You are keeping the IC, oil return pump, oil filter adapter and oil feed line, carb rings, carb silicon hoses, fuel pump and fuel regulator - right?
And rest is up for sale (turbo, turbo basket/frame, with oil drain tank, oil return hoses (pump- and vent hose) precooler, silicon hose between precooler+IC and exhaust pipe/Y-pipe)?
If so shoot me a pm with your price.
And rest is up for sale (turbo, turbo basket/frame, with oil drain tank, oil return hoses (pump- and vent hose) precooler, silicon hose between precooler+IC and exhaust pipe/Y-pipe)?
If so shoot me a pm with your price.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
When installing the NFS2 & PL turbo parts I will take off:
- oil return pump
- oil filter adapter
- oil feed, return lines and vent line for the turbo
- Mitsubishi 16T turbo
- turbo mounting bracket
- exhaust Y-pipe
- P2 tube/charge tube
- turbo to P2 hose
- P2 to IC hose
If someone is interested in buying the kit as a whole I will also take off:
- InterCooler
- silicon hoses between IC and carbs
- Bosch fuel pump
- Malpassi fuel pressure regulator
- Autometer boost meter
- Hallman Pro RX boost controller
Only parts I will keep either way is the carb rings, as they are epoxyed onto the carbs and I would have to get a new set to keep the IC in place.
Preferrably I will sell it as a complete kit, except a few parts already in my motor like cylinder head gaskets, magneto cover gasket, carb rings.
I'm asking NOK 19000,- for the complete kit, this includes an Autometer boost meter and a Hallman Pro RX boost controller.
Brand new kit is SEK 37900,- (no boost controller and boost meter included) + shipping and customs declaration cost, somewhere around NOK 35000,- delivered at the door in Norway.
TT - Let me know if you have someone close to you interested in buying my old MCX-press turbo kit.
- oil return pump
- oil filter adapter
- oil feed, return lines and vent line for the turbo
- Mitsubishi 16T turbo
- turbo mounting bracket
- exhaust Y-pipe
- P2 tube/charge tube
- turbo to P2 hose
- P2 to IC hose
If someone is interested in buying the kit as a whole I will also take off:
- InterCooler
- silicon hoses between IC and carbs
- Bosch fuel pump
- Malpassi fuel pressure regulator
- Autometer boost meter
- Hallman Pro RX boost controller
Only parts I will keep either way is the carb rings, as they are epoxyed onto the carbs and I would have to get a new set to keep the IC in place.
Preferrably I will sell it as a complete kit, except a few parts already in my motor like cylinder head gaskets, magneto cover gasket, carb rings.
I'm asking NOK 19000,- for the complete kit, this includes an Autometer boost meter and a Hallman Pro RX boost controller.
Brand new kit is SEK 37900,- (no boost controller and boost meter included) + shipping and customs declaration cost, somewhere around NOK 35000,- delivered at the door in Norway.
TT - Let me know if you have someone close to you interested in buying my old MCX-press turbo kit.
kinger
VIP Member
That is $3100 approximately for thos US interested parties.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
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- 59
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Thanks kinger, that's correct.
For the Canadian interested parties it would be $3500 CDN
For the Canadian interested parties it would be $3500 CDN
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE October 9. - Removing MCXpress turbo kit parts. The MCX turbo kit is up for sale.
I have decided to sell my MCXpress turbo kit as a complete package. So today I started by removing the oil tank spacer kit, I also removed the MCX oil return pump and hose.
The tank is out of the way. The turbo oil return pump is installed into the magneto side cover, where the large plastic plug used to be. First I had to remove the oil return pump lid and remove the pump housing and internals.
To unscrew the remaining pump parts I had to install 2 screws to be able to use a large screwdriver to loosen the pump from the magneto cover.
The cover and magneto covered up to avoid foreign particles and debris to get inside the engine.
I destroyed the gasket while removing the magneto cover, new gasket has to be ordered. I also have to order a new washer for the stock magneto bolt. The MCX magneto bolt is a tad thicker above the threads than the stock bolt so the washer had to be drilled out slightly to fit the MCX bolt when installed way back.
