rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Blue shadow said:
Thanks Blue shadow, yes it is ported and ceramic coated.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE October 25. - Mock up install of the header, turbo, downpipe and heat shields.
Today I started the mockup install of the header, turbo and downpipe.
With the turbo installed on top of the header I was finally able to measure where to make the cut for the exhaust downpipe. Exhaust will be dumped straight down into the tunnel.
First to thing to do was some measuring and marking up where to make the cut in the bulkhead frame. I used a stepped drill bit to drill out holes to make the cutting process a little easier.
I was able to cut out most of the hole using the drill.
After som grinding with a die grinder and a file the hole for the downpipe was starting to take shape.
A lot of grinding was needed before the downpipe was ready to install. I had the downpipe on and off numerous times before I was happy with it. I've left enough space around the downpipe to prevent it from touching the the bulkhead frame when the engine twists under load, that would put a lot of stress on the header while it's glowing red causing it to crack prematurely.
The downpipe installed.
Here's what it looks like seen from under the tunnel.
Next was mocking up the plate to cover up the stock exhaust outlet holes. I had the plate done but it needed some bending to make it fit with the downpipe.
The plate in place.
Seen from under the tunnel.
Downpipe and cover plate in place.
Next was fitting the Powder Lites turbo heat shield to my sled. Mind you the PL header is a lot shorter than the Need for Speed header I'm running, thus the PL heat shield had to be modified quite a bit to fit in my configuration. I even had to modify it to install it from above the turbo rather then from the rear of the turbo as intended. This required a lot of hammering to reshape the heat shield. Finally I was able to place it over the turbo. I also installed the modified stock exhaust heat shield.
The heat shields are starting to take shape. Here's a few pics of how it looks like so far.
The heat shield still requires a lot more fine tuning before it will fit 100%, it also needs holes to be drilled out for riveting it to the frame. Lots of work ahead but it's fun having the essential parts in house, now I can fabricate and mockup parts that has to be made and start assembling the sled. My schedule is set to have the project done by mid December. I hope to be able to fire up the engine a lot earlier tho
Today I started the mockup install of the header, turbo and downpipe.
With the turbo installed on top of the header I was finally able to measure where to make the cut for the exhaust downpipe. Exhaust will be dumped straight down into the tunnel.
First to thing to do was some measuring and marking up where to make the cut in the bulkhead frame. I used a stepped drill bit to drill out holes to make the cutting process a little easier.
I was able to cut out most of the hole using the drill.
After som grinding with a die grinder and a file the hole for the downpipe was starting to take shape.
A lot of grinding was needed before the downpipe was ready to install. I had the downpipe on and off numerous times before I was happy with it. I've left enough space around the downpipe to prevent it from touching the the bulkhead frame when the engine twists under load, that would put a lot of stress on the header while it's glowing red causing it to crack prematurely.
The downpipe installed.
Here's what it looks like seen from under the tunnel.
Next was mocking up the plate to cover up the stock exhaust outlet holes. I had the plate done but it needed some bending to make it fit with the downpipe.
The plate in place.
Seen from under the tunnel.
Downpipe and cover plate in place.
Next was fitting the Powder Lites turbo heat shield to my sled. Mind you the PL header is a lot shorter than the Need for Speed header I'm running, thus the PL heat shield had to be modified quite a bit to fit in my configuration. I even had to modify it to install it from above the turbo rather then from the rear of the turbo as intended. This required a lot of hammering to reshape the heat shield. Finally I was able to place it over the turbo. I also installed the modified stock exhaust heat shield.
The heat shields are starting to take shape. Here's a few pics of how it looks like so far.
The heat shield still requires a lot more fine tuning before it will fit 100%, it also needs holes to be drilled out for riveting it to the frame. Lots of work ahead but it's fun having the essential parts in house, now I can fabricate and mockup parts that has to be made and start assembling the sled. My schedule is set to have the project done by mid December. I hope to be able to fire up the engine a lot earlier tho
nytroERrider
Expert
Hey, your project is coming along quite nicely!!!! Im very impressed. Quick question, are you going to be running a exhaust on that? Out the back or under the tunnel?
Jake
Jake
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- 7,355
- Age
- 59
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
nytroERrider said:
No, this is my exhaust.
The exhaust downpipe from the turbo and exiting down into the tunnel.
Seen from underneat the tunnel.
