rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
It will cost you a lot of time and money to have me build yours like I did mine, that's for sure
obr
Lifetime Member
WOW...it's been a while since my last visit to the site...GREAT progress on your sled buddy. Good to se you're using the right guy to get parts from too
So, get it done, and I'll drop my sled of and have you build it for me...
I might be coming over this weekend for the snowmobile show....will make a visit at your place if you're home?
Bull
So, get it done, and I'll drop my sled of and have you build it for me...
I might be coming over this weekend for the snowmobile show....will make a visit at your place if you're home?
Bull
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
I will be at the show on saturday, see you there buddy. Of course we have to visit the Turbo Garage
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE November 20. - Installing track clips.
I bought a new Arctic Cat 136x15x1.25 RipSaw track last spring to replace the RipSaw I've had in there for almost 3 seasons. I had a few studs pull thru and damage my front heat exchanger. I did not care to loose a week of spring riding so I installed the track as it was. It was fully cut but only clipped every third.
I got the Camoplast track clips I ordered from Hi-Performance Engineering in today.
I installed the track clips using a special track clip tool like shown in the pic below. It works from the outside of the track.
Here's what the new Camoplast track clips looks like when installed in the track.
Done, all 72 clips installed.
With the track done I'm ready to start installing the track and drive train.
I have done a few mods to my sled making it slightly heavier, I've installed a new heat shield for the turbo and fully clipped my track, weight savings are now at 40.8 kgs or 89.7 lb.
I bought a new Arctic Cat 136x15x1.25 RipSaw track last spring to replace the RipSaw I've had in there for almost 3 seasons. I had a few studs pull thru and damage my front heat exchanger. I did not care to loose a week of spring riding so I installed the track as it was. It was fully cut but only clipped every third.
I got the Camoplast track clips I ordered from Hi-Performance Engineering in today.
I installed the track clips using a special track clip tool like shown in the pic below. It works from the outside of the track.
Here's what the new Camoplast track clips looks like when installed in the track.
Done, all 72 clips installed.
With the track done I'm ready to start installing the track and drive train.
I have done a few mods to my sled making it slightly heavier, I've installed a new heat shield for the turbo and fully clipped my track, weight savings are now at 40.8 kgs or 89.7 lb.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE November 21. - Preparing for track install. Looking over the drive shaft. Changing brake pads.
Trying to figure out a way to cool the primary clutch....
The 3" 90 degree silicone bend did not fit any good at all. I found a 90 degree silicone cobra bend to test...
Not any good either.... maybe it will work as a scope to transport cold air to cool the turbo and downpipe area ?
Just kidding....
Preparing track install.
I started preparing for the track install by looking over the track. Track was in perfect condition, all I did was to burn off a few loose fiber ends to prevent them ripping out of the track. When done looking over the track I placed it under the sled to have it ready for drive shaft install.
Looking over the drive shaft and sprockets.
When I was about to install the drive shaft I spotted some unexpected wear on the extrovert teeths, the inside of the RH side teeths were worn down about 2 millimeters. I measured the Center to Center between the track openings and then the C to C between the sprocket teeths.... dammit they were 2 millimeters off, too small C to C. I will have to move the RH side sprocket 2 millimeter further to the right to fix the misaligned drive sprockets.
The C to C distance measured was 22.3 centimeters...off by 3 millimeters.
The C to C should have been 22.5-22.6 centimeter. I have to put it in a press to push the misaligned sprocket 2-3 millimeters further to the right.
Changing brake pads.
Start by removing the allen locking bolt using a 5 millimeter allen head wrench. The locking bolt is seen straight above where the banjo bolt connects the brake line to the caliper.
Next is removing the bolt holding the brake pads in place using the same allen wrench. Not shown, forgot to take pic when removing it. When the bolt is removed the brake pads falls out easily.
Remove the leaf spring.
Before you can install new brake pads you will have to open the brake fluid reservoir up at the brake lever on the handle bars. It has to be done in order to let off pressure from the system, and to be able to move the brake pistons away from each other for the install of new brake pads.
- OBS
remember to place rags or whatever underneat the reservoir, BEFORE you open the brake reservoir lid, to prevent brake fluid to spill on your sled, break fluids can be tough on paint and plastics
- OBS
Press the brake pistons apart as far as necessary to install the new brake pads. Install the new brake pads into place, install the leaf spring and install the bolt thru the holes in the brake pads and over the leaf spring holding it down.
Tighten down the bolt and install the locking bolt.
