RTX vs LTX ride

[fourbarrel]

I have been mulling over buying a 'Winder and want a '19 SRX but there's just none for sale in my area yet,so I have found 2 others and they're both 50th anniversary sleds which is my second choice,one is an LTX and the other an RTX.My question is to those that have ridden both chassis back to back and can tell me what differences in the ride and handling are.There's no question these sleds are powerful but I'm looking for the meat and potatoes answers.Is there any appreciable difference in the hookup between the sleds? Does the 129" chassis ride differently? Rougher or smoother?How about handling? Do they differ where one is shorter than the other? I know that chassis setup has a lot to do with everything I asked about but maybe someone rode a couple sleds setup basically the same.

 

[BlueByYou2000]

Well they are not all that different in ride quality. It’s the same old argument that the longer track will bridge bumps better but I’ve never had a complaint about my RTX. The single biggest difference is transfer. This was beat to death here when the winders first came out and there is a significant advantage to the RTX in this department. You will need to stud heavy, and properly stud using studs that actually penetrate like INS Hornets, Woodys Triggers or Stud Boy Lake Racers. Do not skimp on studs/stud quality if acceleration is important to you. Also, I personally feel the RTX is a more fun sled to ride

 

[ClutchMaster]

The 129” skid is great for tight trails with sharp corners, like we have in northern Wisconsin. The longer skids are better for straighter trails, they will tend to push more in the tight corners. They also ride a tad smoother but a well setup 129” will ride better. Most have their suspension set up mediocre, some testing and research goes a long way.

 

[fullshift]

I read this and helped me to know I made the right decision buying a 129
http://www.arcticinsider.com/Article/Interview-Zach-Herfindahl-Discusses-New-2021-ZR6000R-XC

 

[ClutchMaster]

I read this and helped me to know I made the right decision buying a 129
http://www.arcticinsider.com/Article/Interview-Zach-Herfindahl-Discusses-New-2021-ZR6000R-XC

Yes a very good article! I agree with everything said. Consumers have brought this upon themselves, manufacturers build and sell what the consumer is buying. Unfortunately the shorter skids (129”) were not selling well and they nixed them from the lineup.
People don’t know what works on the trail, that’s evident when I see huge numbers of +140” track length hot doggers on the trail. Two up and touring sleds work well in the longer configurations, but not for quick trail riding. This is evident when I get behind a group of “Mountain Sleds” all jacked up with handle bar risers and Moto style helmets trying to navigate the corners. It’s funny, they think they are really tearing it up but in reality they just have no clue. Clueless rich kids that buy a sled because it “looks cool”... wrong tool for the job. Buy a mountain sled for the mountains! Polaris still offers a 121” skid, best handling for wisconsin trails imo.

 

[cannondale27]

I wish they still made 121”. But that’s just me. I will admit that the front end planted feel of a 137” is attractive to many and unless 129 is setup right it will get beat in tight woods or hit a tree. This is stock configuration for both. Been there done that. Setup is key like Clutchmaster said. Setup well a 129 is just so much fun!

 

[snowbeast]

Yes i have to agree with the above mentioned stories about 137 vrs 129,i have had both skids,athough one was a 13 cat Turbo 1100 LXR,but chassie is the same. My cat rode and handled better than my 137 winder,power wise all winder.

 

[number1kyster]

We have both in the garage. My dad's 137 is more planted, but I find it much more boring than my 129. The 137 handles a little better because it does not transfer at all. I'm not sure I've ever ridden a sled that feels more planted than his LTX SE.

 

[SidewinderConvert]

When I was looking at the 4-strokes (I came from Poo 2smoke land) I wanted the 137" after seeing how often my buddy would bury his ZR5000 in 12" of loose snow. I wanted the extra track for those times hopping the ditch (or snowbank) to not bury a 600Ib sled. The 121" tracks are glorious set up correctly on hard pack no denying it. However, once the surface of the trail softens up a little a well set up 121" and a well set up 137" should end up about the same speed with the 121" being better going into the corners but the traction on the 137" making it better coming out of the corners. I have not ridden a 129" sled to have a valid opinion on them yet.

Once again this is all opinion.