No muffler planned so far. I will run it and see if it's any louder than the rearmount MCXpress kit I used to run. Will add an Excell or Hindle exhaust later on if needed.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE October 27. - Installing magneto washer and bolt, mogneto cover and gasket, oil tank and hoses.
I have removed the MCX oil return pump from previously installed on the magneto cover. I needed a new washer to underneat the magneto bolt as the old washer had to be drilled out to fit the slightly thicker MCX bolt. With magneto cover gasket and washer in house I started to reinstall the magneto cover.
First I installed the bolt and washer onto the crank shaft, magneto was in still in place. I had my friend Mikkel holding the primary clutch while I was torking the magneto bolt to 130 NM with my Torque wrench. With the bolt torked down I checked that the guide pins where in place on the block, then I went forward installing the gasket onto the guide pins.
Next was aligning the magneto cover onto the block. This is kinda tricky as the magneto is VERY strong.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO HOLD THE MAGNETO COVER WITH YOUR FINGERS BEYOND THE EDGE OF THE MAGNETO COVER, or your fingers may be severely squeezed.
It takes two guys to pull the magneto away if your fingers get trapped behind the cover....... no I have never had it happen to me, but once I have to help a good friend of mine loose from the magneto cover on a RX-1 he worked on, that's how I know.
OK - align the cover and move slowly on towards the engine block, hold the cover as hard as you can. At about 25 millimeter or 1" the magneto starts to pull very hard on the cover and all of the sudden you will not longer be able to hold the cover with your bare hands and it will slam into the block with a bang. It is therefor important to have the gasket perfectly in place and the cover aligned witht he bolt holes and the guide pins or else the gasket will be destroyed when the cover slams into the block. The magneto will keep the cover from sitting onto the block, if you push the cover onto the block and let go of if it will move out again a few millimeters. Before installing cover bolts check that the gasket are still in place and undamaged, align the bolt holes and install bolts. Torke them down to 12 NM in a start pattern to insure even tork and prevent warping the cover.
The cover and plastic cover plug installed. Power wires from the magneto attached to the engine and connector plugged into the rectifier in the nose cone.
With the cover in place it was time to install the oil tank. The MCX oil spacer kit has previously been removed. I started by checking tork on the oil drain screw at the bottom of the oil tank. Next was connecting the oil line to the bottom of the oil tank and securing it with a hose clamp. Then I went on with installing the remainding oil and vent lines. Finally I mounted the oil tank to the sled and torked it down.
Done.
I also rerouted some of the wireing and brake hose up at the handlebars securing them with some zip-ties, looks much better now. I have no pics, will have later on as I have a lot of work to do with the hood and windscreen, will take more pics then
I have removed the MCX oil return pump from previously installed on the magneto cover. I needed a new washer to underneat the magneto bolt as the old washer had to be drilled out to fit the slightly thicker MCX bolt. With magneto cover gasket and washer in house I started to reinstall the magneto cover.
First I installed the bolt and washer onto the crank shaft, magneto was in still in place. I had my friend Mikkel holding the primary clutch while I was torking the magneto bolt to 130 NM with my Torque wrench. With the bolt torked down I checked that the guide pins where in place on the block, then I went forward installing the gasket onto the guide pins.
Next was aligning the magneto cover onto the block. This is kinda tricky as the magneto is VERY strong.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO HOLD THE MAGNETO COVER WITH YOUR FINGERS BEYOND THE EDGE OF THE MAGNETO COVER, or your fingers may be severely squeezed.
It takes two guys to pull the magneto away if your fingers get trapped behind the cover....... no I have never had it happen to me, but once I have to help a good friend of mine loose from the magneto cover on a RX-1 he worked on, that's how I know.
OK - align the cover and move slowly on towards the engine block, hold the cover as hard as you can. At about 25 millimeter or 1" the magneto starts to pull very hard on the cover and all of the sudden you will not longer be able to hold the cover with your bare hands and it will slam into the block with a bang. It is therefor important to have the gasket perfectly in place and the cover aligned witht he bolt holes and the guide pins or else the gasket will be destroyed when the cover slams into the block. The magneto will keep the cover from sitting onto the block, if you push the cover onto the block and let go of if it will move out again a few millimeters. Before installing cover bolts check that the gasket are still in place and undamaged, align the bolt holes and install bolts. Torke them down to 12 NM in a start pattern to insure even tork and prevent warping the cover.
