rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
We'll have to line them up on the lake next winter, we'll invite a few MCX friends as well to see how your PL Nytro and my PL/NFS2 RX-1 hybrid performs against the competition (MCX)
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
kinger said:You sir have a modding problem, and I want to thank you because you make me actually look sane!!
Nice job, looking forward to watching the mods get installed, I can't imagine what a rocket that sled must be!
HAHAHA glad to be at your service buddy
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE July 7. - Painting of A-arms is done. Teardown has started.
I have finished the clear transparent painting of the A-arms. Steering knuckles are disassembled, ready for the paint job, and the hood is off as well.
I will finish off the front end before tearing it down any further. IC has to come off to take out the old A-arms.
The A-arms and Wildchild steering relocation kit are ready for install.
Steering knuckles and skis removed.
Hood removed.
That's all for now, more to come later on. Will start painting the steering knuckles when I get the new one I have on order.
I have finished the clear transparent painting of the A-arms. Steering knuckles are disassembled, ready for the paint job, and the hood is off as well.
I will finish off the front end before tearing it down any further. IC has to come off to take out the old A-arms.
The A-arms and Wildchild steering relocation kit are ready for install.
Steering knuckles and skis removed.
Hood removed.
That's all for now, more to come later on. Will start painting the steering knuckles when I get the new one I have on order.
kinger
VIP Member
Those A arm bolts are fun aren't they! I enjoyed swapping my front end when the engine was out, thank god i like it because its staying put now!
For me its the battery cage that gets in the way, and I have oil and coolant hose in the way to remove that so I had to work around that thing when I had to do a repair mid season, much nicer when the engine was out!
For me its the battery cage that gets in the way, and I have oil and coolant hose in the way to remove that so I had to work around that thing when I had to do a repair mid season, much nicer when the engine was out!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
With the battery down in the bottom of the bulkhead I only have to remove the IC to get to the 4 nuts inside the engine compartment.
The nylatron bushings are no better than the stock ones when it comes to wear, the nylatrons are shot. It seems the upper A-arm bushings have worn completely in one season of riding, the lower ones are actually in pretty good shape.
The bushings in the new A-arms looks pretty darn good so I'm not going to change them out, I'll wear them out then replace them when time comes. I will take a close look at the bulkhead bushings and change them out if there is any slop in them.
The nylatron bushings are no better than the stock ones when it comes to wear, the nylatrons are shot. It seems the upper A-arm bushings have worn completely in one season of riding, the lower ones are actually in pretty good shape.
The bushings in the new A-arms looks pretty darn good so I'm not going to change them out, I'll wear them out then replace them when time comes. I will take a close look at the bulkhead bushings and change them out if there is any slop in them.
kinger
VIP Member
Great I replaced all with nylatron. Except the bulkhead bushings are stock because that is all they had available. I'll check them in my pre-season check. How many miles did you ride last year? I put on 1800 miles which is my highest ever.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
I rode 3630 kms or 2256 miles on the turbo sled last season.
The nylatron bushings were tighter than the stock ones when new. Sadly the nylatron bushings didn't last any longer than the stock bushings did. At least not in my sled with the abuse I put it thru during a season.
Next time around when I have to change out all bushings up front I will order the oilite bushings from Ulmer Racing.
The nylatron bushings were tighter than the stock ones when new. Sadly the nylatron bushings didn't last any longer than the stock bushings did. At least not in my sled with the abuse I put it thru during a season.
Next time around when I have to change out all bushings up front I will order the oilite bushings from Ulmer Racing.
Nice article you wrote in Scooternorge (Norwegian snowmobile magazine) about the ZX2 skid frame!
I see you have the wilchild-kit on the workbench. How thick (mm) is the upgraded stop plate for the wildchild-kit?
I see you have the wilchild-kit on the workbench. How thick (mm) is the upgraded stop plate for the wildchild-kit?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Thanks, I may have to buy the magazine to read it LOL
I don't know if I have the upgraded stopper plate or not, bought the kit used. I can measure it when home. If I have the old plate, do you think I should make a new thicker one?