Removed the oil feed line for the MCX turbo.
I left the oil filter adaptor plate in place, will check if the plate does fit the Powder Lites oil feed line and if it does I may leave the MCX adaptor plate in place.
Turbo parts arrived in Germany today, guess I have them at my door at the end of next week.
Boxing up the MCXpress turbo kit, need a larger box for shipping thos
I have decided to sell my MCXpress turbo kit as a complete package. So today I started by removing the oil tank spacer kit, I also removed the MCX oil return pump and hose.
The tank is out of the way. The turbo oil return pump is installed into the magneto side cover, where the large plastic plug used to be. First I had to remove the oil return pump lid and remove the pump housing and internals.
To unscrew the remaining pump parts I had to install 2 screws to be able to use a large screwdriver to loosen the pump from the magneto cover.
The cover and magneto covered up to avoid foreign particles and debris to get inside the engine.
I destroyed the gasket while removing the magneto cover, new gasket has to be ordered. I also have to order a new washer for the stock magneto bolt. The MCX magneto bolt is a tad thicker above the threads than the stock bolt so the washer had to be drilled out slightly to fit the MCX bolt when installed way back.
Removed the oil feed line for the MCX turbo.
I left the oil filter adaptor plate in place, will check if the plate does fit the Powder Lites oil feed line and if it does I may leave the MCX adaptor plate in place.
Turbo parts arrived in Germany today, guess I have them at my door at the end of next week.
Boxing up the MCXpress turbo kit, need a larger box for shipping thos
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE October 13. - Installing the RX-1 fuel meter pickup to the REV gas tank and plugging the original tank vent. Relocating the dash piece.
I need to able to keep track of my fuel level while out riding. To be able to run the RX-1 fuel meter pickup I have to modify the tank by cutting out a 29 millimeter or 1.15 inch hole in the front of the tank where I'm going to install the fuel meter pickup. The fuel meter pickup also has to be modified to measure full and empty levels correctly, and it has to be able to move freely inside the tank without hitting any obstacles.
Preparing to cut out the hole for the fuel meter pickup. The meter had to be in the front of the tank. It took some measuring to find the best spot for the pickup. I ended up cutting a hole as shown on my drawings on the tank.
Then some drilling and grinding the hole with the Dreml to get the correct diameter.
First attempt on fitting the fuel meter pickup to the layout of the REV gas tank.
I'm getting close in fitting the pickup to the empty and full levels.
Bummer I forgot to check the pickup movement installed in the hole where it is finally going to be installed, there were obstacles that the pickup had to move clear of.
Second attempt. Out it went and another round of creative bending took place.
Pretty close fit....
Still not 100%... Third attempt
Now it fit perfect, movement of the arm was not hindered by anything and the full and empty positions were perfect as well.
Here's what it looks like when installed.
I still have to figure a way to fasten the fuel meter pickup to the tank wall. I have a few ideas I'll have to explore. I will also have to make a rubber piece to underneat the pickup. It has to have a 29 millimeter hole in the center and 4 holes in the corners for the bolts, and it also has to fit perfectly underneat the lid of the pickup to prevent leakage.
Speedo dash piece relocation.
When installing the Wildchild steering relocation kit the steering post moved forward a lot. Now when turning the handle bars to either side the riser block hits the speedo, the speedo dash piece has to be relocated. I run a REV gas tank with the filler neck where the steering gate used to be, can't install it there. Can't installed it on the handlebars to the rear because of gas tank filler neck...... I figured I would move the speedo dash piece upwards keeping it at the same angle and on the same trajectory as it was installed earlier. I had some 1.5 millimeter aluminum sheet metal to make a bracket for the relocation.
Found some cardbord and started to make a template. The template about finished.
Here's a pic of the speedo mounted on the template to give an idea of how it's going to be when finished. I'm happy with it.
Next was transferring the template onto the aluminum sheet metal and drilling the holes needed for the bolts and wireing.
The relocation bracket's done. Installing the speedo to the bracket. Testing in progress....