The cover and plastic cover plug installed. Power wires from the magneto attached to the engine and connector plugged into the rectifier in the nose cone.
With the cover in place it was time to install the oil tank. The MCX oil spacer kit has previously been removed. I started by checking tork on the oil drain screw at the bottom of the oil tank. Next was connecting the oil line to the bottom of the oil tank and securing it with a hose clamp. Then I went on with installing the remainding oil and vent lines. Finally I mounted the oil tank to the sled and torked it down.
Done.
I also rerouted some of the wireing and brake hose up at the handlebars securing them with some zip-ties, looks much better now. I have no pics, will have later on as I have a lot of work to do with the hood and windscreen, will take more pics then
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE October 28. - Installing cover plate for the old exhaust outlet. Making a cover plate for the new exhaust downpipe.
With all measuring done to verify that the new exhaust downpipe would fit I started the process of riveting the cover plate for the old exhaust outlet holes to the bulkhead frame.
I started by adding a combined sealer and glue called Tech-7, it's very recillient and withstands acids, heat and general wear very well. With the Tech-7 added between the surfaces of the cover plate and bulkhead frame I finally riveted the plate in place.
Done.
I installed the cover plate for the header and then the downpipe. All parts fits perfectly
I went on by installing the RH side water cooling tube to the turbo. The LH side did not fit as it interferred with the deltabox D-frame piece. The LH side tube was straight, it should have been a 90 degree bend pointing forward or 45 degree to the right. I tried to bend it but it's made of a very hard stainless alloy, thus trying to bend it made it crack - what a bummer grrrr
. I guess I'll have to make a new tube with the correct bend to it and weld it to the banjo fitting.
With the help of my friend Mikkel I started to make a template for a cover plate intended to be installed in the front of the tunnel to prevent water from entering the engine compartment when water skipping.
The template done. It fits perfectly around the exhaust.
Transferred the template onto a piece of aluminum sheet metal. Working on the cover plate.
The exhaust downpipe hole finished. The plate still have be adjusted slightly to fit in the tunnel.
We finally got the first snow here at sealevel. Nothing much, an inch at the most, but it's a start.
No wonder I'm all stressed up getting my sled done for the season, hahaha
LET IT SNOW - IT'S TURBO TIME
With all measuring done to verify that the new exhaust downpipe would fit I started the process of riveting the cover plate for the old exhaust outlet holes to the bulkhead frame.
I started by adding a combined sealer and glue called Tech-7, it's very recillient and withstands acids, heat and general wear very well. With the Tech-7 added between the surfaces of the cover plate and bulkhead frame I finally riveted the plate in place.
Done.
I installed the cover plate for the header and then the downpipe. All parts fits perfectly
I went on by installing the RH side water cooling tube to the turbo. The LH side did not fit as it interferred with the deltabox D-frame piece. The LH side tube was straight, it should have been a 90 degree bend pointing forward or 45 degree to the right. I tried to bend it but it's made of a very hard stainless alloy, thus trying to bend it made it crack - what a bummer grrrr
. I guess I'll have to make a new tube with the correct bend to it and weld it to the banjo fitting.
With the help of my friend Mikkel I started to make a template for a cover plate intended to be installed in the front of the tunnel to prevent water from entering the engine compartment when water skipping.
The template done. It fits perfectly around the exhaust.
Transferred the template onto a piece of aluminum sheet metal. Working on the cover plate.
The exhaust downpipe hole finished. The plate still have be adjusted slightly to fit in the tunnel.
We finally got the first snow here at sealevel. Nothing much, an inch at the most, but it's a start.
No wonder I'm all stressed up getting my sled done for the season, hahaha
LET IT SNOW - IT'S TURBO TIME
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE October 29. - Installing the cover plate for the new exhaust downpipe continued.
The plate had to be bent at the front edge to fit the frame. I also had to grind the hole bigger to accomodate the downpipe.
It still needed some adjustments in the downpipe area to allow the downpipe a little more space to move with the engine under load.
Mockup done, time to install the downpipe cover plate. I put it into place and clamped it down using whatever I had to hold it in place. I used a wisegrip and a hose clamping plier tool (or whatever it's called hahaha). I definitively need to buy some clamping tools and a few more wisegrips for this type of work.
With the plate in place I marked up where to drill holes for rivets, some where to be riveted from underneat but it wasn't possible to drill out the holes from above so a little measuring had to be done prior to drilling.
