rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
kinger - yeah it's a lerning process as well as an install job. What changes that needs to be done to the RX to make an Apex header fit will be differnet from one header design to another.
I will certainly have to reinforce the crossbar, I was thinking of welding on a similar boxed alu tube in front of the existing one if space allows. Nevertheless, the crossbar have to be reinforced.
Need for Speed 2 - I usually have fun when wrenching
I only have to remove balljoints in the steering and I'm half way done, from that point on assembly has started and that is the greatest fun with any project, you start to see the end product materialize in front of you. Next week my friend Odd Steffen (also building a Hybrid PL - MCX turbo system) is off work, he's coming over to wrench on his Attak. Bringing beer is mandatory
I will certainly have to reinforce the crossbar, I was thinking of welding on a similar boxed alu tube in front of the existing one if space allows. Nevertheless, the crossbar have to be reinforced.
Need for Speed 2 - I usually have fun when wrenching
I only have to remove balljoints in the steering and I'm half way done, from that point on assembly has started and that is the greatest fun with any project, you start to see the end product materialize in front of you. Next week my friend Odd Steffen (also building a Hybrid PL - MCX turbo system) is off work, he's coming over to wrench on his Attak. Bringing beer is mandatory 
Anybody say BEER?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
BEER - bottoms up buddy
Lucky you, I'm not allowed until friday, just kidding, I'm out of beer
.LOL....I'm not headed you way tomorrow unfortunatly (sp?) We're going to ride our ATV's from Alta instead.
But, as soon as I get some time of, I'm coming over to learn how to wrench
But, as soon as I get some time of, I'm coming over to learn how to wrench
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE August 6. - Servicing and maintaining the steering.
Today I started by removing the tie rods, both sides. My plan is to replace all ball joints in the steering except the two at the idler arm that is not replaceable without replacing the whole arm, they are not worn at all and do not need replacement. Parts needed were ordered today.
Here's the ball joints that needs replacement.
Both tie rod ends.
Both at the idler arm.
Both on the tie rod up at the steering column.
I started by disconnecting the tie rods from the inner ball joints
Then I removed the tie rod ends or ball joints.
OBS! The threads on the outer end where the outer ball joints connects goes in the reverse direction.
To be able to take out the worn ball joints I had to remove the idler arm between the two pivot arms down in the bottom of the engine compartment.
I also removed the two pivot arms holding the idler arm for cleaning and repacking with new grease, the pivot arms have needle bearings inside that needs to be lubed well.
I went on by taking off the steering column that lyes horizontal with the delta box frame.
To remove the rear bearing cup I had to take off the reverse lever from the delta box frame.
The plastic bearing were not worn, it only needed cleaning and new grease, it's good as new.
I also removed the front plastic bearing for cleaning and re-greasing. This bearing was worn very little, I decided not to replace it at this time.
When done with cleaning and re-greasing of the steering column bearings I re-installed the parts onto the deltabox frame.
Rear.
Front.
Installed the reverse lever onto the deltabox frame.
Added new grease to the reverse lever.
The pivot arms installed.
That was all for today. I took Need for Speed's advice, I stopped working while it's still fun. There wasn't much more I could have done with the steering. I need to get the ball joints I ordered today, and I need to get hold of a ball joint puller to be able to replace them. That is a tool I don't have, never needed one until today, gotta order one sometime. Great to have automotive and aviation mechanics as friends, one of them will most likely come over with the tool tomorrow and help me out
To be continued.....
Got the tie rod end ball joints and bulkhead bushings. Rest of the balljoints are still on order, not arrived yet.
Installed the tie rod end ball joints.
Cleaned up the idler arm.
Ready to install the A-arms.
A-arm install on HOLD until I get all parts for the steering. Went forward with the R&D on my Hybrid turbo system project.
To be continued....
Today I started by removing the tie rods, both sides. My plan is to replace all ball joints in the steering except the two at the idler arm that is not replaceable without replacing the whole arm, they are not worn at all and do not need replacement. Parts needed were ordered today.
Here's the ball joints that needs replacement.
Both tie rod ends.
Both at the idler arm.
Both on the tie rod up at the steering column.
I started by disconnecting the tie rods from the inner ball joints
Then I removed the tie rod ends or ball joints.
OBS! The threads on the outer end where the outer ball joints connects goes in the reverse direction.
To be able to take out the worn ball joints I had to remove the idler arm between the two pivot arms down in the bottom of the engine compartment.
I also removed the two pivot arms holding the idler arm for cleaning and repacking with new grease, the pivot arms have needle bearings inside that needs to be lubed well.
I went on by taking off the steering column that lyes horizontal with the delta box frame.
To remove the rear bearing cup I had to take off the reverse lever from the delta box frame.