I mounted the speedo onto the bracket and did a mockup install. With seat, hood, windscreen and speedo installed to get a better view of how the speedo would work in it's new position.
I was not too happy with the positioning of the speedo, the tachometer was ok but the speedo itself was too low down making it hard to read the numbers without leaning forward quite a lot. Also the 1.5 millimeter sheet aluminum is too thin and flexes with the speedo installed. Something has to be done.
After some testing and measuring I found that raising the speedo dash piece 20 millimeter was the ticket. This placed the speedo unit close up nearly touching the windscreen up on top.
Here's how it will look like in the new position.
I have already made a new taller relocation bracket to go on top of the old one making the combined brackets a lot stiffer and rigid while at the same time adding to the height to get the speedo up where I can see it without having to lend forward.
Will continue working on the speedo, boost, afr and water temp install asap.
I need to able to keep track of my fuel level while out riding. To be able to run the RX-1 fuel meter pickup I have to modify the tank by cutting out a 29 millimeter or 1.15 inch hole in the front of the tank where I'm going to install the fuel meter pickup. The fuel meter pickup also has to be modified to measure full and empty levels correctly, and it has to be able to move freely inside the tank without hitting any obstacles.
Preparing to cut out the hole for the fuel meter pickup. The meter had to be in the front of the tank. It took some measuring to find the best spot for the pickup. I ended up cutting a hole as shown on my drawings on the tank.
Then some drilling and grinding the hole with the Dreml to get the correct diameter.
First attempt on fitting the fuel meter pickup to the layout of the REV gas tank.
I'm getting close in fitting the pickup to the empty and full levels.
Bummer I forgot to check the pickup movement installed in the hole where it is finally going to be installed, there were obstacles that the pickup had to move clear of.
Second attempt. Out it went and another round of creative bending took place.
Pretty close fit....
Still not 100%... Third attempt
Now it fit perfect, movement of the arm was not hindered by anything and the full and empty positions were perfect as well.
Here's what it looks like when installed.
I still have to figure a way to fasten the fuel meter pickup to the tank wall. I have a few ideas I'll have to explore. I will also have to make a rubber piece to underneat the pickup. It has to have a 29 millimeter hole in the center and 4 holes in the corners for the bolts, and it also has to fit perfectly underneat the lid of the pickup to prevent leakage.
Speedo dash piece relocation.
When installing the Wildchild steering relocation kit the steering post moved forward a lot. Now when turning the handle bars to either side the riser block hits the speedo, the speedo dash piece has to be relocated. I run a REV gas tank with the filler neck where the steering gate used to be, can't install it there. Can't installed it on the handlebars to the rear because of gas tank filler neck...... I figured I would move the speedo dash piece upwards keeping it at the same angle and on the same trajectory as it was installed earlier. I had some 1.5 millimeter aluminum sheet metal to make a bracket for the relocation.
Found some cardbord and started to make a template. The template about finished.
Here's a pic of the speedo mounted on the template to give an idea of how it's going to be when finished. I'm happy with it.
Next was transferring the template onto the aluminum sheet metal and drilling the holes needed for the bolts and wireing.
The relocation bracket's done. Installing the speedo to the bracket. Testing in progress....
I mounted the speedo onto the bracket and did a mockup install. With seat, hood, windscreen and speedo installed to get a better view of how the speedo would work in it's new position.
I was not too happy with the positioning of the speedo, the tachometer was ok but the speedo itself was too low down making it hard to read the numbers without leaning forward quite a lot. Also the 1.5 millimeter sheet aluminum is too thin and flexes with the speedo installed. Something has to be done.
After some testing and measuring I found that raising the speedo dash piece 20 millimeter was the ticket. This placed the speedo unit close up nearly touching the windscreen up on top.
Here's how it will look like in the new position.
I have already made a new taller relocation bracket to go on top of the old one making the combined brackets a lot stiffer and rigid while at the same time adding to the height to get the speedo up where I can see it without having to lend forward.
Will continue working on the speedo, boost, afr and water temp install asap.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE October 14. - Working on the the dashboard relocation bracket.