With the holes drilled I added Tech-7 sealer/glue around the edges of the plate and riveted into place.
Exhaust downpipe cover plate installed.
This is how it looks like from underneat the tunnel.
Next step will be installing the plate to cover the centre of the tunnel.
The plate had to be bent at the front edge to fit the frame. I also had to grind the hole bigger to accomodate the downpipe.
It still needed some adjustments in the downpipe area to allow the downpipe a little more space to move with the engine under load.
Mockup done, time to install the downpipe cover plate. I put it into place and clamped it down using whatever I had to hold it in place. I used a wisegrip and a hose clamping plier tool (or whatever it's called hahaha). I definitively need to buy some clamping tools and a few more wisegrips for this type of work.
With the plate in place I marked up where to drill holes for rivets, some where to be riveted from underneat but it wasn't possible to drill out the holes from above so a little measuring had to be done prior to drilling.
With the holes drilled I added Tech-7 sealer/glue around the edges of the plate and riveted into place.
Exhaust downpipe cover plate installed.
This is how it looks like from underneat the tunnel.
Next step will be installing the plate to cover the centre of the tunnel.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
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- 59
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE October 29. - Installing plate to cover up the tunnel.
Before installing the plate on top of the center of the tunnel I had to fit a small plate to go on top of the downpipe cover plate. This had to be done to fill in the gap that would otherwise been between the plates, and to prevent water to enter between the plates. The plate is also there to serve as a mounting point for the center plate.
The small plate adjusted to fit, Tech-7 added.
Seen from underneat the tunnel. Ready for centre plate install.
Adjusting of the centre plate in process.
Had to grind some off both the center plate and the frame to make the center plate fit. Done adjusting, ready to be riveted onto the tunnel.
With the plate in place I pre-drilled a few holes, added the Tech-7 and started to rivet the plate to the frame.
Almost done.
Done.
Seen from underneat.
Last step in covering up the tunnel will be installing of the rear tunnel piece to go where the rear bulkhead used to be. I have to install 2 more rivets in the downpipe cover plate and hammer the small bend in front to fit the bulkhead frame perfectly. With the tunnel work done I'm ready to start installing the drive train
It feels great finally making progress. I'm starting to feel confident that the sled will be ready to ride come mid December.
Before installing the plate on top of the center of the tunnel I had to fit a small plate to go on top of the downpipe cover plate. This had to be done to fill in the gap that would otherwise been between the plates, and to prevent water to enter between the plates. The plate is also there to serve as a mounting point for the center plate.
The small plate adjusted to fit, Tech-7 added.
Seen from underneat the tunnel. Ready for centre plate install.
Adjusting of the centre plate in process.
Had to grind some off both the center plate and the frame to make the center plate fit. Done adjusting, ready to be riveted onto the tunnel.
With the plate in place I pre-drilled a few holes, added the Tech-7 and started to rivet the plate to the frame.
Almost done.
Done.
Seen from underneat.
Last step in covering up the tunnel will be installing of the rear tunnel piece to go where the rear bulkhead used to be. I have to install 2 more rivets in the downpipe cover plate and hammer the small bend in front to fit the bulkhead frame perfectly. With the tunnel work done I'm ready to start installing the drive train
It feels great finally making progress. I'm starting to feel confident that the sled will be ready to ride come mid December.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE October 29. - Installing water cooling tubes to the turbo. Installing plate where the rear bulkhead frame piece used to be.
Because of the header I run one of the water line banjo connectors in the water cooling kit I ordered from Powder Lites did not fit to the turbo, it could not be installed because it hit the deltabox frame on the left of the turbo. I tried to bend the connector but it cracked. Today I visited the welder (Alfarrustad Sveis og Mek), Roger made me a new connector, it has the correct bend to it and the pipe is pointing in the perfect direction for connecting the coolant hose.
The connector installed on the turbo.
After spending a few hours at my friend Thomas aka Sneip1fmx's garage helping him out assembling his Phazer FX engine, it was time finishing off my tunnel project.
First I pre-drilled some holes in the tunnel needed when installing the plate onto the tunnel.
After some measuring I transferred the measurements onto a piece aluminum sheet metal and cut it out.
I predrilled a few holes in the plate and riveted it to the tunnel.
Finally I drilled out the remaining holes and riveted the plate to the tunnel, added some Tech-7 and were done with it.