I will have to wait with the brake caliper install until the chain case is installed.
Trying to figure out a way to cool the primary clutch....
The 3" 90 degree silicone bend did not fit any good at all. I found a 90 degree silicone cobra bend to test...
Not any good either.... maybe it will work as a scope to transport cold air to cool the turbo and downpipe area ?
Just kidding....
Preparing track install.
I started preparing for the track install by looking over the track. Track was in perfect condition, all I did was to burn off a few loose fiber ends to prevent them ripping out of the track. When done looking over the track I placed it under the sled to have it ready for drive shaft install.
Looking over the drive shaft and sprockets.
When I was about to install the drive shaft I spotted some unexpected wear on the extrovert teeths, the inside of the RH side teeths were worn down about 2 millimeters. I measured the Center to Center between the track openings and then the C to C between the sprocket teeths.... dammit they were 2 millimeters off, too small C to C. I will have to move the RH side sprocket 2 millimeter further to the right to fix the misaligned drive sprockets.
The C to C distance measured was 22.3 centimeters...off by 3 millimeters.
The C to C should have been 22.5-22.6 centimeter. I have to put it in a press to push the misaligned sprocket 2-3 millimeters further to the right.
Changing brake pads.
Start by removing the allen locking bolt using a 5 millimeter allen head wrench. The locking bolt is seen straight above where the banjo bolt connects the brake line to the caliper.
Next is removing the bolt holding the brake pads in place using the same allen wrench. Not shown, forgot to take pic when removing it. When the bolt is removed the brake pads falls out easily.
Remove the leaf spring.
Before you can install new brake pads you will have to open the brake fluid reservoir up at the brake lever on the handle bars. It has to be done in order to let off pressure from the system, and to be able to move the brake pistons away from each other for the install of new brake pads.
- OBS
remember to place rags or whatever underneat the reservoir, BEFORE you open the brake reservoir lid, to prevent brake fluid to spill on your sled, break fluids can be tough on paint and plastics
- OBS
Press the brake pistons apart as far as necessary to install the new brake pads. Install the new brake pads into place, install the leaf spring and install the bolt thru the holes in the brake pads and over the leaf spring holding it down.
Tighten down the bolt and install the locking bolt.
I will have to wait with the brake caliper install until the chain case is installed.
nytroERrider
Expert
Hey its looking great. At first i looked at the "Air Induction for the clutches and turbo" and i really thought you were going to do something like that. Haha looking great man.
Have you been working on it?
Jake
Have you been working on it?
Jake
kinger
VIP Member
Hey rxrider, thanks again for making a thread with 31 freaking pages, got all they way back to page 4 before I got the chain case refresher I needed for replacing the top gear in my old mans vector! LOL
We need book marks on this thread! Mr Sled where you at? jk lol
Thanks again, a guy could read this entire thread and pretty much build a sled from scratch!
Looking forward to the engine update someday
We need book marks on this thread! Mr Sled where you at? jk lol
Thanks again, a guy could read this entire thread and pretty much build a sled from scratch!
Looking forward to the engine update someday
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
I have not been working much on it lately, too much to do at work these days but will get at it this coming weekend.
Thanks again kinger I may update the front page with an index on where to find what.... gotta remember that, great idea.
Parts from Powder Lites have passed the Norwegian customs, will have them any day this week, just in time for the weekend I hope.
Thanks again kinger I may update the front page with an index on where to find what.... gotta remember that, great idea.
Parts from Powder Lites have passed the Norwegian customs, will have them any day this week, just in time for the weekend I hope.
kinger
VIP Member
In Norway do you have "chiltons" manuals? they are manuals on how to do a engine swap, replace parts, etc for cars/trucks.
Take all these pages put it in a book and sell its as Rxriders manual for $30/ea.
Help you pay for 03 rocketship you have there
Take all these pages put it in a book and sell its as Rxriders manual for $30/ea.
Help you pay for 03 rocketship you have there
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Great idea
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE November 29. - Preview of Powder Lites Stage 3 Intercooler. Installing new PL silicone hoses to the carb rack. Removing MCX oil filter adaptor. Relocating fuel pressure regulator and Innovate LC-1 to make room for the Vortech Race Bypass valve.
I've been away on business (Exchange 2007 courses) for the last week. When home I found that the package from PL had been delivered at my door while away....Yeeeehaaaaaiii - before going to bed friday night I had to unpack to have a look at the IC. I also got the oil return kit and all bolts and Nord Lock washers for installing the turbo and downpipe to the header.