I don't know if I have the upgraded stopper plate or not, bought the kit used. I can measure it when home. If I have the old plate, do you think I should make a new thicker one?
You have the new kit - you have nothing to worry about. The old kit came with out the stop plate - so I have to worry - LOL. I have used a tether as back up incase the steeering colum with turn too far.
Making a stop plate is on my "to do list" this summer - so if you could meassure the thickness and shoot me a pm I would really appriciate it.
Thanks!
Making a stop plate is on my "to do list" this summer - so if you could meassure the thickness and shoot me a pm I would really appriciate it.
Thanks!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE August 1. - Turbo header and double downpipe arrived this morning. Tear down nearly finished.
Got the turbo header, double downpipe and REV gas tank from Kevin (aka Need for Speed 2) today. THANK YOU KEVIN, your header is a work of art!!!
Pics of the turbo parts.
Got a WBO2 for my friend, thanks Kevin
Turbo header.
Downpipe.
Kevins work is truly a work of art, no doubt about that.
Kevin aka Need for Speed 2 have done a great job in R&D and welding on these parts. I just can't wait to get it done and to wake my sled from the big sleep
A few friends came over to take a look at the turbo parts, man they liked what they saw, mee too hahaha. I got inspired and started the tear down right away.
This is how far I got on the early summer tear down, not much hahaha
I started by removing exhaust caps, plastics, seat and exhaust heat shield.
A pic of the steering post and PowerMadd pivot riser and block. The before pic. It has to go to make room for the Wildchild steering post.
With the heat shield and air filter removed I started removal of the turbo.
All oil lines, boost controller lines and WBO2 wireing Unhooked.
Footwell plastics and intercooler off.
Turbo install bracket off.
Handlebars and riser block off.
Tank covling off.
PowerMadd pivor riser off.
Vortech Race Bypass and fuel tank off.
Secondary clutch off.
Finally MCX rubber charge tube off.
I also removed all tubing from the carb boots, going to make a all new air tubing for the turbo system. All oil lines and electric cables rolled up in the nose cone, most of them have to be cut to lengt and may have new banjo fittings installed to fit the new turbo (GT2860RS-739548-5).
Next is removal of the skid, tunnel protectors, charge tube (pre-cooler), exhaust Y-pipe, heat shield and flex pipes at the motor.
Got the turbo header, double downpipe and REV gas tank from Kevin (aka Need for Speed 2) today. THANK YOU KEVIN, your header is a work of art!!!
Pics of the turbo parts.
Got a WBO2 for my friend, thanks Kevin
Turbo header.
Downpipe.
Kevins work is truly a work of art, no doubt about that.
Kevin aka Need for Speed 2 have done a great job in R&D and welding on these parts. I just can't wait to get it done and to wake my sled from the big sleep
A few friends came over to take a look at the turbo parts, man they liked what they saw, mee too hahaha. I got inspired and started the tear down right away.
This is how far I got on the early summer tear down, not much hahaha
I started by removing exhaust caps, plastics, seat and exhaust heat shield.
A pic of the steering post and PowerMadd pivot riser and block. The before pic. It has to go to make room for the Wildchild steering post.
With the heat shield and air filter removed I started removal of the turbo.
All oil lines, boost controller lines and WBO2 wireing Unhooked.
Footwell plastics and intercooler off.
Turbo install bracket off.
Handlebars and riser block off.
Tank covling off.
PowerMadd pivor riser off.
Vortech Race Bypass and fuel tank off.
Secondary clutch off.
Finally MCX rubber charge tube off.
I also removed all tubing from the carb boots, going to make a all new air tubing for the turbo system. All oil lines and electric cables rolled up in the nose cone, most of them have to be cut to lengt and may have new banjo fittings installed to fit the new turbo (GT2860RS-739548-5).
Next is removal of the skid, tunnel protectors, charge tube (pre-cooler), exhaust Y-pipe, heat shield and flex pipes at the motor.
kinger
VIP Member
Looking good RXrider!