The plastic bearing were not worn, it only needed cleaning and new grease, it's good as new.
I also removed the front plastic bearing for cleaning and re-greasing. This bearing was worn very little, I decided not to replace it at this time.
When done with cleaning and re-greasing of the steering column bearings I re-installed the parts onto the deltabox frame.
Rear.
Front.
Installed the reverse lever onto the deltabox frame.
Added new grease to the reverse lever.
The pivot arms installed.
That was all for today. I took Need for Speed's advice, I stopped working while it's still fun. There wasn't much more I could have done with the steering. I need to get the ball joints I ordered today, and I need to get hold of a ball joint puller to be able to replace them. That is a tool I don't have, never needed one until today, gotta order one sometime. Great to have automotive and aviation mechanics as friends, one of them will most likely come over with the tool tomorrow and help me out
To be continued.....
Got the tie rod end ball joints and bulkhead bushings. Rest of the balljoints are still on order, not arrived yet.
Installed the tie rod end ball joints.
Cleaned up the idler arm.
Ready to install the A-arms.
A-arm install on HOLD until I get all parts for the steering. Went forward with the R&D on my Hybrid turbo system project.
To be continued....
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
obr said:LOL....I'm not headed you way tomorrow unfortunatly (sp?) We're going to ride our ATV's from Alta instead.
But, as soon as I get some time of, I'm coming over to learn how to wrench
OK, we'll team up another day. Hahaha don't think I can teach you any more about wrenching than you already know, but it would sure be nice talking about wrenching on our sleds and mods we are about to do.
BTW - I got some very nice feedback today from my local Yamaha dealer on my ZX-2 article in the ScooterNorge sled magazine. He thought it was very well put together
Such feedback warms my heart and is a great inspiration to take on another project writeup. Thank you Ole for giving me the opportunity to do the article, it's your credit as much as mine Any time buddy. We have the opening to do another whenever we are ready. I'm doing my triple-REV now, another Turbo RX-1, and I have a couple of more waiting.
Your article was the first I ever received that I didn't change one thing in. I know my editor made some small adjustments, but he still thought it was GREAT and asked for more. So...whenever we're ready. Just keep taking those good pics and we'll write up some stuff together.
Your article was the first I ever received that I didn't change one thing in. I know my editor made some small adjustments, but he still thought it was GREAT and asked for more. So...whenever we're ready. Just keep taking those good pics and we'll write up some stuff together.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE August 11. - R&D work - fitting a Yamaha Apex seat on top of a REV gas tank.
Project Hybrid Turbo System has started. My friend came over to join the project as he is also going hybrid on his MCX powered Attak. Turbo systems will be different between our sleds, but both are going front mount, and both are going with a REV tank and stock Apex seats. We'll see how it turns out
To get a better fit for the REV gas tank I decided to cut out the hump in the middle of the tunnel. After some measuring I marked up where to make the cut.
I also decided on removing the rear die cast tunnel bulkhead, it's not needed anymore and had to go.
I removed the install brackets for the exhaust plastic covers which are not needed anymore because of no rear exhaust with my new system. I'm going to dump the exhaust into the tunnel or somewhere else....we'll see.
The rear bulkhead frame part gone.
With the rear bulkhead out of the way it was time to start cutting the tunnel open. I used a medium sized die grinder with a 110 millimeter alu cutting blade.
Cutting done.
First attempt on fitting the REV tank to the frame. Installed plastics to get an idea on what to do next. Original ide was to have the filler neck come up thru the original hole in the tank covling. That idea was abandoned shortly after.
We figured that we would get a much better fit by moving the tank forward until the filler neck was close to the deltabox frame and with the filler neck exiting the steering column hole in the tank covling. Remember I'm going with a Wildchild steering relocation kit, so the original steering hole is not needed anymore.
With this new idea in mind we cut some more out in the middle of the tunnel to make room to move to tank forward. The hole in the middle of the tunnel and the hole where the rear tunnel bulkhead used to be will be covered by an aluminum plate later on.
Now the tank fit much better onto the tunnel. The end of the tank ends where the tunnel tilts upward making the tank lye flush with the tunnel all the way front to rear
Next plan was to adapt a Yamaha seat onto the REV gas tank. I had an old RX-1 seat lying around. We removed seat cover and foam before starting the work of fitting the seat bottom plastic to the REV tank. Our plan is to cut away as much plastic as needed to make the Yamaha seat bottom fit onto the REV tank. Then we will add new plastic to fit over the REV tank. The Yamaha plastic and the new plastic will be joined together, foam fitted and installed on top of the joined plastics, and finally the seat cover will be installed. At this time we have no idea of the outcome, we will just have to try and see what we can come up with. We have been thinking of adapting a REV seat bottom plastic onto the yamaha plastic.... we'll see what we end up with
First attempt, the seat does absolutely NOT fit, not even close hahaha.