Only tunnel work remaining is installing 2 more rivets at the very front of the downpipe cover plate and hammer the front bend to fit the frame.
EDIT: Tunnel work is done
Because of the header I run one of the water line banjo connectors in the water cooling kit I ordered from Powder Lites did not fit to the turbo, it could not be installed because it hit the deltabox frame on the left of the turbo. I tried to bend the connector but it cracked. Today I visited the welder (Alfarrustad Sveis og Mek), Roger made me a new connector, it has the correct bend to it and the pipe is pointing in the perfect direction for connecting the coolant hose.
The connector installed on the turbo.
After spending a few hours at my friend Thomas aka Sneip1fmx's garage helping him out assembling his Phazer FX engine, it was time finishing off my tunnel project.
First I pre-drilled some holes in the tunnel needed when installing the plate onto the tunnel.
After some measuring I transferred the measurements onto a piece aluminum sheet metal and cut it out.
I predrilled a few holes in the plate and riveted it to the tunnel.
Finally I drilled out the remaining holes and riveted the plate to the tunnel, added some Tech-7 and were done with it.
Only tunnel work remaining is installing 2 more rivets at the very front of the downpipe cover plate and hammer the front bend to fit the frame.
EDIT: Tunnel work is done
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE November 1. - Tunnel work was not done, now it is .
How could I overlook it, there was an obvious flaw with my design shown in the pic below, what would it be?
There is an opening with a passage straight to the the downpipe the way I had it in the pic above. This could have caused a heating problem with radiant heat reaching the fuel tank.
To fix the flaw I installed a heatshield over the passage to prevent radiant heat to reach the fuel tank.
Some measuring, drilling of holes for rivets and some hammering to get it into shape was done and the plate installed. Done.
My MCXpress RX-1 turbo kit is sold. I packed it up this evening. It's ready to ship when deal is closed
It's time to get hold of a high performance intercooler and a electronic boost controller.
Any input on IC's that would work past 350+ HP is much appreciated. I'm looking at an AEM TrueBoost electronic boost controller and meter, anyone running one? How's it working, any positive or negative?
.How could I overlook it, there was an obvious flaw with my design shown in the pic below, what would it be?
There is an opening with a passage straight to the the downpipe the way I had it in the pic above. This could have caused a heating problem with radiant heat reaching the fuel tank.
To fix the flaw I installed a heatshield over the passage to prevent radiant heat to reach the fuel tank.
Some measuring, drilling of holes for rivets and some hammering to get it into shape was done and the plate installed. Done.
My MCXpress RX-1 turbo kit is sold. I packed it up this evening. It's ready to ship when deal is closed
It's time to get hold of a high performance intercooler and a electronic boost controller.
Any input on IC's that would work past 350+ HP is much appreciated. I'm looking at an AEM TrueBoost electronic boost controller and meter, anyone running one? How's it working, any positive or negative?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE November 3. - Fuel tank is done, preparing for install.
My friend Odd Steffen came by today to have a look at his new turbo parts for his front mount conversion. Parts on the shelf ready for install (not the Mitsubishi turbo, it's for sale).
My friend also did the fuel pickup sensor install on my fuel tank, great work buddy, thanks
Preparing for fuel tank install. I need to install a few (six) rubber spacers to go underneat the tank to keep it from rubbing on the rivets on top of the tunnel. I used the 4 rubber pieces that used to go underneat the stock fuel tank, in addition I made 2 more rubber spacers, 3 millimeter.
Work continues tomorrow
My friend Odd Steffen came by today to have a look at his new turbo parts for his front mount conversion. Parts on the shelf ready for install (not the Mitsubishi turbo, it's for sale).
My friend also did the fuel pickup sensor install on my fuel tank, great work buddy, thanks
Preparing for fuel tank install. I need to install a few (six) rubber spacers to go underneat the tank to keep it from rubbing on the rivets on top of the tunnel. I used the 4 rubber pieces that used to go underneat the stock fuel tank, in addition I made 2 more rubber spacers, 3 millimeter.
Work continues tomorrow
TBird
Expert
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2004
- Messages
- 379
- Location
- North of Sweden
- Country
- Sweden
- Snowmobile
- Yamaha Viper and Yamaha Nypex
Looking good Jan-Ove, it seems you got it figured out now, very nice!!!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Yeah the first one takes a lot of time figuring out what to do and how to do it, but I'm getting there sloooooowlyyyy. My next challenge will be making the hood fit over the turbo, some cutting is required.