Here's a few pics of the IC.
It's quite large compared to the whimpy MCX IC I had in there earlier.
The IC on top of my firewood storage... MAN it's a large IC. The IC core has 20 tubes, height at 7+ cm or 3 inches, length at approx 30 cm or 1 ft. The inside of the tubes of the PL IC are not straight tubes like the MCX IC, the PL IC core has plenty of cooling fins running the entire length of the tubes to vastly increase the contact area for added cooling effect - GREAT WORK DAVE.
First test install of the IC. I still had the MCX silicone hoses attached to the carbs, they're slightly longer than the PL ones so the IC did not fit at this time. Anyway, this pic should give you an idea of the size of the IC.
Just removed the MCX silicone hoses from the carb rack.
Installed the PL silicone hoses to the carb rack. Relocated the fuel pressure regulator down some by removing a set of aluminium spacers from the MCX install bracket. Removed the Innovate LC-1, it was installed just above the fuel pressure regulator and had to be removed as well to make room for my Vortech race bypass valve.
Finally I removed the MCX oil filter adaptor plate.
I will replace it with a PL oil filter adaptor plate. Then it's time to install the oil feed line, oil return line and water lines for the turbo.
With the PL oil adaptor plate and oil feed line installed I'm ready to install the IC.... I'm very happy about the IC and having most parts at hand to make some headway on my project.
Gotta have a beer
I've been away on business (Exchange 2007 courses) for the last week. When home I found that the package from PL had been delivered at my door while away....Yeeeehaaaaaiii - before going to bed friday night I had to unpack to have a look at the IC. I also got the oil return kit and all bolts and Nord Lock washers for installing the turbo and downpipe to the header.
Here's a few pics of the IC.
It's quite large compared to the whimpy MCX IC I had in there earlier.
The IC on top of my firewood storage... MAN it's a large IC. The IC core has 20 tubes, height at 7+ cm or 3 inches, length at approx 30 cm or 1 ft. The inside of the tubes of the PL IC are not straight tubes like the MCX IC, the PL IC core has plenty of cooling fins running the entire length of the tubes to vastly increase the contact area for added cooling effect - GREAT WORK DAVE.
First test install of the IC. I still had the MCX silicone hoses attached to the carbs, they're slightly longer than the PL ones so the IC did not fit at this time. Anyway, this pic should give you an idea of the size of the IC.
Just removed the MCX silicone hoses from the carb rack.
Installed the PL silicone hoses to the carb rack. Relocated the fuel pressure regulator down some by removing a set of aluminium spacers from the MCX install bracket. Removed the Innovate LC-1, it was installed just above the fuel pressure regulator and had to be removed as well to make room for my Vortech race bypass valve.
Finally I removed the MCX oil filter adaptor plate.
I will replace it with a PL oil filter adaptor plate. Then it's time to install the oil feed line, oil return line and water lines for the turbo.
With the PL oil adaptor plate and oil feed line installed I'm ready to install the IC.... I'm very happy about the IC and having most parts at hand to make some headway on my project.
Gotta have a beer
Wimpy MXC IC - you didn't say that when I bought it - LOL
That PL IC looks awsome - can't wait to hear you fire up that rocket
That PL IC looks awsome - can't wait to hear you fire up that rocket
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Every salesman is lying a wee-bit hahahaha sorry buddy
Yeah - compared to the PL IC the MCX is kinda sorta whimpy.
BTW - I have the small parts ready to ship, my friend have dug up the MCX parts and will be over with them early next week. Will ship asap.
Yeah - compared to the PL IC the MCX is kinda sorta whimpy.
BTW - I have the small parts ready to ship, my friend have dug up the MCX parts and will be over with them early next week. Will ship asap.
Just kidding with you!
Pakage from me didn't go out before friday - sorry buddy - but i have been home all week with a sick kid - and working afternoon shifts. It should be there early next week.
Sorry for dealaying the project!
Pakage from me didn't go out before friday - sorry buddy - but i have been home all week with a sick kid - and working afternoon shifts. It should be there early next week.
Sorry for dealaying the project!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
me kidding as well
You're not delaying anything TT.
After beeing away from wife and kids for a week I didn't feel like doing much this weekend anyway. What I did today is probably all for this weekend.
rxrider
You're not delaying anything TT.
After beeing away from wife and kids for a week I didn't feel like doing much this weekend anyway. What I did today is probably all for this weekend.
rxrider
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