We have to cut that's for sure. Took out my carpenter wood saw and started cutting.
First cutting made, better start out by cutting small pieces not to wrech the seat bottom.... The seat bottom adaptation in progress. Can't really say that it fit .... not yet ....
Much more cutting is needed. The wood saw was not adequate, out came the die grinder, now we were making some headway, cutting away plastic was suddenly a breeze. We're getting closer.
The REV tank has a few bumps and corners here and there. We adapted the plastic on by cutting holes in the plastic at the bumps and corners to make for a better fit.
The last pic before we called it a day.
We're pretty close on a near perfect fit between the REV tank, the Yamaha seat bottom plastic, the side panel plastics and the tank covling. The tank covling have to be cut some in the rear to make it slide down into place on top of the filler neck. The pices I have to cut out is just overhead where the REV tank gauge is supposed to be so I may just install an old school REV tank gauge, we'll see
.
Project Hybrid Turbo System has started. My friend came over to join the project as he is also going hybrid on his MCX powered Attak. Turbo systems will be different between our sleds, but both are going front mount, and both are going with a REV tank and stock Apex seats. We'll see how it turns out
To get a better fit for the REV gas tank I decided to cut out the hump in the middle of the tunnel. After some measuring I marked up where to make the cut.
I also decided on removing the rear die cast tunnel bulkhead, it's not needed anymore and had to go.
I removed the install brackets for the exhaust plastic covers which are not needed anymore because of no rear exhaust with my new system. I'm going to dump the exhaust into the tunnel or somewhere else....we'll see.
The rear bulkhead frame part gone.
With the rear bulkhead out of the way it was time to start cutting the tunnel open. I used a medium sized die grinder with a 110 millimeter alu cutting blade.
Cutting done.
First attempt on fitting the REV tank to the frame. Installed plastics to get an idea on what to do next. Original ide was to have the filler neck come up thru the original hole in the tank covling. That idea was abandoned shortly after.
We figured that we would get a much better fit by moving the tank forward until the filler neck was close to the deltabox frame and with the filler neck exiting the steering column hole in the tank covling. Remember I'm going with a Wildchild steering relocation kit, so the original steering hole is not needed anymore.
With this new idea in mind we cut some more out in the middle of the tunnel to make room to move to tank forward. The hole in the middle of the tunnel and the hole where the rear tunnel bulkhead used to be will be covered by an aluminum plate later on.
Now the tank fit much better onto the tunnel. The end of the tank ends where the tunnel tilts upward making the tank lye flush with the tunnel all the way front to rear
Next plan was to adapt a Yamaha seat onto the REV gas tank. I had an old RX-1 seat lying around. We removed seat cover and foam before starting the work of fitting the seat bottom plastic to the REV tank. Our plan is to cut away as much plastic as needed to make the Yamaha seat bottom fit onto the REV tank. Then we will add new plastic to fit over the REV tank. The Yamaha plastic and the new plastic will be joined together, foam fitted and installed on top of the joined plastics, and finally the seat cover will be installed. At this time we have no idea of the outcome, we will just have to try and see what we can come up with. We have been thinking of adapting a REV seat bottom plastic onto the yamaha plastic.... we'll see what we end up with
First attempt, the seat does absolutely NOT fit, not even close hahaha.
We have to cut that's for sure. Took out my carpenter wood saw and started cutting.
First cutting made, better start out by cutting small pieces not to wrech the seat bottom.... The seat bottom adaptation in progress. Can't really say that it fit .... not yet ....
Much more cutting is needed. The wood saw was not adequate, out came the die grinder, now we were making some headway, cutting away plastic was suddenly a breeze. We're getting closer.
The REV tank has a few bumps and corners here and there. We adapted the plastic on by cutting holes in the plastic at the bumps and corners to make for a better fit.
The last pic before we called it a day.
We're pretty close on a near perfect fit between the REV tank, the Yamaha seat bottom plastic, the side panel plastics and the tank covling. The tank covling have to be cut some in the rear to make it slide down into place on top of the filler neck. The pices I have to cut out is just overhead where the REV tank gauge is supposed to be so I may just install an old school REV tank gauge, we'll see
.Wow...progress
What are you going to do to reinforce the tunnell? You cut out alot, do you think it's enough just to put a reinforcement plate over there? Reason I ask is that Ive got to do the same as you did on mine, but wasnt't sure I wanted to cut it all out, or just make some sort of new tunnell extention that starts tight over the rear diecast? I don't know if it will stand up to the abuse if I cut it all out, and it would be alot easier if I ever was to build it back to stock....But I'm sure you got some sort of idea to convince me...