 

[fourbarrel]

Well they are not all that different in ride quality. It’s the same old argument that the longer track will bridge bumps better but I’ve never had a complaint about my RTX. The single biggest difference is transfer. This was beat to death here when the winders first came out and there is a significant advantage to the RTX in this department. You will need to stud heavy, and properly stud using studs that actually penetrate like INS Hornets, Woodys Triggers or Stud Boy Lake Racers. Do not skimp on studs/stud quality if acceleration is important to you. Also, I personally feel the RTX is a more fun sled to ride

The RTX I'm looking at has a pre studded track and I highly doubt a sled with this much power is making much use of those little tips sticking out of the lugs,The LTX is studded but only with 2 per bar and I have no idea what they are for brand or model but will be asking the dealer that has it tomorrow.

 

[Sevey]

I only have experience with the 129. Sled handles great and have no complaints. The 137 will give you a little more tunnel deck for storage.

Dont underestimate the pre studded track. Had one on my Nytro and was surprised how much grip it had on trails. For sure - hammering it off the line - it will not hook up like studs will but once underway, at times it had too much grip not letting the back end loosen up coming out of corner. It would in fresh, bushy snow but if the trail was firm - that track definitely had a hold of it.
MS

 

[fourbarrel]

I forgot to mention that the RTX has C & A skis on it too where the LTX has the stock tuners.I have zero experience with Tuner skis but have read precious little positive about them,but I should also say that magazine editors are 95% of my source too.

 

[Sevey]

I forgot to mention that the RTX has C & A skis on it too where the LTX has the stock tuners.I have zero experience with Tuner skis but have read precious little positive about them,but I should also say that magazine editors are 95% of my source too.

Not a fan of the Tuners. They can be ok in some conditions - typically hard trails - but in variable conditions they often will leave you hanging in the corner wondering if you are going to make it. They will also load really bad and flip up. The pro cross hates hid siding - very unpredicatable.

I have the C&A with 6" slim jims. Steering effort is minimal and it covers a wide range of conditions. Its an easy combo on the front end to do long days. Very predictable - never has you guessing what the front end will do.

A single 6" shaper on the C&A will work but steering effort will increase. I have always wondered if you could ever tune the harshness out of the ride - I never got there. But man it had razor like grip. Ski would load really bad in the corner and could flip up, but it just railed corners. Your shoulders felt every corner though
MS

 

[ClutchMaster]

Not a fan of the Tuners. They can be ok in some conditions - typically hard trails - but in variable conditions they often will leave you hanging in the corner wondering if you are going to make it. They will also load really bad and flip up. The pro cross hates hid siding - very unpredicatable.

I have the C&A with 6" slim jims. Steering effort is minimal and it covers a wide range of conditions. Its an easy combo on the front end to do long days. Very predictable - never has you guessing what the front end will do.

A single 6" shaper on the C&A will work but steering effort will increase. I have always wondered if you could ever tune the harshness out of the ride - I never got there. But man it had razor like grip. Ski would load really bad in the corner and could flip up, but it just railed corners. Your shoulders felt every corner though
MS

Something I have found with aggressive skis and big carbides is to MUCH ski pressure makes for hard steering. Yes it goes where you want but is hard to steer.
If you have aggressive skis and studs in back, it’s a balancing act. Try this, crank up the center shock spring ALOT and lower the rear spring all the way down, keep the ride height kinda low, we’re not snowcross racing. Test drive it and see how it feels. Is it pushing or still going where you want? If it’s not pushing start lowering the front ski springs until it
starts to push a little bit, then bring them up until your comfortable with the control. This will allow the rear of the sled to “Loosen up” the amount of center spring preload all depends on how many studs your running, more studs, means more center spring pressure, less in the rear, to get it slightly loose. If you get it right the sled will “pivot” at about where your sitting on the seat. Slightly loose in the rear end is the best handling imo. If conditions get loose just turn up your front ski springs and/or turn up the rear skid spring, this will help plant the rear boggies and tighten up the rear end while helping prevent pushing. This also gives the least amount of steering force needed to negotiate turns. Sometimes when the trails are really cold and packed it’s impossible to get the rear end loose with studs, that’s gonna happen.
With lots of studs and a heavy rider you will need a stiffer center spring imo.

 

[Big_Phil]

I have a 129 winder, my brother a 137. The ride is pretty similar. The 129 does everything else better. Handles better, hooks up better due to better weight transfer, higher top speed, etc.