I had already made a new bracket yesterday so todays work was installing/fitting the speedo and bracket to the hood plastics. Some grinding of both the hood and the new bracket were needed to make it fit perfectly.
I drilled out 6 corresponding holes in both the aluminum bracket and hood plastic, the bracket is to be riveted to the hood plastic.
Ready for test install on the sled.
Some additional grinding needed on the bottom of the bracket to make more room for the cables from the bars. This is what it looks like installed in the sled viewed from the drivers position on the seat. Nice
Another pic taken from the side of the sled. I think it's working just great.
Mockup's done. The bracket is ready to go to the painter, will do tomorrow. I need to drill out yet another hole in the hood plastics to make room for the speedo wireing. With the bracket painted in black, I'm ready to start assembling the hood parts. I would also need to cut the windscreen to make room for the handlebars to turn fully to both sides without hitting the windscreen.
I had already made a new bracket yesterday so todays work was installing/fitting the speedo and bracket to the hood plastics. Some grinding of both the hood and the new bracket were needed to make it fit perfectly.
I drilled out 6 corresponding holes in both the aluminum bracket and hood plastic, the bracket is to be riveted to the hood plastic.
Ready for test install on the sled.
Some additional grinding needed on the bottom of the bracket to make more room for the cables from the bars. This is what it looks like installed in the sled viewed from the drivers position on the seat. Nice
Another pic taken from the side of the sled. I think it's working just great.
Mockup's done. The bracket is ready to go to the painter, will do tomorrow. I need to drill out yet another hole in the hood plastics to make room for the speedo wireing. With the bracket painted in black, I'm ready to start assembling the hood parts. I would also need to cut the windscreen to make room for the handlebars to turn fully to both sides without hitting the windscreen.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE October 16. - Installing my Innovate LC-1 and XD-16 WBO2 system, re-wired to fit my front mount turbo system.
Parts I ordered from Powder Lites are still held up by the Norwegian customs since monday....grrrrr
While frustratingly awaiting the turbo parts arrival I'm finishing off the hood/gauge pod assembly.
The new speedo mounting bracket has to be painted, will do this weekend.
I need a new hole in the hood plastic to mount boost gauge & controller, I have drilled out a 53 millimeter or 2 1/16" hole on the right for it. The left hole is for the Innovate XD-16 WBO2 display. It also need a new hole for the speedo/dash piece wireing, it's done but is not shown in this pic.
Next task was adapting the LC-1 and it's wireing from rearmount to frontmount. With the MCXpress in the rear I had the LC-1 unit close to the turbo in the back, wireing was still more than long enough to reach all the way forward into the nose cone and up the the XD-16 close to the speedo.
I have installed the LC-1 as far forward on the deltabox frame as the sensor and cable allowed for.
Cables from the LC-1 to the XD-16 have been coiled up and strapped to the frame up front in the nose come. I did use some black eletrical tubing where the wireing came close to sharp edges on the frame to prevent rubbing thru the isolation.
First off I split the harness, next I cut all wires to length except the red positive lead, then I grounded green/white/black wires at the LH side bolt hole where the toolbox/cup holer used to be attached, further I grounded the blue wire at the RH side bolt hole. I did not cut the red lead wire and the split harness, now I used the split harness to wrap around the red lead wire for the LC-1 and the wires coming from the ignition key area feeding the electrical fuel pump, finally I soldered the LC-1 red lead wire at the same spot feeding the positive lead for the fuel pump.
Next was connecting the XD-16 to the LC-1. I connected the ground and power wires. Finally I added some connections for easy disconnection of the XD 16 if needed, f.ex. when I have to remove the hood.
Testing and free air calibration remains.
Parts I ordered from Powder Lites are still held up by the Norwegian customs since monday....grrrrr
While frustratingly awaiting the turbo parts arrival I'm finishing off the hood/gauge pod assembly.
The new speedo mounting bracket has to be painted, will do this weekend.