Oh, and if you decide not to go Apex seat, a Boss rev seat would be grwat on that sled. I'm ordering up some Nytro REV seats as soon as they decide if they are building them or not, so I could just inlude an order for you there..LOL...
Man that sled of yours tunred into a great project. I'm SO glad you decided not to sell it now...
What are you going to do to reinforce the tunnell? You cut out alot, do you think it's enough just to put a reinforcement plate over there? Reason I ask is that Ive got to do the same as you did on mine, but wasnt't sure I wanted to cut it all out, or just make some sort of new tunnell extention that starts tight over the rear diecast? I don't know if it will stand up to the abuse if I cut it all out, and it would be alot easier if I ever was to build it back to stock....But I'm sure you got some sort of idea to convince me...
Oh, and if you decide not to go Apex seat, a Boss rev seat would be grwat on that sled. I'm ordering up some Nytro REV seats as soon as they decide if they are building them or not, so I could just inlude an order for you there..LOL...
Man that sled of yours tunred into a great project. I'm SO glad you decided not to sell it now...
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
A new aluminium plate has to be made to replace the piece I cut out. I have a few options on how to adapt it to the frame. The best soulution would be to replace the whole plate I just cut out, it's the most work but would be the right thing to do. It would require a lot of rivets to be removed to take out the reminding piece of the plate, make a new plate using what I take out as a template, MAN I just gave myself a great idea on what to do so I'm going for what I just said..... on the other hand I can cut a smaller plate to fit on top of the tunnel frame, or I could fit it underneat the tunnel, these to options would need the least amount of rivets removed but it would not be as strong and professional looking as the first option I just found myself in a lot more work than I initially though it would be, but it's going to be the right thing to do.
I just found myself in a lot more work than I initially though it would be, but it's going to be the right thing to do.I think I see where you're at. If you did it in the first place, you wouldn't have to cut out the hump, right? You're going to remove the whole 'center' piece all the way from the front to the back, right?
That wasn't a dumb idea...I'm almost at the point where I'm looking for other tunell options, but I think I'll need to wait a year and add boost and new tunell at the same time...Your plan should work for this season, and if you do it that way, it should be able to takke the stress too.... I'm coming over to take a look asap. Next weekend might be the only weekend that works for me. I'll let you know bud.
That wasn't a dumb idea...I'm almost at the point where I'm looking for other tunell options, but I think I'll need to wait a year and add boost and new tunell at the same time...Your plan should work for this season, and if you do it that way, it should be able to takke the stress too.... I'm coming over to take a look asap. Next weekend might be the only weekend that works for me. I'll let you know bud.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Correct - that's what I'm saying
Reason to take out the center piece is to make room for the tank to sit flat on top of the frame like it does on the REV.
When done my tunnel frame will be as strong or even stronger than it was. The center aluminum plate is rather soft, it bends easily if you're not careful LOL.
The piece that will replace it will be of a harder type of aluminum plating which I will have my friend the aviation mechanic bend to the perfect shape using plate bending hardware and machinery. He have access to the hardware and knows how to use it
I'm NOT conserned with the rigidity and the structural integrity of the finished product
Reason to take out the center piece is to make room for the tank to sit flat on top of the frame like it does on the REV.
When done my tunnel frame will be as strong or even stronger than it was. The center aluminum plate is rather soft, it bends easily if you're not careful LOL.
The piece that will replace it will be of a harder type of aluminum plating which I will have my friend the aviation mechanic bend to the perfect shape using plate bending hardware and machinery. He have access to the hardware and knows how to use it
I'm NOT conserned with the rigidity and the structural integrity of the finished product
you should have him make two of those
Looking very good rxrider! Just make the new top plate in 7000 grade alu, and it will be stronger than it was original. I am pretty sure OEM plate is 5000 series aluminium.
Have you got the Gt2860rs from powderlites yet? I am very interested in how the wastgate is ported. Are you keeping the MCX oil return pump?
Have you got the Gt2860rs from powderlites yet? I am very interested in how the wastgate is ported. Are you keeping the MCX oil return pump?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
obr said:you should have him make two of those
My friend came by to visit this afternoon, after talking with him on my idea he convinced me that removing the center piece all toghether was not necessary. He also said that fitting a profiled plate was a lot more work than I thought it would be as it has to be pressed in between existing profiles both in the front and in the rear, he said that an aluminum plate can jam pretty bad and get stuck if I try to force into place.
My idea was ditched
hahaha, back to square one. The initial idea of just adding a stiffer aluminum plate on top of the piece I cut open was the way to go. He convinced me that installing a new piece flush with the frame profile on both sides and on top of the piece I cut away would provide enough more than enough strength to the frame. I will also go with aircraft style double riveting of the plate to the frame, It should good to go 
