garserio
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- 2014 SR Viper
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2006 AC F120
By now we all know that the 2005 RS Idler Wheels are junk... I finally have mine upgraded with Yamaha's replacement accessory wheels.
See picture below.
Here is something I realized while replacing the inner wheels: Did you ever wonder why only the Proactive inner wheels had three holes while all other current Yamaha bogey wheels are solid, including the outer proactive ones? Well, the answer becomes obvious when you try to replace them with something different... The 3 holes are actually clearance holes so that the center shock's lower mounting bolt can be removed or installed without removing the inner wheels. So, when you replace those inner wheels with something different, you have to remember to bolt up the bottom eye of the center shock BEFORE installing the inner bogey wheel shaft. Also, keep in mind that if you ever have to remove the center shock again, you will also have to remove the center bogey wheel shaft in order to slide the wheels away to clear the bolt.
Just an FYI as you consider your replacement options...
The outer bogeys match the style of the rear axle wheels, but be sure to order the longer bolt with those particular wheels.
Here are the P/N's:
Inner Replacement Bogeys: SMA-8FP38-01-RD (or BL, SL, YL)
Outer Replacement Bogeys: SMA-8EK38-01-RD (or BL, SL, YL)
Longer Bolt (L=85mm) for SMA-8EK38-01: 95817-10085-00
Good luck, Greg
See picture below.
Here is something I realized while replacing the inner wheels: Did you ever wonder why only the Proactive inner wheels had three holes while all other current Yamaha bogey wheels are solid, including the outer proactive ones? Well, the answer becomes obvious when you try to replace them with something different... The 3 holes are actually clearance holes so that the center shock's lower mounting bolt can be removed or installed without removing the inner wheels. So, when you replace those inner wheels with something different, you have to remember to bolt up the bottom eye of the center shock BEFORE installing the inner bogey wheel shaft. Also, keep in mind that if you ever have to remove the center shock again, you will also have to remove the center bogey wheel shaft in order to slide the wheels away to clear the bolt.
Just an FYI as you consider your replacement options...
The outer bogeys match the style of the rear axle wheels, but be sure to order the longer bolt with those particular wheels.
Here are the P/N's:
Inner Replacement Bogeys: SMA-8FP38-01-RD (or BL, SL, YL)
Outer Replacement Bogeys: SMA-8EK38-01-RD (or BL, SL, YL)
Longer Bolt (L=85mm) for SMA-8EK38-01: 95817-10085-00
Good luck, Greg
Attachments
MadMax
TY 4 Stroke Master
How complex of a job is it to change the inner wheels???? MM
garserio
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MadMax said:How complex of a job is it to change the inner wheels???? MM
Unfortunately, it is a big job. You have to relieve the coil spring tension and then remove the Center Shock and Center Wheel Idler Shaft. To remove the Idler Wheel Shaft and clear it's mounting bolts, you have to remove the Outer Wheels. To remove the Outer Wheels, you have to first relieve the tension on the Rear Torsion Springs because they slide on the Outer Wheel Mounting Bracket/Slide.
To be honest, the best way is to remove the skid since there are so many components to remove...
You will be enraged at Yamaha even more than before when you replace these wheels...
The good news is that this an opportunity to inspect your skid for maintenance like slides, bushings, shock rebuilds, etc.
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
Good information. I took a look at my skid and saw what you were talking about. Going to make me think twice about replacing the idlers with something different since it would make shock mount bolt access that much harder.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
One thing to also keep in mind. The outer wheel in the picture above is the 04 and earlier style. It is heavier, has thicker rubber and uses a 6205 bearing which is 15mm wide.
The inner wheel in the picture above is the 05/06 style. It is lighter, narrower, and uses a 6005 bearing which is 12mm wide.
The inner wheels ride between drive cogs in the track so keeping them centered is important. If you decide to install the 04 style wheel (or any wheel with 6205 bearings) you really should machine the wheel mount by 0.060" (1.5 mm) in order to keep the wheel centered. If you don't, it will work, but the wheel will rub the side of the inner drive cogs.
I swapped out all of the idlers on my 05 RX-1 to the 04 style. I believe the 6205 bearing and those wheels are more durable than the 05 or 06 style.
The inner wheel in the picture above is the 05/06 style. It is lighter, narrower, and uses a 6005 bearing which is 12mm wide.
The inner wheels ride between drive cogs in the track so keeping them centered is important. If you decide to install the 04 style wheel (or any wheel with 6205 bearings) you really should machine the wheel mount by 0.060" (1.5 mm) in order to keep the wheel centered. If you don't, it will work, but the wheel will rub the side of the inner drive cogs.
I swapped out all of the idlers on my 05 RX-1 to the 04 style. I believe the 6205 bearing and those wheels are more durable than the 05 or 06 style.
garserio
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ReX said:If you decide to install the 04 style wheel (or any wheel with 6205 bearings) you really should machine the wheel mount by 0.060" (1.5 mm) in order to keep the wheel centered. If you don't, it will work, but the wheel will rub the side of the inner drive cogs.
Rex is right... except you would have to machine 0.060" off the steps of both aluminum collars AND another 0.060" off each end of the Idler Arm Tube to open up enough room & properly center the wheels. Just a clarification...
It was this reason why I chose to go with the '05 6005-bearing accessory wheels in the center and the '04 6205-bearing wheels on the outside.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks for the correction, I forgot the wheel was sandwiched between the tube and collars on the RS. On the 05 RX-1 they are bolted against the wheel mount so only one side per wheel needs machining (and you need a longer bolt).
Glock30
Extreme
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I had to machine my aluminum spacers too. Wheels fit in great after that.
(RS Venture)
(RS Venture)
yamaslob
TY 4 Stroke Guru
what is causing this? low snow conditions? track to tight? or are they just junk wheel's? anyone got any clue?
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
yamaslob said:what is causing this? low snow conditions? track to tight? or are they just junk wheel's? anyone got any clue?
I'll pick your third choice. Not low snow conditions or my hyfax wouldn't look so good still at 1000 miles. Not too tight of track, because if anything, mine's too loose.
I think it's just plain low quality. They're all hard plastic with no rubber to cushion. Things are worse on studded tracks. My idlers have such bad flat spots in them, some parts don't touch the track.
garserio
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Bumping message for QCRider
Bumping up for QCRider...
Bumping up for QCRider...
QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
If the accessory wheels are of a good quality as you said in the other post, then why did you not use them on the outer wheels?
heybuddy
Newbie
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- Nov 8, 2005
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I have the Apex gt and both inside bottom wheels were shot inside of 70 miles and the second set lasted be 10 miles. Do you think changing to the wheels with the 6205 bearings will help?
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
heybuddy said:I have the Apex gt and both inside bottom wheels were shot inside of 70 miles and the second set lasted be 10 miles. Do you think changing to the wheels with the 6205 bearings will help?
What is up with that???
garserio
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QCRider said:If the accessory wheels are of a good quality as you said in the other post, then why did you not use them on the outer wheels?
Both inner and outer wheels are accessory wheels. They offer two styles as shown on my machine. The inner ones have the 6005 bearings and are your only option without maching parts. The outer wheels have 6205 bearings and need a longer bolt (Which Yamaha offers and lists in their catalog). You can use the inner style shown on my sled in both locations if you'd like. I decided to choose the outer wheels to match my rear idler spoke design. The accessory inner wheels (with the 6005 bearing) have a different design, so I though it would look goofy.
Both wheels are made by the same manufacturer and are of the same quality.
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