I need a new hole in the hood plastic to mount boost gauge & controller, I have drilled out a 53 millimeter or 2 1/16" hole on the right for it. The left hole is for the Innovate XD-16 WBO2 display. It also need a new hole for the speedo/dash piece wireing, it's done but is not shown in this pic.
Next task was adapting the LC-1 and it's wireing from rearmount to frontmount. With the MCXpress in the rear I had the LC-1 unit close to the turbo in the back, wireing was still more than long enough to reach all the way forward into the nose cone and up the the XD-16 close to the speedo.
I have installed the LC-1 as far forward on the deltabox frame as the sensor and cable allowed for.
Cables from the LC-1 to the XD-16 have been coiled up and strapped to the frame up front in the nose come. I did use some black eletrical tubing where the wireing came close to sharp edges on the frame to prevent rubbing thru the isolation.
First off I split the harness, next I cut all wires to length except the red positive lead, then I grounded green/white/black wires at the LH side bolt hole where the toolbox/cup holer used to be attached, further I grounded the blue wire at the RH side bolt hole. I did not cut the red lead wire and the split harness, now I used the split harness to wrap around the red lead wire for the LC-1 and the wires coming from the ignition key area feeding the electrical fuel pump, finally I soldered the LC-1 red lead wire at the same spot feeding the positive lead for the fuel pump.
Next was connecting the XD-16 to the LC-1. I connected the ground and power wires. Finally I added some connections for easy disconnection of the XD 16 if needed, f.ex. when I have to remove the hood.
Testing and free air calibration remains.
nytroERrider
Expert
WOW, This sled is ridiculously awsome!! I cant wait to see some vids if you get them. Keep up the great work.
Jake
Jake
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE October 17-19. - Cleaning up black plastic parts. Painting the speedo gauge relocation bracket. Installing hood mounting brackets. Installing gauge pod, connecting wireing.
My side panels and front end plastics were shabby looking and in need of cleaning and some Black Crome polish. The Black Crome brings back the shine in the plastic, even better looking than new.
The hood gauge piece did get some as Black Crome as well.
My speedo relocation bracket got some primer before adding paint.
I removed all foam from the hood and side panels.
I had removed the hood mouning bracket.... I've changed my mind about it as it is quite some work to fabricate a hookup like the Apex have. The crossbar was installed.
And then I modified the hood part of the mounting bracket to save as much weight as possible. Cutting out what's not necessary from the hood mounting bracket and removing the foam from the hood and panels netted a weight increase of 190 grams, I can live with that hahaha
Next was installing the modified hood mounting bracket piece to the hood.
When the primer had dried I added black paint to it.
When the paint had dried
I started adding the speedo to the bracket.
Speedo installed.
Wireing thru the new hole I cut.
Wireing connected to the speedo dash piece and the bracket riveted to the hood plastic.
Before mounting the hood plastic and speedo to the hood I had to make room for the Innovate XD-16 WBO2 gauge and Boost gauge.
Next I mounted the hood plastic and speedo to the hood. Then I mounted the windscreen and windscreen plastics.
Done.
Hood seen from the riders perspective.... pretty cool IMO.
Still wainting for turbo parts to get thru the Norwegian customs, MAN they are slow, it's been there since monday morning October 13. I also need a washer to go with the magneto bolt, it's on order. I may start cutting out the seat next time out.... Or I make a stopper for the chocke mechanism keeping the chockes from blowing open under boost.
My side panels and front end plastics were shabby looking and in need of cleaning and some Black Crome polish. The Black Crome brings back the shine in the plastic, even better looking than new.
The hood gauge piece did get some as Black Crome as well.
My speedo relocation bracket got some primer before adding paint.
I removed all foam from the hood and side panels.
I had removed the hood mouning bracket.... I've changed my mind about it as it is quite some work to fabricate a hookup like the Apex have. The crossbar was installed.
And then I modified the hood part of the mounting bracket to save as much weight as possible. Cutting out what's not necessary from the hood mounting bracket and removing the foam from the hood and panels netted a weight increase of 190 grams, I can live with that hahaha
Next was installing the modified hood mounting bracket piece to the hood.