BTW what are you doing with your old turbo parts? I may be interested in purchasing but I'm in the US so I'm not real familar with shipping. I am assuming one of your lucky buddies has dibs
BTW what are you doing with your old turbo parts? I may be interested in purchasing but I'm in the US so I'm not real familar with shipping. I am assuming one of your lucky buddies has dibs
Jan-Ove, that secondary shaft could use some love. Looks like a fun project all the same. Good luck bud, hope it turns out that way you expect it to.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Thanks Matt
It looks like rust but it ain't, it's a brown hi pressure grease which I use on that part
The shaft will be cleaned off and new grease will be applied before the secondary goes in the shaft.
It looks like rust but it ain't, it's a brown hi pressure grease which I use on that part
The shaft will be cleaned off and new grease will be applied before the secondary goes in the shaft.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE August 2. - Tear down nearly finished, part 2.
I was kinda optimistic on the tear down finising estimates, need another evening to get there.
Here's todays work.
Started by removing the stock steering post.
The old steering post is gone to make room for a Wildchild steering relocation kit.
To be able to remove the MCX charge tube and the exhaust parts I had to remove the skid.
Skid need some servicing, I will return with info on the skid at a later time.
After removing the skid I found craks in the frame at the bottom of the rear ZX-2 mounting holes, both sides. The craks seems to be metal fatigue craks so the frame needs some kind of steel reinforcement plates at the rear mounting holes for the skid.
Here's a few pics of the craks.
The MCX exhaust Y-pipe and the rubber charge tube removed.
After removing the Yamaha Y-pipes at the front I found that the rivets holding the Y-pipe bracket to the frame had started to wear thru the frame, one of the rivets had already wore thru the frame.
I'm not going to put that part back in so I'm not too worried about it.
To be able to remove the MCX charge tube (pre-cooler) I had to remove the tunnel protectors. What a pain in the grrrr ouch, still need to drill out the front rivets on the protectors, but can't get to them yet, need to take off the flex pipes first.
I inspected the exhaust donuts, all were in good shape, no need for replacement. This is after 3 seasons turboed, go figure. Nice to have a good set of donuts at hand if the Apex ever need one.
The tear down so far.
Next is removing the flex pipes, heat shield underneat and the tunnel protectors to be able to remove the MCX charge tube. The front suspension A-arms, bushings and steering linkage is another story that has to be taken care of at a later time.
I was kinda optimistic on the tear down finising estimates, need another evening to get there.
Here's todays work.
Started by removing the stock steering post.
The old steering post is gone to make room for a Wildchild steering relocation kit.
To be able to remove the MCX charge tube and the exhaust parts I had to remove the skid.
Skid need some servicing, I will return with info on the skid at a later time.
After removing the skid I found craks in the frame at the bottom of the rear ZX-2 mounting holes, both sides. The craks seems to be metal fatigue craks so the frame needs some kind of steel reinforcement plates at the rear mounting holes for the skid.
Here's a few pics of the craks.
The MCX exhaust Y-pipe and the rubber charge tube removed.
After removing the Yamaha Y-pipes at the front I found that the rivets holding the Y-pipe bracket to the frame had started to wear thru the frame, one of the rivets had already wore thru the frame.
I'm not going to put that part back in so I'm not too worried about it.
To be able to remove the MCX charge tube (pre-cooler) I had to remove the tunnel protectors. What a pain in the grrrr ouch, still need to drill out the front rivets on the protectors, but can't get to them yet, need to take off the flex pipes first.
I inspected the exhaust donuts, all were in good shape, no need for replacement. This is after 3 seasons turboed, go figure. Nice to have a good set of donuts at hand if the Apex ever need one.
The tear down so far.
Next is removing the flex pipes, heat shield underneat and the tunnel protectors to be able to remove the MCX charge tube. The front suspension A-arms, bushings and steering linkage is another story that has to be taken care of at a later time.
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