rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
TT said:Looking very good rxrider! Just make the new top plate in 7000 grade alu, and it will be stronger than it was original. I am pretty sure OEM plate is 5000 series aluminium.
Have you got the Gt2860rs from powderlites yet? I am very interested in how the wastgate is ported. Are you keeping the MCX oil return pump?
No, not yet. Orders are placed but PL have not returned me an estimated shipping date yet, guess they are swamped in work. I'll post pics of the turbo when it arrives. Yes I intend to keep the return oil pump if I can make it work with the Garrett.
obr
Lifetime Member
well, decide what to do already. LMAO... You need to finish that #*$&@ up before I start cutting on mine. I'm thinking of doing what TT will do and add an Apex tunell, but that won't solve my problems....we'll see...
I'll bring the 28RS when I come over, and you can snap as many pics as you want. I just ordered up some stuff for us yesterday too....
I'll bring the 28RS when I come over, and you can snap as many pics as you want. I just ordered up some stuff for us yesterday too....
Need for Speed 2
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Looks very nice . Are you kooking for work in the fab industry give me a call. HaHa . Keep up the good work Im impressed
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Hahaha - Thanks Kevin, I might as well buy plastic welding equipment right away cause it will be needed soon. I knew the tank, side panels, seat and tank covling would be some work. I were wrong, it's a LOT of work, but I'm willing to give it a try before buying a REV seat and rear plastics
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE August 14. - Painting front end parts. Draining oil and changing oil filter. Installing ball joints and steering components. Installing Wildchild steering relocation kit.
Last time out I painted the steering knuckles and outside arms that connect to the ball joints on the tie rod ends.
To make it easier to install steering components in front of the motor I decided to drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Ooooooops the small bucket I placed underneat the oil tank was a bit too small I had to find another one in a hurry
Removing the oil filter with a chain type oil filter puller.
New oil filter ready to be installed.
With the oil filter out of the way installing steering parts was a breeze. Finally I was able to remove the RH side pivot arm bolt to lube the needle bearing.
When the pivot arm was lubed, bolt tightened and secured by a ring clip, it was time to install the idler arm.
With the idler arm installed I continued by installing the ball joints to the tie rod ends. I lubed the ball joints by adding moly grease to them. Then I installed the inner ball joint on the tie rods to the idler arm.
Tie rods installed.
Time to install a new oil filter. I use the Apex filter because it's not as tall as the RX-1 filter. Because of the oil kit to lube the turbo, the oil filter moves out 1/2" or 12-13 millimeter, the stock filter would simply not fit anymore, it would have hit the steering components.
I started to fit the Wildchild kit to my sled, some modifications had to be done prior to the install. I drilled out the bolt holes for the steering column in the steering gate, the holes have to be almost horizontal or level for the bolts to go thru. The Wildchild steering column are standing almost vertical, this requires the bolts to be installed at an angle to the steering gate. The stopper plate for the old steering column had to be removed for the new stopper to be installed in the same spot on the oppsite side of the steering gate. A thicker washer plate had to be installed at the lower mounting point to move the steering column away from the steering gate at the bottom. I did not want to cut in the steering gate so I took the thick washer plate from the old steering post and used it as a spacer.
First install attempt, to check if I still was able to install the turbo header. No problem, the header could be installed with the Wildchild in place.
The steering column was touching the steering gate.
A spacer had to be installed.
With the spacer installed I got good clearance between the steering post and the steering gate.
Install done.
MAN this is so rider forward, I love it, can't wait to ride, yoooohooo
After the mockup I removed the Wildchild and installed the stopper plate. I placed the stock stopper plate in its original position and installed the Wildchild stopper plate on the front side of the steering gate and riveted them together using steel/steel rivets.
Last time out I painted the steering knuckles and outside arms that connect to the ball joints on the tie rod ends.
To make it easier to install steering components in front of the motor I decided to drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Ooooooops the small bucket I placed underneat the oil tank was a bit too small I had to find another one in a hurry
Removing the oil filter with a chain type oil filter puller.
New oil filter ready to be installed.
With the oil filter out of the way installing steering parts was a breeze. Finally I was able to remove the RH side pivot arm bolt to lube the needle bearing.
When the pivot arm was lubed, bolt tightened and secured by a ring clip, it was time to install the idler arm.
With the idler arm installed I continued by installing the ball joints to the tie rod ends. I lubed the ball joints by adding moly grease to them. Then I installed the inner ball joint on the tie rods to the idler arm.
Tie rods installed.
Time to install a new oil filter. I use the Apex filter because it's not as tall as the RX-1 filter. Because of the oil kit to lube the turbo, the oil filter moves out 1/2" or 12-13 millimeter, the stock filter would simply not fit anymore, it would have hit the steering components.
I started to fit the Wildchild kit to my sled, some modifications had to be done prior to the install. I drilled out the bolt holes for the steering column in the steering gate, the holes have to be almost horizontal or level for the bolts to go thru. The Wildchild steering column are standing almost vertical, this requires the bolts to be installed at an angle to the steering gate. The stopper plate for the old steering column had to be removed for the new stopper to be installed in the same spot on the oppsite side of the steering gate. A thicker washer plate had to be installed at the lower mounting point to move the steering column away from the steering gate at the bottom. I did not want to cut in the steering gate so I took the thick washer plate from the old steering post and used it as a spacer.
First install attempt, to check if I still was able to install the turbo header. No problem, the header could be installed with the Wildchild in place.
The steering column was touching the steering gate.
A spacer had to be installed.
With the spacer installed I got good clearance between the steering post and the steering gate.
Install done.
MAN this is so rider forward, I love it, can't wait to ride, yoooohooo
After the mockup I removed the Wildchild and installed the stopper plate. I placed the stock stopper plate in its original position and installed the Wildchild stopper plate on the front side of the steering gate and riveted them together using steel/steel rivets.