When the primer had dried I added black paint to it.
When the paint had dried
I started adding the speedo to the bracket.
Speedo installed.
Wireing thru the new hole I cut.
Wireing connected to the speedo dash piece and the bracket riveted to the hood plastic.
Before mounting the hood plastic and speedo to the hood I had to make room for the Innovate XD-16 WBO2 gauge and Boost gauge.
Next I mounted the hood plastic and speedo to the hood. Then I mounted the windscreen and windscreen plastics.
Done.
Hood seen from the riders perspective.... pretty cool IMO.
Still wainting for turbo parts to get thru the Norwegian customs, MAN they are slow, it's been there since monday morning October 13. I also need a washer to go with the magneto bolt, it's on order. I may start cutting out the seat next time out.... Or I make a stopper for the chocke mechanism keeping the chockes from blowing open under boost.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
I made a call to UPS Norway at noon today. UPS Norway told me that I had to pay tax and declaration before the package could be forwarded to the final destination. What the .. .. how was I to know. ..the package have been sitting in customs for a week waiting for me to make a call to pay off the taxes and declaration... grrrr.. .. OK UPS Norway couldn't do the job so they redirected me to their customs and declarations department in Sweden. Unluckily all their staff were out when I called at noon. I called back at 2.30 PM and finally I got hold of a nice Swedish lady that could do the job of taking my tax money and forward my package.....the package will depart from UPS customs storage tomorrow morning. I could not get myself to tell her how pissed off I was as she was not the problem, UPS Norway is. I'm happy the payment went thru while on the phone with her. My package will start moving tomorrow morning. I hope.
For other Norwegians up north using UPS as the transporter, please call them right away if your package is not forwarded within noon the next day it arrives in Oslo, or at least when status on the shipment says:
SHIPMENT ON HOLD AWAITING PAYMENT OF DUTY & TAX - then make the call immediately to avoid further delay of your shipment. I've learned the hard way. UPS uses Posten Norge for delivery in the norhtern part of Norway.
Generally UPS does forward the package right away if customs and declarations have been done prior to package arriving in Norway (the nice Swedish lady said so), then UPS will send you an invoice on the tax paid by them.
In my case the package arrived so early that they had not been able to do the declaration and as a cause of that package was placed on halt in their customs storage awaiting tax payment. If they only had called me.. maybe they didn't have my phone# who knows....
OK my package will be on its way tomorrow morning the nice Swedish lady said.
For other Norwegians up north using UPS as the transporter, please call them right away if your package is not forwarded within noon the next day it arrives in Oslo, or at least when status on the shipment says:
SHIPMENT ON HOLD AWAITING PAYMENT OF DUTY & TAX - then make the call immediately to avoid further delay of your shipment. I've learned the hard way. UPS uses Posten Norge for delivery in the norhtern part of Norway.
Generally UPS does forward the package right away if customs and declarations have been done prior to package arriving in Norway (the nice Swedish lady said so), then UPS will send you an invoice on the tax paid by them.
In my case the package arrived so early that they had not been able to do the declaration and as a cause of that package was placed on halt in their customs storage awaiting tax payment. If they only had called me.. maybe they didn't have my phone# who knows....
OK my package will be on its way tomorrow morning the nice Swedish lady said.
Need for Speed 2
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Polish them wrenches its time to geter done HeHe You will soon be there at the finish line in no time to spare because its down right wintery feeling, Good luck buddy
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Thanks Kevin
Will look over my equipment and toos and get ready to wrench the fun part of the project, the turbo install.
I'm done sooner than later and at least in time for the good snow and no later than mid december,.... I hope.
Will look over my equipment and toos and get ready to wrench the fun part of the project, the turbo install.
I'm done sooner than later and at least in time for the good snow and no later than mid december,.... I hope.
freelheeler
Pro
might be interested in your mcx turbo send me some more info thanks
jarlarch@yahoo.com
jarlarch@yahoo.com
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Info sent to your mail accont.
Jan-Ove
rxrider
Jan-Ove
rxrider
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