I'm in the process of buying a high performance intercooler capable of supporting past 350 HP.
MCX was not able not make a IC this year as they were swamped with work producing turbo kits
:-( for me
for them
Ted Jannetty have race IC's on the shelf but kinda pricey, but they're the largest I've seen anywhere.
Still waiting for reply from PL.
See ya buddy
I'm in the process of buying a high performance intercooler capable of supporting past 350 HP.
MCX was not able not make a IC this year as they were swamped with work producing turbo kits
:-( for me
for themTed Jannetty have race IC's on the shelf but kinda pricey, but they're the largest I've seen anywhere.
Still waiting for reply from PL.
See ya buddy
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE November 4. - Turbo and downpipe mockup install.
Yesterday I started the mockup install of the turbo and downpipe. It took some work to get the bolts into place. For the turbo I had to make a few headless bolts to go in at the rear of the turbo. Reason for this is that I could not get bolts with an appropriate lengt to go in at this position nor from top or bottom. With the headless bolts threaded into the header I was able to install the turbo on top of the header.
The downpipe also gave me some headache on the install. I was not able to install a bolt of the appropriate length in the bolthole at the lower right of the downpipe flange. To remedy this I had to cut out space making a U-hole for the bolt to be inserted from the side.
I also had to make some adjustments to the hole in the frame where the downpipe exits as I was just barely able to jerk the downpipe up and out, installing was impossible so I had to grind away a few millimeters in a few spots to make for an easy install of the downpipe.
With these small adjustments the turbo and header installed pretty easy
With the turbo and downpipe in place I mounted the hood to the sled to see how it fits. Need for Speed 2 (Kevin) warned me about some cutting required running his header before I bought the header and downpipe from him so I was not surprised when the hood did not fit. The hood would not have fit with PL stage 3 header either.... measured header height on my friends sled... turbo sits just over 10 millimeters or about 1/2" higher on my sled compared to his.
Here's some pics of the hood installed.
Obviously it doesn't fit, not by a longshot.
I have to cut the hood close to the headlight pod to make room for the turbo.
Let the cutting begin.
I will also start working on the heatshields any day soon. A new HP IC, a oil line restrictor and oil return kit will be ordered next week. As it looks right now I will get the parts from Ted Jannetty, got the reply on my inquiry the very next day . I'm still waiting for a reply on my inquiry with Powder Lites on the same parts, one week pending....
Yesterday I started the mockup install of the turbo and downpipe. It took some work to get the bolts into place. For the turbo I had to make a few headless bolts to go in at the rear of the turbo. Reason for this is that I could not get bolts with an appropriate lengt to go in at this position nor from top or bottom. With the headless bolts threaded into the header I was able to install the turbo on top of the header.
The downpipe also gave me some headache on the install. I was not able to install a bolt of the appropriate length in the bolthole at the lower right of the downpipe flange. To remedy this I had to cut out space making a U-hole for the bolt to be inserted from the side.
I also had to make some adjustments to the hole in the frame where the downpipe exits as I was just barely able to jerk the downpipe up and out, installing was impossible so I had to grind away a few millimeters in a few spots to make for an easy install of the downpipe.
With these small adjustments the turbo and header installed pretty easy
With the turbo and downpipe in place I mounted the hood to the sled to see how it fits. Need for Speed 2 (Kevin) warned me about some cutting required running his header before I bought the header and downpipe from him so I was not surprised when the hood did not fit. The hood would not have fit with PL stage 3 header either.... measured header height on my friends sled... turbo sits just over 10 millimeters or about 1/2" higher on my sled compared to his.
Here's some pics of the hood installed.
Obviously it doesn't fit, not by a longshot.
I have to cut the hood close to the headlight pod to make room for the turbo.
Let the cutting begin.
I will also start working on the heatshields any day soon. A new HP IC, a oil line restrictor and oil return kit will be ordered next week. As it looks right now I will get the parts from Ted Jannetty, got the reply on my inquiry the very next day
. I'm still waiting for a reply on my inquiry with Powder Lites on the same parts, one week pending....
Blue shadow
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Nice work from back to front ,you are close to being done.Are you leaving the down pipe in the tunel ? I lost some top speed when going over 100 miles done this way .I now have a 2 1/2 inch pipe all the way to the back and made more top end by just doing this.