Did you meassure that stop plate as promissed? I need to install one - have the old kit.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
TT said:Did you meassure that stop plate as promissed? I need to install one - have the old kit.
Sorry buddy, my forgotten. The plate is 3 millimeter thick. From the marks in the stopper plate it's the old thin one. The marks on it indicates that the steering post has gone past the stopper quite often. To remedy this problem I installed the old stopper in it's original position to help reinforce the steering gate so that it would not give way letting the steering post go past the stopper plate.
obr
Lifetime Member
soooo? Hows it going?
I just cleaned up in my garafge a bit, found some parts I need to get rid of...
Tell your friend I'll let the ZX-2 go for 10 000 NOK if he still wants it....
I just cleaned up in my garafge a bit, found some parts I need to get rid of...
Tell your friend I'll let the ZX-2 go for 10 000 NOK if he still wants it....
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Very well..... so well I haven't got the time to write the updates. I'll call him right away, and if he doesn't take it at that price.....nevermind!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE August 15t. - Installing A-arms and steering components.
Before installing A-arms I changed out a few bushings in the Spindles and in the bulk head. A-arm bushings were hardly worn, bought them used mind you, so I installed them as is. The A-arms came with bolts and mounting hardware so I had all i needed to replace the crashed and bent parts on the RH side.
I also got the last few ball joints I ordered, installed all of them. The rod connecting to the steering post have not been installed yet. Will wait until I have the turbo header, heat shields and Wildchild installed before installing it.
Last thing remaining is connecting the outside arms to the ski assy column (king bolt) and then connect the tie rods to the outside arms. Finally I have to align the skis and handlebars.
Before installing A-arms I changed out a few bushings in the Spindles and in the bulk head. A-arm bushings were hardly worn, bought them used mind you, so I installed them as is. The A-arms came with bolts and mounting hardware so I had all i needed to replace the crashed and bent parts on the RH side.
I also got the last few ball joints I ordered, installed all of them. The rod connecting to the steering post have not been installed yet. Will wait until I have the turbo header, heat shields and Wildchild installed before installing it.
Last thing remaining is connecting the outside arms to the ski assy column (king bolt) and then connect the tie rods to the outside arms. Finally I have to align the skis and handlebars.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE August 16. - Fitting Yamaha seat bottom, REV gas tank, Side panels and Tank covling.
With the seat bottom nicely fitted to the REV gas tank, side panel plastics, and rear exhaust covlings,
it was time to start fitting the tank covling to the REV gas tank.
Cutting is done.
Time to start masking the hole for the fiberglass work.
My friend Mikkel came by and made a template, all I have to do is adding fiberglass and polyester on top of it to make a new piece to go on top of the tank filler neck
Last I did was fitting the side panel plastics to the REV gas tank and tank covling. Some cutting had to be done to make for a 100% perfect fit. I'm very happy with how the REV gas tank and everything around it fits together.
With the seat bottom nicely fitted to the REV gas tank, side panel plastics, and rear exhaust covlings,
it was time to start fitting the tank covling to the REV gas tank.
Cutting is done.
Time to start masking the hole for the fiberglass work.
My friend Mikkel came by and made a template, all I have to do is adding fiberglass and polyester on top of it to make a new piece to go on top of the tank filler neck
Last I did was fitting the side panel plastics to the REV gas tank and tank covling. Some cutting had to be done to make for a 100% perfect fit. I'm very happy with how the REV gas tank and everything around it fits together.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE August 18. - Fitting the turbo header, a mockup (testing) install.
On the first install the turbo header was touching the jackshaft, to remedy this situation I had to punch the header slightly to bend in the tubes a little to make them clear the shaft. The turbo header were originally designed to fit an Apex, some adjustments were expected to make it fit in the RX-1.
I installed the header with the exhaust gasket in place and all 8th bolts installed. Notice the rags in the exhaust outlets
The header in place 100%. Clearance to the jackshaft are no longer a problem
Great fit up at the deltabox crossbar as well.
When I removed the header I found this.... grrrrr
I had left the rags in the exhaust outlets
Glad I were to remove all parts again.... guess it would run like crap if I could ever get it started with the rags in there. BTW - I have a history of forgetting rags in the charge tube hahahahahaha
What I need now is a turbo and some other parts from Powder Lites, if they ever get the early orders turbo kits out the door. I guess they're swamped with work as we speak. When I get the parts it's going to be cristmas eve early in the Turbo Garage.
On the first install the turbo header was touching the jackshaft, to remedy this situation I had to punch the header slightly to bend in the tubes a little to make them clear the shaft. The turbo header were originally designed to fit an Apex, some adjustments were expected to make it fit in the RX-1.
I installed the header with the exhaust gasket in place and all 8th bolts installed. Notice the rags in the exhaust outlets
The header in place 100%. Clearance to the jackshaft are no longer a problem
Great fit up at the deltabox crossbar as well.
When I removed the header I found this.... grrrrr
I had left the rags in the exhaust outlets
Glad I were to remove all parts again.... guess it would run like crap if I could ever get it started with the rags in there. BTW - I have a history of forgetting rags in the charge tube hahahahahaha
What I need now is a turbo and some other parts from Powder Lites, if they ever get the early orders turbo kits out the door. I guess they're swamped with work as we speak. When I get the parts it's going to be cristmas eve early in the Turbo Garage.
Very nice rxrider
were did you buy the rev tank?
And was it hard to instal the tank?
were did you buy the rev tank?
And was it hard to instal the tank?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
I bought the tank from member Need for Speed 2 in Canada.
No, it's not hard at all, but it will take some time fitting all parts together.
No, it's not hard at all, but it will take some time fitting all parts together.
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