from low 109 up to mid 113.8radar. (poor day, wet ice, water on top, soft)

So I went to remove the stock muffler to test another we have here,and sure enough one of the newly installed bolts snaps off.

I see Allen mentions Stainless Steel, and others mention grade 8(10.9 metric) and wondering if the SS bolts are a better material to take the hi heat? Im assuming it was the high heat that snapped this 10.9 bolt, it broke right at the point on threads where the gasket is.

It seems the heat may make the bolts become brittle, and therefore break....Im thinking of just going back to stock torx bolts and just using 5 and leaving 6th bolt off.

thoughts?
 
Last edited:
I was using one grade less bolt than you
But the bolts continually leave fillings when removing
Yesterday changed back to the factory bolts with copper anti seize and nor locks
 
I would be very careful about using stainless steel bolts. The reason is they are soft and if they snap off you will have a very difficult time drilling them out. I find stainless darn near impossible to drill.
 
Did
ROCKERDAN said:
Bumping this thread up....hoping for more feedback now on which bolts are best:

Ok guys, So we had the dealer do the chain case, oil change while in for studs....

After reading this long MUFFLER BOLT REMOVAL, we had the dealer install (10.9) bolts on muffler. They are a nice flange head bolt.

So we run the sled about 6 runs on the radar gun here for base readings/stock now that we have studs in her. BTW grampa window was very slow as suspected at over 3.5mph LESS then the stock LE low window. Went from low 109 up to mid 113.8radar. (poor day, wet ice, water on top, soft)

So I went to remove the stock muffler to test another we have here,and sure enough one of the newly installed bolts snaps off.

I see Allen mentions Stainless Steel, and others mention grade 8(10.9 metric) and wondering if the SS bolts are a better material to take the hi heat? Im assuming it was the high heat that snapped this 10.9 bolt, it broke right at the point on threads where the gasket is.

It seems the heat may make the bolts become brittle, and therefore break....Im thinking of just going back to stock torx bolts and just using 5 and leaving 6th bolt off.

thoughts?
Click to expand...
Did the dealer use high temperature anti seize on the new bolts? I read that Yamaha recommends it.
 
Stainless and nickel anti seize for mine. I used the ones SJ mentioned/listed back in this post.(got mine at Fastenal) I have not tried to remove mine since.
 
Last edited:
XP123 said:
Did

Did the dealer use high temperature anti seize on the new bolts? I read that Yamaha recommends it.
Click to expand...
Hard to tell, but the odd thing was we only made 6 passes on radar gun after dealer installed the bolts, and when i removed them from muffler they were not very tight at all, Its almost like one was weakened maybe somehow, the others are all good.

I want to just get the strong stock torx back and in there too be honest. Gotta get them from dealer.

Dan
 
ROCKERDAN said:
Hard to tell, but the odd thing was we only made 6 passes on radar gun after dealer installed the bolts, and when i removed them from muffler they were not very tight at all, Its almost like one was weakened maybe somehow, the others are all good.

I want to just get the strong stock torx back and in there too be honest. Gotta get them from dealer.

Dan
Click to expand...
Maybe use the hex heads on the two that you can't get a straight shot at removing them?
 
I had regular anti seize on mine and after 350 miles they came out easy. I put the high temp nickel anti seize on them this time. I'm running the 10.9 bolts on the two hard to get at bolts and no problems so far.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Did a track change out this week. All of the torx head bolts on exhaust did come out. They were very tight but did back out nicely. Made a tool like someone on here did, bought a torx socket and cut the torx and used a box end wrench with it for the 2 tough ones.
Took one torx with me to the dealer and asked if they had bolt substitutes for the 2 tough ones. Was told that these have a special coating on them so not a good idea.

Their trick for removal of those 2, is utilizing a long ball head torx,one size down.

I did not try that but if I did, I would also put a set of vise grips on them!!
 
I just bought some Vibra-Tite Nickel Anti-Seize from ebay. Its high temp and is rated up to 2600 degrees. How hot will this exhaust get? I know cast iron will melt over 2200. I think I will reinstall the factory bolts using this stuff.
 
I think a problem with the 10.9 bolts is that to get a high strength like that, they are specially heat treated. When the exhaust heat cycles them, you mess up that heat treatment and they are made more brittle leading to fracture upon removal. I'm a structural engineer and I know for structural steel bolts AISC does not allow you to galvanize high strength A490 bolts (equivalent to a grade 8 or metric 10.9) reason being that the hot-dip process affects the heat treating negatively and embrittles the bolts. Hot dip galvanizing is done in molten zinc around 840 degrees, our exhausts may get hotter than this? That being said, we are allowed to galvanize A325 bolts (equivalent to a grade 5 or metric 8.8) as the heat treat on these is more heat tolerant so perhaps these lower strength bolts are a better fit, even though using the lower strength option is a little counter intuitive when we have bolts snapping off upon removal.

Best solution may be stock bolts but with the ultra high temp anti-sieze. Or alternatively may be better to use the lower strength 8.8 bolts with the high temp anti-sieze. 10.9 bolts are probably the worst. Stainless bolts are very weak as mentioned earlier so I don't know the benefit of using these because you aren't bolting into a stainless casting. Corrosion and seizing may still happen just due to the dissimilar metals and galvanic corrosion.
 
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